Pocher Rolls Sedanca

[Cato]

Back to work...

Probably completely unnecessary but; while sanding the windscreen opening in the cowl for paint clearance, I decided I needed something to locate the chrome frame positively in the opening. This would ensure the frame was flush to the cowl surface and allow better gluing area. Painted body color, the flange will make sure the frame has no tiny gaps to the cowl.

Using .005 sheet and a .040 template of the chrome frame perimeter, I cut a 'mask' or flange for the chrome frame to rest on. A sort of stop. The trick was to not make the inner circumference overlap the frame and show. The next trick was to CA that flimsy .005 styrene to the cowl plastic. The final trick was to insure that inner frame (attached to the dashboard) closed up tight to the cowl with the flange sandwiched between.

The big guys that do brass frames don't do this; their fit is perfect first time out. Me, less so. First shot shows the overlap. Second pic from the rear shows how thin .005 is - you can see through it where it meets the cowl. Last photo is the chrome brass frame sitting flush to the cowl frame with no visible gap and no plastic showing around the inner edge.

 

 

 

[sjordan2]

Any thoughts about making the windscreen hinged at the top so it can vent at the bottom?

[Cato]

Any thoughts about making the windscreen hinged at the top so it can vent at the bottom?

Quite a bit before I started actually. But I felt bending, making and soldering a brass frame around a jig I built would be parlor trick enough, at my skill level, never having done it before. I'm satisfied.

Dave Cox, who has built over 90 Pochers, is the man to see for that. I'm at kindergarten level compared to that.

[Codi]

Cato, love the pics you showed on the previous page of the mock-ups you posted previously.  I'm sure they motivate YOU as you continue on your adventure with this build.  I personally have learned a lot from your methods and marveled at the results when you tackle an individual component or address an "issue" that has come up. 

Thanks for sharing with us all.  It's an elegant car. Tim

[Cato]

Thanks for the support Tim. The learning process starts with me. I am pushing my 'envelope' with the harder stuff and I previously didn't have an envelope !

But it's getting close to what I've studied and want it to be.

C

[Cato]

More under skin work...

While preparing to work the door fit and latches, the thought occurred that I could get the body firmly in the correct position and have it survive the numerous on / off cycles needed. So another step back to get that right.

It's important to remember how much the body seen here, is modified from stock Pocher, in overall view. The bottom of the body under the doors trimmed 5mm, the channeling over the frame of 7mm. The stock spacers under the firewall are removed lowering it 7mm and the rear bulkhead also trimmed 5mm and resting flat on the frame. Seen in the interior is the step in the floor which has been raised 7mm from stock. This is the kick-up in the floor where the rear portion of the frame kicks up. The rear seat goes atop that step. This is what allowed the cowl to fit flat on the firewall top.

Earlier in the build I showed the new front body attachment bracket I made. This hole will take the 0-80 bolt and nut that secures the front half. I had 6 holes there before I 'found' the bracket hole beneath it. Thank the stars for Bondo. This is all in addition to the clamps under the body sides which attach it to the floor.:

The new attachment point in the rear was established by making two posts of .250" styrene and epoxying them into the rear corners of the body. They protrude out of the body so they can overlap the frame and be bolted to it. They center the body rear nicely on the chassis too - just happen to be the right spacer dimension on both sides. Also note the cut roof with the stock Pocher ribs removed and the white, .060 styrene doubler on the bulkhead wall. Necessary even on a stock one.:

Here is the attachment with T pin marking the location for the hole in the chassis. I like to use markings (on the yellow tape) to get even locations on both parts and both sides of the car. I heat the T pin to embed a mark in the chassis. Makes a nice starter hole for the drill bit, .054 in this case for 0-80 bolt:

Also like the T pin because the 'handle' end makes a good line-up tool for your markings. This one is dead on. If you get a hole wrong, don't fret. Fill the hole with heated sprue and redrill:

Finally here's the chassis hole drilled and tapped for 0-80 bolt. This all worked to give a square and solid body no matter how many times it's put on and off. NONE of this is necessary for a stock Pocher Rolls build because all the attachment points are designed in. But it wouldn't hurt to do a version of this for a solid build:

Edited April 3, 2016 by Cato

[Cato]

Lesson learned...

I have been beating the dead horse throughout about getting big parts fit correctly before moving on and finishing them. Most of you are justifiably sick of reading that. Well, taking my own advice, I can show you why that's vital for big, four-decade old kits.

After securing the main body as seen just above in its final position, I am tackling the doors and the latching system. But now with the body firmly bolted in place, the doors sit differently than earlier, when I had positioned the body but NOT secured it. Having cut and rejoined the rear of the body and roof plus probable slight warpage, things were different then than now. It is very easy to build a twist into the work with so many alterations.

Seen here is the driver door. I had heat-formed it to match the curve of the floor pan prior and when I stopped, it still needed more to latch without tension. But not now. amazingly it fits about as perfectly as I could want. There is no tape holding it in place; only the hinges at rear.  The gap has been sanded to give .018 clearance for paint and is even all around with maybe the front lower corner needed a hair more:

Slightly ajar, there is an even distance between the door edge and the cowl edge. Again, no tension is evident:

Here the door is just resting in the closed position and the gap at the top only requires the push of a finger to close. The latch will easily hold it flush and closed. About as good as you can hope for. Ironically, the passenger door which I had bent to perfection months ago, now has the lower corner tucked too far in when the latch area is flush. I will revisit that with hot water and correct before moving on:

I strongly urge Pocher classic builders and Rolls builders in particular (due to the curvature of the floor and body sides) to get the main body square and bolted in place before hanging the doors. And the hoods for that matter as well. That's another challenge coming down the road.

 

 

[sjordan2]

(LIKE icon)

[Harry P.]

Do you think that at some point down the road... waaaaaaaay down the road... that you might actually finish this one?

I think the Great Wall of China was built in less time...

[GTJUNIOR]

Do you think that at some point down the road... waaaaaaaay down the road... that you might actually finish this one?

I think the Great Wall of China was built in less time...

Maybe Harry, but the Great Wall is nowhere near  as precisely built as Cato's Rolls. ?

[Cato]

Do you think that at some point down the road... waaaaaaaay down the road... that you might actually finish this one?

I think the Great Wall of China was built in less time...

Only if I had your skills Harry. I'm wearing you guys down huh?? Wasting too much bandwidth?

Don't blame youze. My intention, now that I've gotten to the doors, is to get complete prime and color on this spring as the warmer spraying weather arrives. And the doctor trips recede. No clear though while other cut and paste work gets done - like dicing the hood panels to fit. Then clear and polish. Then cover roof.  Then do headliner, then,,,,    arrrgh.

Tony, I appreciate your faith and very kind thought.

[Twokidsnosleep]

I think that comment qualifies as a "Pocher Beating"

The Great Wall ...... ha ha ha 

Keep plugging away at it at your speed Mr Cato, you are doing just fine

Edited April 11, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Codi]

I follow for the updates Cato.....just being selfish.    Just glad to see you back at it and I'm sure you're excited to get her painted sometime this Spring/Summer.  Still love the colors you've selected.  She's going to be an absolute stunner when all is said and done.  Cheers, tim

[Cato]

A little sparkle...

Something fun for a change; luggage rack #2 back from a bath in nickel plate. Pictures are poor - need to get outside light in. It has a gleam and a glow that is very bright and pleasing. Going under wraps in the storage box with its other sparkly sisters. Good incentive to push on with the hard stuff - which I'm doing.

[Harry P.]

The luggage rack turned out great. Looks like something Marvin should offer...

[Cato]

The luggage rack turned out great. Looks like something Marvin should offer...

I agree Harry. But I think it's too much hand work with more operations and solder than MM has time or desire for. He primarily sells parts cast in bronze and the mold process requires less labor. He has subcontractors for metal, tubing and resin bits.

[Harry P.]

I agree Harry. But I think it's too much hand work with more operations and solder than MM has time or desire for. He primarily sells parts cast in bronze and the mold process requires less labor. He has subcontractors for metal, tubing and resin bits.

The rack itself could be easily cast, maybe the legs cast separately.

[Cato]

The rack itself could be easily cast, maybe the legs cast separately.

Ya think? I'm no casting genius but wouldn't there be mold seams on the main tube sides? They'd have to be filed off before he could have them plated. And I dunno how you'd attach separately cast legs to the main tube.

Don't give MM another thing to cost $125...

 

[Harry P.]

Ya think? I'm no casting genius but wouldn't there be mold seams on the main tube sides? They'd have to be filed off before he could have them plated. And I dunno how you'd attach separately cast legs to the main tube.

Don't give MM another thing to cost $125...

Any cast piece will have a mold seam. It's all about removing it before plating.

Send him the idea and ask for a royalty...

[Cato]

Any cast piece will have a mold seam. It's all about removing it before plating.

Send him the idea and ask for a royalty...

Heh, heh, heh... I don't expect much would come from that. Besides, I've seen racks on some of their customer builds and Marvin is a soldering madman, loves it. Even uses a torch. Think Jorge does too.

Doubt Marv wants or needs my shop class parts...

 

[Zoom]

Looks great.

What´s your idea of luggage, to be placed there?

[Cato]

Thanks Bo. Seriously doubt there will be luggage there. It would conflict with the very low roof which I'd like to feature.

There will probably be leather straps with buckles.

[Cato]

Progress but...

I have finally attacked the finishing of the doors; their contours, mounting and latching mechanism. I have worked daily since the last post but nothing I wish to  to present as accomplished work yet. I have photos to this point and will organize those soon as I get closer to a finished product.

I know that the text book mounting of the doors in the Pocher book takes about a half hour each. As usual with mine, nothing is as Pocher intended or designed, thus the delay.

More soon....

[Zoom]

Looking forward to this!

[Cato]

I am having difficulty (and so is Skip) uploading pics directly into my thread from PB.

I have no difficulty on any other site posting photos from PB directly into threads so something in this software is changing the 'Share  IMG' button from PB.

I hope this gets sorted or I will be unable to continue the thread.

C

 

 

Edited April 19, 2016 by Cato