slowlylearning added a topic in Tips, Tricks, and TutorialsScratchbuilding 'Blank' WheelsYou'll need:
2 to 3mm styrene rectangle rod OR 2 to 3mm styrene sheet (I didnt have that hence the rod)
Grinding/engraving bits that come with Dremels
Sheet styrene .5mm or slightly smaller
Sanding-Drum Dremel bit
Cut a strip of .5mm or smaller sheet styrene. Cut it quite long incase of any mistakes (I made plenty of its too short practicing this). Cut the strip as wide as the tyre you're using.
Curl your strip of styrene around your hobby knife handle from both ends a few times, it help the strip of sheet styrene to keep its curve.
Test fit it in the tyre and chop off the excess to make a since ring of strip styrene, and glue the ends together on the inside while it's in the tyre.
Once the glue has dried pull out the rim about a third of the way and put some glue on the outside of the rim, repeat for both sides.
Cut a much thinner strip to set the deepness of the wheel, Mine will be quite deep-dish so the thin strip is glued almost all the way around towards the back of the rim. Use plenty of glue, it helps with the rigidity of the rim.
You can see here I left a gap because I cut the strip too short, silly me!
- 7 replies
- 1,953 views
slowlylearning added a topic in Tips, Tricks, and TutorialsDeep Dish Wheels & Sparkplug Boot TubingDeep Dish Wheels
What you need:
Adorably small saw (cutting-wheels leave a lot of molten plastic slag)
A Suitable Wheel
Use your adorably small saw to shop the front of the wheel from the rest of the rim.
Clean that sucker up!
Using the backside of the rim as the front, you now have a deep dish!
If you want to use a smaller tyre, and the only ones you have come with too-tall sidewalls...
Carefully slice them off to fit!
Find different iterations that work for what you want them for.
- 11 replies
- 1,425 views
slowlylearning added a topic in Tips, Tricks, and TutorialsCustom Trim and DipsticksCouple of simple small tutorials
Custom trim (side mouldings) (takes a little while)
-masking tape (I used Tamiya and a bigger low tack type)
-easily workable putty
-model car body (I used an old one for practice)
Tape off a design
Make a big mess, build up the putty a bit over theasked off area, remember, its easier to add more than enough now rather than later.
Wait for the putty to become slightly tacky but not overy clumpy, I waited about 5 minutes but it would vary with different putties.
Unmask it carefully and let harden.
Once its hardened you can very carefully shape it with sandpaper (I used 800grit), the end of a file for the edges and an exacto for those trickier bits.
I shot undercoat on it at this point so it was easier to see where I skrewed up and took too much off/chipped it.
After this its just a matter of adding small amounts of putty to the problem area and working it more.
Its a bit of trial and error, but thats why its fun!
Stickin in a dipstick! (5-10 minute detail modification)
You'll need a pinvice with 1mm drillbit,sparkplug boot tubing, .5mm wire, engine and your trusty xacto.
Drill a hole in the side of your engine, from reference you can decide how accurate you want to be.
Wrap the .5mm wire around your 1mm drillbit so it forms a loop like in picture 3 and cut off the excess.
Put the straight end of the looped .5mm wire in the end of the sparkplug boot tube.
Place it in the aformentioned super-accurately placed hole you drilled in the engine and bend it about until youre happy with the way it looks and youre done!
You can also add a tiny 'washer' between the loop in the 5mm wire where it goes into the sparkplug boot tube to add a bit more detail, or use smaller copper tubing instead of the sparkplug boot tube for a smaller scale look.
- 2 replies
- 1,146 views