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Posted

HEEEELLLLLPPP my custom exhaust is not Turing out so well trying to build a flowmaster style system but it seems that there's a huge space from the exhaust ports on the rear bumper to the mounting point

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Posted

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Here ya go. I used silver solid core lead free solder. 3mm which is about the same as 3 inch tailpipes in scale. Roughly bent it up same as stock pipe. Drilled the slash cut end. I would paint that black inside if it were on a model. Measured where kit hole was for mount and figured out length. Added a pin to mount in muffler. Took me 10 mins tops.

Posted

Also the 93 cobra bumper needs help. See where I taped? All that below has to go. They quickly added that to get the look. Here is how to roughly fix it in 5 minutes. Lol. Cut that off. The lightly recut the cutouts in higher up. Tip needs to be shorter but you get the idea?post-8987-0-05091100-1399329128_thumb.jppost-8987-0-58287900-1399329156_thumb.jppost-8987-0-58100200-1399329172_thumb.jp

Hope that helps but now you have put a 93 cobra on my bench....

Posted

Looks better. Revell got this bumper sooooo wrong. The cutouts should barely infringe on that lower lip. Lx tips were used on the cobra. You can see how it should look as on this beautypost-8987-0-92982100-1399335709_thumb.jp

Posted (edited)

Jeremy, use solid rod instead. Much easier to cold bend. Don't use a lighter or open flame. Use hot water or steam from a boling tea kettle. Make sure that you take precautions as you can easily burn yourself with steam. I used the steam method to fabricate the pipes on my Abarth. It's 1/10th but the technique still applies. (I hope you don't mind my posting the pic)

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With solid rod you won't run the risk of deforming as you would with tube. :D

BTW, the rear valance on that Mustang is correct. Consequently, the tips on the factory pipes pointed down. There was no cut-out.

Edited by mikevillena

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