Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) The other thing I was going to add is that in the last couple of years, I've been using these AK-INTERACTIVE products exclusively because they are safe and fun to use, not to mention they get the builder excellent results. Edited February 10, 2012 by Dr. Cranky
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Good advice, Art. Too often we see "weathered" models where the rust or dirt or wear are applied in ways or places that wouldn't happen in the "real world." I've seen "rusted" Corvette models... Like on the seat of a dirt-track car? I've seen that detail on a number of models- you'd think the driver's body would block most of the mud and dirt chunks from getting onto the seat.
Cato Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) I'd like to see a new Hornet done as a Nascar racer with Daytona's sand up the sides and on the wheels. Need super-fine sand for that! That brings up another point. All the Hornets I've seen built on this site are beautifully done. 'Over-restored' would be the 1:1 term. They have flawless, bright paint that the originals never had. The 50's enamels had gloss but never the depth of our modern paints. I intentionally did the GT without color sanding and gloss (but you've got to lay down blemish-free paint to do that) , just like the 1:1's. Gives the paint a 'toned-down', functional appearance. Sometimes you want a more true to production finish and just deleting the gloss coats eliminates the need to 'add' weathering. Look at today's 1:1 street cars and the cleanest ones will have slightly dulled, brake-dusted rims, faintly brownish sidewalls, and road dust on the lower body and across the rear. Even a mild haze on the window insides. Those pigments or really careful airbrushing can achieve that subtle effect. It heightens the sense of realism for the model viewer. Edited February 10, 2012 by Cato
Harry P. Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 That brings up another point. All the Hornets I've seen built on this site are beautifully done. 'Over-restored' would be the 1:1 term. That's because the vast majority of today's Hudson builders weren't around when the car was in production. What they see now are photos of restored cars, and they use that as a reference point. Restored cars are almost always "better than new," and most restored Hudsons are no exception.
Harry P. Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 I continue to be more impressed by this forum. Starting a topic such as this in most other locations will get you burned alive by someone somehow being offended. Oh, believe me... we have a few of those "easily offended" types here. You'll "meet" them sooner or later. Maybe not necessarily in this thread.. but they're out there...
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 I'd like to see a new Hornet done as a Nascar racer with Daytona's sand up the sides and on the wheels. Need super-fine sand for that! That brings up another point. All the Hornets I've seen built on this site are beautifully done. Not anymore... And yes, this would be an example of the more extreme side of weathering.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 LOL, Harry, I think you are right . . . and Tom, sometimes all it takes is a single image to really set them off in the wrong direction!
Junkman Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Not anymore... And yes, this would be an example of the more extreme side of weathering. Why? It still looks being road legal.
Cato Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 That's because the vast majority of today's Hudson builders weren't around when the car was in production. OK-this "easily offended" type just got offended... Just 'cus I WAS around when Hornets were babies. I rode around in a lot of 'mouse-fur' seats in the day...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Dave is right, both lines of weathering products will provide you with endless hours of fun and possibilities. Here's a build done with MIG PRODUCTS: And here's one done with AK-INTERACTIVE PRODUCTS:
Cato Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Not anymore... And yes, this would be an example of the more extreme side of weathering. Chuck, A very perceptive and cool build. Aside from the obvious 'Hornet' body paint, the weathered details show extreme neglect but are not over-done. The dulled chrome nose, cowl rust and especially the missing chrome spear with holes visible in the metal are great touches.
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks! I was trying to make the 'Hornet' paint job look as if it was peeling off an original green paint job. A mostly straight car that had seen a LOT of hard road use, mostly. Oh, there's this one- phantom pickup, stripped the chrome, and went out of my way to apply paint on it that was glossy, but not overly shiny... Can ya tell I'm rather fond of step-down Hudsons, and scale replicas of same?
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 You are definitely on fire with these Hudson, Chuck. I think you've single-handedly bought out the store. Which is great for us. Keep feeding us the eye candy.
Guest Dr. Odyssey Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 I see a lot of weathered models that the person shows his lack of knowledge about how the real car was constructed. Like removing the chrome trim and adding holes. Many cars don't have holes, they have clips for example. Or removing door handles without adding in the stamped detail or what you would see inside. I saw a '69 Camaro a guy weathered and rusted up the beauty rings on the wheels. They don't rust. He also rusted the windshield frame, another non-rusting item. Yes, he even rusted the the spoiler... But it won the contest. I guess the judges were as smart as he was.
Guest Johnny Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Would make a great new section for a web sight!
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 David, I think it all depends on the individual subject. For years I thought that chromed trim around windshields and in particular on bumpers didn't rust, but they most certainly do, perhaps not as fast as the rest of the body, but they do rust. Here's one of my favorite examples in my "rust" reference archives: It's up to each individual builder to research and try to understand how cars really rust out there in nature.
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 I see a lot of weathered models that the person shows his lack of knowledge about how the real car was constructed. Like removing the chrome trim and adding holes. Many cars don't have holes, they have clips for example. Or removing door handles without adding in the stamped detail or what you would see inside. I saw a '69 Camaro a guy weathered and rusted up the beauty rings on the wheels. They don't rust. He also rusted the windshield frame, another non-rusting item. Yes, he even rusted the the spoiler... But it won the contest. I guess the judges were as smart as he was. Proper research of your chosen subject is an absolute MUST. Not only spotting common rust patterns on 1:1 vehicles (I can close my eyes and picture the rust spots on '80-97 Ford F-series pickups and fullsize Broncos, so no research needed for me there!), but also knowing what parts are made from what material. That Tamiya Jeep Wrangler built as a beater would look mighty strange with rusted-through fender flares, for instance! (That would be akin to the rusty Camaro spoiler you mentioned). It never ceases to amaze me how some guys just prefer to 'wing it' when a ten or fifteen minute Google image search can bring up more images than you'll ever need of what you want to find in most cases. All you have to do is look at examples of your chosen subject to get a feel of how the vehicle deteriorates over time. No two cars will age in exactly the same way, of course, so there's still a little bit of creative wiggle room for you there, but ignoring the basics spoils the whole effect. I never have judged a contest, and I never will, but if I had been a judge at that particular show, I'd have walked right past that Camaro upon seeing the rusty spoiler.
Harry P. Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 It depends what the "chrome" trim is made of. Sometimes the "chrome" trim is actually stainless steel, which doesn't rust.
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 It depends what the "chrome" trim is made of. Sometimes the "chrome" trim is actually stainless steel, which doesn't rust. And sometimes the 'chrome' is anodized aluminum, which only dulls. It can be stained and streaked by rust from surronding steel parts, but aluminum doesn't rust, anodized or not.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Proper research of your chosen subject is an absolute MUST. Not only spotting common rust patterns on 1:1 vehicles (I can close my eyes and picture the rust spots on '80-97 Ford F-series pickups and fullsize Broncos, so no research needed for me there!), but also knowing what parts are made from what material. That Tamiya Jeep Wrangler built as a beater would look mighty strange with rusted-through fender flares, for instance! (That would be akin to the rusty Camaro spoiler you mentioned). It never ceases to amaze me how some guys just prefer to 'wing it' when a ten or fifteen minute Google image search can bring up more images than you'll ever need of what you want to find in most cases. All you have to do is look at examples of your chosen subject to get a feel of how the vehicle deteriorates over time. No two cars will age in exactly the same way, of course, so there's still a little bit of creative wiggle room for you there, but ignoring the basics spoils the whole effect. I never have judged a contest, and I never will, but if I had been a judge at that particular show, I'd have walked right past that Camaro upon seeing the rusty spoiler. Chuck, although I agree with your comments completely, I also think for folks starting out, getting the technique right is more important than accuracy. At least for folks wanting to practice on scrap kits they might have handy.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 A lot of after market chrome for those early 50s and 60s cars are so cheap they start to pit right away.
Guest Johnny Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Virgil if that 57 was two tone blue I swear it would be the car that sat in my great uncles front yard for 20 years!
Dr. Cranky Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks, Johnny, the Tri-Five Chevys all make great candidates for weathering, and for that matter so do the 40s Fords too.
Chuck Most Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Hmmmmmmmmmm.... Now, that one looks familiar. Wonder where I've seen that '37...
Guest Dr. Odyssey Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 One thing that has always caught my eye and interest is looking at the weather/wear/rust patterns on real vehicles. I have found some that defy logic and would certainly be suspect if not substanciated with documentation. I recently saw a old rusty truck with what appeared to be the perfect dry lake bed pattern in the fully rusted hood. I have no idea how it could have formed, but it looked cool. Should have taken a picture. The Camaro has the anodized aluminum as Chuck said. I fully disagree about having the "getting the technique right is more important than accuracy" aspect Vigil. Without accuracy or at least a stereotypical perspective it will look bad for many of the reasons being discussed. In fact it is an example of the possible mindset of the builder (and judges) of the aforementioned Camaro. It looked ridiculous, but the techniques were sound, just applied to the wrong parts. Why put in the effort when just a little more research can make a huge improvement? Unless you just want play in the dirt... LOL
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