Pocher Rolls Sedanca

[Twokidsnosleep]

Hmm, weird I got my dancing frog in as a test

Edited April 19, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Cato]

But you have something different wrong;

What's a 'dancing FROM ?????????

[Twokidsnosleep]

Ok smarty pants I fixed it

Auto correct with be the beath of me 

At least I can post pictures 

[sjordan2]

I am having difficulty (and so is Skip) uploading pics directly into my thread from PB.

I have no difficulty on any other site posting photos from PB directly into threads so something in this software is changing the 'Share  IMG' button from PB.

I hope this gets sorted or I will be unable to continue the thread.

C

 

 

My problem is simply not being able to copy my PB images. When I place my cursor in the IMG field, I get "BLOCKED PLUG-IN" in the box. No problem uploading images to my albums. Tech support isn't helping.

Edited April 20, 2016 by sjordan2

[GTJUNIOR]

Sounds like a Internet browser issue?

[sjordan2]

Sounds like a Internet browser issue?

PB recommended switching to Google Chrome, which didn't work any better than Safari for me, but Firefox works OK. I'm in a constant back-and-forth with PB and browsers upgrades, between their new systems that  no longer support my iMac, and my upgrades to catch up with them. I am now totally maxed out for my operating system and memory.

Edited April 20, 2016 by sjordan2

[Cato]

Creeping up on the doors...

I have been steadily working on the doors and realized I needed to finalize and size the inner panel because one thing leads to another. Hinges, latches and thicknesses are the big concerns. To take a 'break' from nerve wracking stuff I got the comfy side in near finished state.

The main pleated panel was made nearly a year ago. In an effort to get the door as thin as possible (the window frames will make them .093 thicker than stock) I made a new thinner sheet backer of .015 styrene. I mounted the pleat section, carpet kick panel and trim strip permanently. The top wood cap and the thin leather fill strip are just placed. The design of the trim will hopefully match the rear side panel shown here. The top cap will be slotted to accept the frames and glass when I get that far.

I shot a light clear acrylic on the trim; did not want the syrupy clear gloss of new. After all, this baby is slightly scruffy most everywhere.

[Cato]

Forgot to mention; soon to come are the chrome window winder and inner door handle. I'm debating an armrest or small map pocket too.

[Zoom]

This is nice!

I like your way to mixed different colors and material.
Some chrome details make it shine even more.

[Plasticfanatic]

This looks MAGNIFICENT, the fit and finish is superb, cant wait to see it with all the other detail!

This model when finished will be a stunner from all angles.

[Cato]

A tough choice...

Although not posting for a week, work has continued - with some life interruptions along the way. I had come to a crossroads with door mounting and needed to rethink the problem. A quick review; here is the passenger side door at the time the sweep cladding was added. Note it is taped shut. The compound curves needed to match the body and cowl were very difficult to get right. It was necessary to heat bend the door (in hot water) continuously to get the upper front corner (where the latch holds it closed against the cowl) so that there is no tension or strain on the latch:

After much debate, I concluded that bending the door had reached its limits - so I must scratch build a new door. It needed to be a thinner shell and must have the curvatures built in, not heat-warped in. So after much testing I decided on a .030 thick door skin with the .020 cladding added on top. This was pliable enough to get curvature:

But how to hold the shape? The answer became brass tubing. 3/32 rectangular tube was bent to match the contour of the rocker panel (door bottom edge) and a straight tube was added to the leading edge because that's how the cowl is. I still needed to get the latch close to the cowl at the top. But realized instead of heat, the secret would be to twist the bottom tube near the front edge. That canted the top edge inward:

Here are views of the inside showing the latch and window frames in test position:

But as usual with me, each solution brings a new problem. The window frames are 3/32 thick channel and Pocher never designed their doors to accommodation that added thickness. Although my new one is thinner, there is still a bit too much thickness. With the door now comfortably latched, the vent window is too far inboard in relation to the windscreen frame. The gap between can be seen in these shots. It should not be flush to the outer side but overlap by about half. So more thinking to come. Including making a new door (yes, again) but with a slot in the .030 to sink the latch into. The .020 cladding would then cover that slot and the frames would become .030 closer to the outside. Remains to be seen...

 

[Zoom]

I´m impressed!
Not much left, of the Pocher body.

 

[sjordan2]

Wow. Good idea on the brass rod for curvature, plus the skill to make it work.

[Cato]

A nice treat...

With some interruptions, work has proceeded on the door. But as always, planning other associated areas of the build make for parallel tasks to solve before you get there. One such area has been the body paint. Now with favorable weather, I'd like to get the body in color so that the roof can be covered so that the headliner can be installed. When I have a total solution to the doors, that will begin in earnest.

Before covering the roof, provision for the Landau Irons must be finalized. Months ago I had purchased the MMC irons which are seen here and are lovely. However, when I bought them I did not account for the fact that my altered roof is now 13 mm lower in front and 4 mm in the rear. A recent trial fit showed that the MMC bars are too long from each mounting point. And their elegant curvature made them actually stand off the roof and beltline in extreme fashion:

Making paper templates from printed photos and a copy machine, I mock-up different sizes and discovered that 107 mm would be far better in straight line between the mount points. here is a slightly too small one at 105 mm. Notice too the the curvature of the ends is reduced to not protrude above the roof:

Deciding that making these was beyond my primitive brass skills, I again contacted David Cox through his site for custom work. You may remember that he made the wonderful running board strips which in chrome, are glorious. David understood my needs and by sending a dimensioned photo, set to work  Shortly  after I received these bars 'to try'. They are not cast as MMC's are but are actual bent brass bar, filed and shaped, with tubes soldered to the ends and washers soldered to the centers to form actual pivots. If I had a drophead coupe, these would actually work on a folding top. All that remains is for me to fashion stand-offs from tube which go into the roof and belt line:

Needless to say, they are perfect and fit exactly as I hoped. They also have a different but elegant shape which suits my car's altered profile exactly. Seen here, taped in place, I'm very pleased. David sent them with a basic nickel finish but will clean them up and send for chrome now that we know they work. For custom work not available from the other Pocher suppliers, I urge you to contact Cox through his site for anything you want or need.:

http://www.detailedmodelcars.com/index.htm

EDIT; I AM SORRY TO SAY THAT THE SITE HAS AGAIN FAILED TO INSERT THE ACTUAL PHOTOS  INSTEAD OF THE LINKS. THE BUG IN THE SOFTWARE HAS APPARENTLY NOT BEEN ADDRESS BY DAVE AMBROSE YET.

 

 

[Zoom]

Cato, great work and problem solving, nice new details!

[Harry P.]

I posted your photos. You keep making the same mistake... you're posting the Photobucket "DIRECT" link instead of the "IMG" link.

[Twokidsnosleep]

IMG in the list of "share your photo". It is the bottom of the four boxes

What is that saying about old dog and new tricks.......

 

[Harry P.]

The funny thing is, sometimes he does it right, and sometimes not!

[Harry P.]

Cato... you are posting the Direct link, you need to be posting the IMG link. You'll know you copied and pasted the correct link because the link will begin and end with "URL." If the link you copied and pasted here begins with "http," that's the wrong one!

[Twokidsnosleep]

The funny thing is, sometimes he does it right, and sometimes not!

I just couldn't resist...I expect many "Pocher Beatings" in retaliation for this post

Edited May 11, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Cato]

Harry, after posting an explicit and lengthy reply to you post, and hitting 'submit', I just got this:

 

This is very frustrating, The BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH software doesn't do the same thing twice.

 

[Cato]

Harry, after posting an explicit and lengthy reply to you post, and hitting 'submit', I just got this:

 

This is very frustrating, The BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH software doesn't do the same thing twice.

 

That's NOT what I got. I got an ERROR 404 page with the bad face on it.

[Harry P.]

I don't know what to tell you, other than I think the problem is on your end.

I had no problem clicking on the links you posted, which took me to your Photobucket image... where I copied the IMG info and posted it here. Worked perfectly. The fact that it works for me but not for you suggests that the problem is on your end, and not a PB problem or a problem with this site.

[Cato]

I don't know what to tell you, other than I think the problem is on your end.

I had no problem clicking on the links you posted, which took me to your Photobucket image... where I copied the IMG info and posted it here. Worked perfectly. The fact that it works for me but not for you suggests that the problem is on your end, and not a PB problem or a problem with this site.

I just made another reply and got 404 when I submitted. Now I can't communicate.

[Harry P.]

Have you tried using a different browser?