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Posted

Beautiful work, as always, and as always, your wheels really make a fantastic contribution to the realism of the model. The dash wood is also entirely believable...just beautiful.

Posted

Thanks for your comments!

Once again, a spectacular piece of work. The wood parts of the interior are stunning. The kit wire wheels in this kit are better than the Aurora kits you cite, but your custom wheels change the game again. Your paint is awesome and downplays the problems with metallics at this scale -- the only other color that works well for me is a dark red, as seen on Wayne Carini's "Chasing Classic Cars" show on the Velocity channel cable TV here in the US.

Absolutely stunning work!!

Love the interior

Paint is very scale, what did you use on that?

And the wire wheels ,.. of course look awesome!! (really must try that)

Cheers

From my own experience I am convinced that the unrealistic out-of-scale appearance of metallics on so many model pictures is not a paint problem but a lighting problem.

I always use Humbrol or Revell enamel metallics on my models. Therefore the reason why my metallic paintworks do not look out-of-scale is definitely not the use of sophisticated paints.

Experience taught me that only lighting the model directly generates the out-of-scale effect on photos, no matter if you use natural or artificial light. Light the model indirectly and there should never be any out-of-scale appearance of metallics.

  • If you prefer taking your pictures in daylight wait for cloudy weather or at least leave direct sunlight. I took some of my nicest pictures on clear summer days a few hours before sunset when shadows grow and light is already diffuse.

  • I prefer, however, photographing under artificial light. I made a crude rack on my photographing table (use inexpensive plastic tubes or wooden bars from a house improvement store) and threw a white bedsheet over it to form a tent (professional photographers use something similar). Leave a small gap for you and your camera to peep into the tent. Illuminate the tent from the inside. Make sure that the model is hit only by indirect light reflected by the white cloth but not from any direct light. I use 2 or 3 energy saver bulbs (daylight). Depending on your camera contrast and colours may become faint but you can compensate this on your computer easily.

Have a try!

Keep in mind that this is true only for metallics. For solid paints (=non-metallics) I mostly use direct lighting.

Posted

I've seen quite a few 1:1's of these and your build is VERY convincing. The interior looks so real and your chrome work is spotless.

I can see why it still has first row status in your collection!

Posted

Hi Jurgen- I love that old Jag! Great work, you really made the kit come alive...

the only other color that works well for me is a dark red, as seen on Wayne Carini's "Chasing Classic Cars" show on the Velocity channel cable TV here in the US.

I saw that episode and that car made me hold my breath! Because...

IMG_1559-vi.jpg

I own this one in Carnival Red. The minute I saw this car I had to have it!

Posted

Thanks for your comments!

From my own experience I am convinced that the unrealistic out-of-scale appearance of metallics on so many model pictures is not a paint problem but a lighting problem.

I always use Humbrol or Revell enamel metallics on my models. Therefore the reason why my metallic paintworks do not look out-of-scale is definitely not the use of sophisticated paints.

Experience taught me that only lighting the model directly generates the out-of-scale effect on photos, no matter if you use natural or artificial light. Light the model indirectly and there should never be any out-of-scale appearance of metallics.

  • If you prefer taking your pictures in daylight wait for cloudy weather or at least leave direct sunlight. I took some of my nicest pictures on clear summer days a few hours before sunset when shadows grow and light is already diffuse.

  • I prefer, however, photographing under artificial light. I made a crude rack on my photographing table (use inexpensive plastic tubes or wooden bars from a house improvement store) and threw a white bedsheet over it to form a tent (professional photographers use something similar). Leave a small gap for you and your camera to peep into the tent. Illuminate the tent from the inside. Make sure that the model is hit only by indirect light reflected by the white cloth but not from any direct light. I use 2 or 3 energy saver bulbs (daylight). Depending on your camera contrast and colours may become faint but you can compensate this on your computer easily.

Have a try!

Keep in mind that this is true only for metallics. For solid paints (=non-metallics) I mostly use direct lighting.

Thank you for that

White Bedsheet,..DOH!..

I was racking my 1/2 brain, what I could use.... while lying on them

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Posted

Beautifully done! So crisp and sharp... the foil work is practically flawless!

And that dash... amazing what you have accomplished there.

i agree. Jürgen, this Jag is a w e s o m e . Your colorchoice is so beautiful....if I think about mine in the stash...uh. :blink: ...i think, i must practice more years...b e a u t i f u l

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