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What type and brand of rattle can primer do you use?


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Thanks James (jwrass) for the heads-up on the Martin Senour primers. I paint 1:1 high-end stuff too, and I've noticed the same problems with most of the rattle-can primers you mention. Even Duplicolor tends to clog the paper, even if wet-sanded. I've been compensating just fine, but I'll definitely give the NAPA primers a try.

Do NAPA primers bond well with all paints or even testors rattle can paints? Being said I have a napa in walking distance from me lol and I have some model masters grey primer I never used yet let me know before I hit an error mark?

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Thanks James (jwrass) for the heads-up on the Martin Senour primers. I paint 1:1 high-end stuff too, and I've noticed the same problems with most of the rattle-can primers you mention. Even Duplicolor tends to clog the paper, even if wet-sanded. I've been compensating just fine, but I'll definitely give the NAPA primers a try.

I found the answers my apologies

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In my opinion primer is primer. I think that that the real difference is in the viscosity. Just remember that scratch filler will also fill panel lines and emblems. Add paint, clear coat and soon no panel lines

Out of all the primers I have used that cheap Wal Mart ($1:09) is the best. I also like that Krylon Dual Paint and Primer it comes out flat and is a very good. I use the white quite a lot.

Mike

I think you need to tell us what paints you are using over this. Are you using cheap Wally paint and other hardware store paint for your final finishes? Hobby paints like Testors regular line, their laquers or Tamiya paint? Or what will automotive sprays like Plastikote or Duplicolor do over that primer?

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Tom,

You make some great points!!!! Mike 1017 post I didn't quite understand so I didn't respond. There are so many different primers out their for different applications it's hard to keep count. To me other than proper prep of the sub straight the application and type of primer you use is the most important part of the paint process. A bad foundation equals bad finish coats.

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  • 3 months later...

I plan on using rust-oleum automobile primer. It's wet sandable.will this stuff melt the plastic?

It's basically the same as the Duplicolor and Plasticoat sandable primers (I have some of each in stock). As noted several times before, whether it will craze the plastic depends entirely on the particular plastic. It will ruin some, and not hurt others.

TEST ON THE ACTUAL PLASTIC FROM THE KIT YOU WANT TO PAINT...FIRST.

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I'm using Walmart Color Place Gray. Cheap, thin, dries hard and smooth, and so far has stood up to everything I've thrown at it. What's not to like? They have a flat white in the line they don't call a primer, but should make a good one. I've only used it over the Gray Primer, haven't tried it over a dark plastic on its own yet.

The VERY BEST primer I've ever used is the Model Car World airbrush stuff, but it's a bit expensive and inconvenient to get. LOVELY stuff, though.

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  • 2 years later...

Try the Napa Colorline brand labeled primer. Part # DC540. Pay no attention to the application instructions on the back of the can, as they read like it's an enamel due to the recoating times. It's a lacquer based though. You can practically watch it dry as your spraying it. It can be dry/wet sanded in 10-15 mins. Plus, it's only like $4.50 a can. Hope this helps. The primer jwrass was referring to is very good as well. But you can't go wrong with the Napa brand. It's in a white can with blue and black writing. 

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