Enzoenvy1 Posted October 14, 2007 Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) I just got my hands on a Gunze Sangyo Ferrari 250 GTO. I am so happy to build this kit as it looks really involved. But as this was an Ebay purchase the owner did not know if any parts were missing. Well, there are a few missing but I can handle it except for the headlight rings. I know that the kit parts were etched metal, but I cannot think about how to redo these like the kit. I have seen many built versions here that had the original kit rings. I need to know if any of you have an idea as to how I can replicate them. I really appreciate anyones time in helping me. Thanks, Jon Edited October 14, 2007 by Enzoenvy1
jbwelda Posted October 15, 2007 Posted October 15, 2007 if they are in the upgrade set that would be a gift from God. personally i look at that and i think if it were me i might try to get away with painting the edge of the clear lense with chrome, or better, BMFing it. maybe even build up a bead of 5 minute epoxy around the clear lense and then BMF/paint it.
Raul_Perez Posted October 15, 2007 Posted October 15, 2007 if they are in the upgrade set that would be a gift from God. personally i look at that and i think if it were me i might try to get away with painting the edge of the clear lense with chrome, or better, BMFing it. maybe even build up a bead of 5 minute epoxy around the clear lense and then BMF/paint it. Yep!! BMF is the way to go. I did this to the headlight rings on the Tamiya 1/12 scale Lola T70 back before there were photoetched parts... 1) Use a pointed scribe or a small drill to mark/dimple the 4 areas where the retaining screws should be on the clear part; 2) BMF the outer perimeter of the lense; 3) Use a new #11 blade to carefully cut the half-round area around the retaining screws; 4) Attach a "spacer" that extends about 1/8" below the tip of your new #11 blade to get the same width all of the way around the lense. (You can figure out how far the spacer should be from the blade if you use a photo for reference measurements...or you can just approximate.) 5) Cut the perimeter area between the retaining screws. 6) Make sure that your perimeter cuts meet the cuts that you made around the retaining screws BEFORE you remove the excess. Good Luck,
Enzoenvy1 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Posted October 16, 2007 Yep!! BMF is the way to go. I did this to the headlight rings on the Tamiya 1/12 scale Lola T70 back before there were photoetched parts... 1) Use a pointed scribe or a small drill to mark/dimple the 4 areas where the retaining screws should be on the clear part; 2) BMF the outer perimeter of the lense; 3) Use a new #11 blade to carefully cut the half-round area around the retaining screws; 4) Attach a "spacer" that extends about 1/8" below the tip of your new #11 blade to get the same width all of the way around the lense. (You can figure out how far the spacer should be from the blade if you use a photo for reference measurements...or you can just approximate.) 5) Cut the perimeter area between the retaining screws. 6) Make sure that your perimeter cuts meet the cuts that you made around the retaining screws BEFORE you remove the excess. Good Luck, Great ideas here I think that will work fine! Thank you all for your time.
jbwelda Posted October 17, 2007 Posted October 17, 2007 >4) Attach a "spacer" that extends about 1/8" below the tip of your new >#11 blade to get the same width all of the >way around the lense. (You can figure out how far the spacer should >be from the blade if you use a photo for >reference measurements...or you can just approximate.) thats a great tip that i always forget when the time comes to implement it. im seriously going to cut this out and post it on my wall. many thanks for reminding me!
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