kiwi Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hi, This might look finished but there's still a couple of things to go (that's why I'm posting here in workbench). This is my first attempt at a truck (previously done a couple of WWI aircraft recently) and other odds and sods about 30years ago. This is pretty much out of the box but I have taken some liberties with the decal placement as (1) the instructions don't give you much help and (2) I have no idea where they would go on a real truck! haha. This is a mockup with the sleeper... I have a couple of questions though (not being all that familiar with big rigs): 1) How many brake lines should this have and what colour? I think I have seen trucks with 2 and some with 3? 2) Also where do they snake back to? Somewhere under the cab or engine bay? 3) The chrome luberfiner (oil cooler?) on the left side - should that have a couple of hoses coming out of the bottom? 4) Any tips on decal/placard placement would be appreciated (although probably too late for this build), especially all the number plate variants etc (I am in New Zealand so obviously don't see these around every day). Thanks for your help And one more (minor) one - they say paint the thing that holds the brake lines a brass colour which looks cool but just curious - in real life that big pole wouldn't all be brass would it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Nice Star ! The pole you mention is nicknamed a "pogostick" and is also called a hose tenna. It would be brass color (the color notations on the instructions were prepared by me), the tenna really isn't brass. They could also be chromed or painted chassis color. The trailer hoses would be two air and one electrical line. They typically route under the cab to the air system, the instrument panel controls and the engine. In the old-days, all the trailer connections would be black. The Luberfiner (that's a brand name for an oil filter) would have 2 hoses coming from the bottom (intake and return) that run from the oil system on the engine. License plates until the mid 1980's in the USA and Canada would be a-plenty on the front of the truck. Cross-country trucks could have a dozen or so on the front. More typical would be 3 or 4 plus a "bingo card" plate (the one with the little colored rectangles). The front bumper and front of the fenders below the headlamps were good for mounting plates. Since your truck is the NorthWest trucking, you could probably get away with the Washington and British Columbia plates. I'm glad to see your cab and hood lined up. The alignment can be tricky with this kit (same for the Diamond Reo and White Road Boss). Here's my version - looking very similar to yours but really dirty. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Hey thanks Tim, Soooo that's your truck - I was using that for reference on my build - cheers. Yeah I had to jiggle the cab a bit to get it to fit properly. I enjoyed the build overall only tricky parts I found were the fitting of the hood/hinges and fitting the mirrors. One other thing I noticed, I found the rear axles way too long so had to trim them down. Thanks again for the info - thats a big help. I'll be able to finish her off now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bryan Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Great job on your first truck, I do hope you build a few more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewd Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Steven, very nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yeah, some of the metal axles have come out way too wide. It is almost automatic for me to trim them anymore. Even on a few original AMT kits they were too wide. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hessel Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Soooo that's your truck - I was using that for reference on my build - cheers. When it comes to Peterbilt Tim is the specialist . Your model looks real good for a first time builder of trucks. I'm from Holland and in our country US trucks are very rare. This is due to weight regulations. Hessel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camaro68 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Looks great nice job on the "star" keep them coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilrathy10 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Awesome work for your first truck...You display an array of skills with this kit....It looks very good...And you'd be well advised to listen to Tim....His site has an incredible selection of quality builds...Keep it up, Man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) WOW well done thats cool for a first rig build keep it up . Just as a little tip you may want to paint the inside of your sleeper in a dark colour this will stop that opake look when you look through the windows Edited January 11, 2013 by Doobie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 Thans for all the comments guys - I appreciate it. Doobie - great tip! Only thing is I glued the sleeper on yesterday so I don't have access to the inside (@#$%^*&.......) I just went out and had a look and yes it looks like poo with the clear windows and white interior (can't believe I didn't notice it before). I think I'll try and 'smoke' up those widows somehow with varnish or nail polish or something - any tips? Apart from that it's pretty much finished, just got to put the ac unit on and 'plumb' it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr mopar Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Looks real good,another tip sand your tires makes them more realistic. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 A little trick Ive used once of twice is to get some blank film negatives cut the film to the size of your window and then get some wood glue PVA and stick the film on the outside of your window . This solves both probs of not being able to get in to the sleeper and gives you tinted windows P/S make sure you use the shiny side facing out on you film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Doobie you're a legend mate! great tip on the window tint using old film negative (I had to search the 'digital' house but eventually found some). All done, so published a few photo's over here http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69201 Thanks again to everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Red Posted December 9, 2019 Share Posted December 9, 2019 Hey guys I am currently building my first model. I am wondering if you guys can give me some good tips on a couple things what kind a glue/cement did you use how did you get the paint to come out so darn good!! We’re there any tools you used to help building it? and any tips you found while building it. Thank you ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.