reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hello to everyone. I am very new to airbrushing, I am no atist by any means. I have been putting model cars together for about 4 months now, and never used an airbrush gun. I recently bought two guns --- a Paasche VL and a Badger 350, and was also given a Matco 150-IL....... However I have no idea if these guns are for a more experienced artist, and if these are mainly for detail, but this is what i am trying to accomplish....... i just want to paint the outside shell of a model car, and have it look good. I hand brush all the smaill detail parts for the time beng. I use the basic Testors and model master paint, all acrylic. i'm not trying to get fancy just yet with two tones, or anything detailed just yet, just one color. Can someone receommend which one of three airbrush guns I have listed above is the best to work with with as I learn, or maybe i should buy a 4th one. Any and all advice would be very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Doug, the Paasche should serve you well if all you want it to apply a nice coat of paint. Many of us here use the Paasche H with very good results. The way to approach is not to be fearful of it. Practice on scrap styrene and you'll start getting good results soon enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psychographic Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 The VL is bulletproof and a great beginner airbrush. It is available as a 1, 3 , or 5. 1 being the finest tip, 3 being the mid and 5 for heavy. For spraying bases, I would suggest the 5 tip, needle and aircap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 And i'm guessing enamels are the way to go? i get so comfused with the mixxing ratio...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Doug, I've read that a 2:1 thinner/paint ratio is what you should use. And you don't need a specific paint--use whatever you feel most comfortable with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 MCM Ohana, what does 2:1 thinner/paint ratio mean exactly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhs856 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) MCM Ohana, what does 2:1 thinner/paint ratio mean exactly? I believe that for Testors/Model Masters enamels the ratio is 2 parts paint to one part thinner. (I use lacquer thinner per Donn Yost's suggestion) Example: Dump 2 jars of paint into a larger jar. Fill one of the paint jars with thinner and dump that in too. Shake and spray. Edited February 7, 2012 by rhs856 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Randall, thank you for that breakdown..... i was wondering if their was a difference between paint thinner, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, airbrush thinner, or paint thatsimply states on the label already reduced. all this confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I believe that for Testors/Model Masters enamels the ratio is 2 parts paint to one part thinner. (I use lacquer thinner per Donn Yost's suggestion) Example: Dump 2 jars of paint into a larger jar. Fill one of the paint jars with thinner and dump that in too. Shake and spray. I always though it was 2 parts thinner 1 part paint It's always flowed fine for me like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psychographic Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Randall, thank you for that breakdown..... i was wondering if their was a difference between paint thinner, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, airbrush thinner, or paint thatsimply states on the label already reduced. all this confusing. Paint Thinner could be anything from Lacquer Thinner to Mineral Spirits. Lacquer Thinner is almost like a universal thinner in that it will work with vatious types of paint. I've never used an Airbrush Thinner, so I won't comment on that. As for Mineral Spirits, I think it's useless, it has no bite to it and takes forever to dry. It will however give a nice shine when dry. If you're sparaying Lacquer, stick to Lacquer Thinner, Enamel Reducer and Mineral Spirits can curdle some lacquers, rather than thin them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
car-man666 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 for my experience ,i always thin my paints to the consistance of milk, so that the ratios sometimes gets confusing, get a glass of milk and a spoon ,and copy you're paint like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmagiclives Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 for my experience ,i always thin my paints to the consistance of milk, so that the ratios sometimes gets confusing, get a glass of milk and a spoon ,and copy you're paint like it Thats a good way to go, The proper "ratios" can get you in trouble if your using to much/ no enough air pressure. If you mix it to thick and bump up the air, its going to dry before it hits the car. You want to practice practice practice !!! To get what feels right for you. I recomend picking a brand you like or can get regularly, stick with it and practice with it thick and thin.. only you will know whats going to work for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psychographic Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) A good way to know if your paint is thinned properly is to do a test spray on a non porous object, glossy magazines are great for this. You should always do this as the small amount of paint you are mixing can be off by the tiniest amount and make the paint too thin or thick. It might seem to spray into the air fine, but lay down like ###### or run and sag. When you spray your test pattern, look for a nice even spray to insure that your getting a nice round spray that shoots straight out the the AB. If not, the tip is bent, the aircap damaged or one of the airpassages could be clogged. If you are getting a good pattern, the next thing to check, is it fogging out softly or as it fades out from the center of the spray pattern? If it looks grainy or stippled as it fades out, your paint is to thick or as mentioned above, not enough air pressure. Thin it a small amout and try another pass until you get a nice fade. I like about 25-35 PSI myself. Edited February 7, 2012 by Psychographic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 thansk to all of you guys for the great advice. i see i have lot of testing to do. Good thing i have a a lot of paint............ Can any enamel paint be used to paint model cars, as long as the thinning is done correctly. the sores around me only have testors or model master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 You will be fine with the Testors ! I cut it with cheap, hardware store variety laquer thinner . I cut it at a 2 to 1 paint to thinner ratio with my regulator set at 32 psi . Remember ! A multitude of light mist coats are far better than just a few heavy ones ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 if you doing mulitple coats, how long should one wait in between coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 You don't ! Continue to lay light coats down until you have an overall smoothness and shine . As I stated before , light mist coats from about 4 inches away will do the trick ! Once you have achieved this , put the body in a metal cabinet and allow it to flash out for a couple of days . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reaper3 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Thanks lonewolf, i will be trying it out in about an hour. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Go to oldmansmodels.com and watch the airbrush trailer under instructional DVDs , upper lefthand corner of website . You can watch me do exactly what I was explaining to you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris M Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 As far as your airbrush is concerned, whichever type/brand you go with (Paasche talon for me) Be sure to add a quick disconnect from your hose to the gun. I'm in a holding pattern until an order from Amazon shows up with a new air valve assembly, as I stripped mine taking it on and off the hose one too many times. They're worth the $15, especially when you consider down time for ruined parts to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmvw guy Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I use the Paasche type H single-action. It has very few parts to clean up which is a big part of airbrushing. They don't work very good if not clean. I use mostly Testors enamels in the 1/4 oz. bottles thinned about 50/50. Clean up with Gojo hand cleaner, pipe cleaners, and Q-tips for the bigger part of openings. Of course paper towels come in handy. A small squirt of Model Master enamel thiner just before I paint just in case a little Gojo is still in the airbrush. If you go from a light to a darker color sometimes you can switch colors without any cleaning. Just spray a little on a white piece of paper you tape close by to test your spray. This is the cheap way to go for me. Sometimes I use paint collected from a rattle can which is usually thinned about right for use already. Hope this helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrod59f100 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Not to hi jack this thread but how is the paasche vl - double action gun? I had one given to me along with a central pneumatic compressor . I've never used one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scalenut Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) it's a good AB , been around since the 20's and arguably still one of the best selling A/B's of all time, H.R Giger even used one, among many other famous artists Edited February 8, 2012 by scalenut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sickfish Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Reaper, most of the guys have covered the airbrush topic fairly well, I have 2 Pasches & they've served me well over the last 8-10yrs but they're getting retired very soon. You haven't mentioned what type, if you have 1?, of compressor you've got? Or will you be using 1 of those useless air-pressured cans?? Doe's your compressor have a water trap?? If it doesn't you should think about getting 1 that doe's because in humid weather there's going to be plenty of moisture floating around in the air. You don't want water coming down the hose through your gun & spraying droplets onto your model... Can really ruin a great lay-down! As far as thinners go, if you plan on building more than a few models a year, I recommend heading down to your local auto-supply store & getting some Premium all-purpose thinner, the bigger the can, the cheaper it gets in the long run. This stuff will thin any type of paint, enamel, acrylic, lacquer etc & clean it all up too. It's better quality than the thinners hobby stores sell too, keeps the paint very fluid & glossy. Here's another tip, although a lot of guys use enamels, most will tell you they're bloody horrible to work with, they're very weather-moody. They take too long to dry/gas out, especially if you've painted on a nice humid day! Since you're a beginner don't waste a lot of your $$ on those little Testors jars of enamel... Grab yourself auto paint, 2-pack! You can get touch-up paints from everywhere & they're better value for money. You'll need gloss clear though because they all dry flat... But they dry very very quickly & this help's if you're on a time restraint ;-) Have you got yourself a spray-booth? You'll need 1 of 'em if you don't/can't spray outdoors. Anyway mate .... Practice make's perfect so take your time with it... Stick around here as much as you can & you'll pick up everything you ever wanted to know about the hobby :-) Cheers & good luck, Cliffo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I've tried all sorts of airbrushes, and after so many years now, I always come back to my work horses: The Micron and the Eclipse are the best ABs in my opinion! Expensive, sure, but well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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