m408
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Posts posted by m408
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WOW! I hadn't given much thought as to why. Just knew that I enjoyed it. After some heavy thinking, I seem to have some answers, at least for me.
I'm an old guy now, almost 76, and with the age and a bunch of medical problems, I can now longer participate in the physical activities that I love, Golf, Tennis, Bowling, etc... and am limited to indoor activities to eat up the day.
Model car building is a pretty cost effective hobby. Living on a fixed income makes this appealing, but forgoes the resin kits, after market do dads, etc.. But I'm perfectly happy with buying a $15.00 kit and just using the stuff that comes in the box.
It allows me to try to stretch my skills one step at a time and to try to get just a little bit creative. Ie.. my latest project is a 65 El Camino which I am trying to make into kind of a roadster pick up semi custom. Top is gone, body shaved, bumpers striped and will be painted, and hopefully will have a hinged hood and tarp. Not so much compared to other builds here, but a big challenge for me. Not only in skill level, but in time consumed.
Anyhow, I guess my answer is that it is a fun thing that I can do and afford.
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A friend of mine who builds model aircraft uses a glue called G-S hypo cement for windows and canopies and swears by it. Anyone tried this on model cars, and if so, with what results?
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Hey guys,
I am not an economist, just a tax paying citizen. I'm retired. Have been for 8 years. No pension, just Social Security. No pre paid medical, just Medicare. Nobody ever paid me for not working because my "line" was idled. Only government "hand out" that I ever got was short term unemployment when I was laid off, and that came from a fund that I had contributed to.
I have a few questions that I hope you folks might address:
Why does GM compete with itself by having its lines put out much the same products with different logos?
I can understand GM and Ford trying to keep their shareholders somewhat solvent, but why Chrysler? Aren't they privately held? That's like Warren Buffet wanting a hand out because the price of gold dropped.
As far a bailouts, I could use one. If you guys could get together and loan me $100,000.00, spread amongst you that wouldn't be much per lender, I promise to pay you back and change my ways. You can charge me 20% interest. I will quit smoking and drinking. I will only buy kits that are on sale. I will faithfully use my Michaels coupons. Really, I'll pay you back.
And, if for some reason my plan doesn't work, I might be back for another "loan".
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Kevin,
Quit your crying. We all have problems.
Seems to me that you have taken a "hobby" and turned it into a chore. With all of your "deals", build offs, and mixing paints for others, along with family problems, whatever they are, it's no wonder you feel boxed in.
Figure out just why you build. Some do it for a profit, some to demonstrate their skills, some just to replicate cars that they appreciate in as much detail as possible.
Me, I do it as a retreat from the real world. When my financial, personnel, and ongoing medical problems are getting the best of me, that's when I enjoy building the best. I don't have nearly the skills as most people here, but when I can get a couple of pieces of plastic glued together properly or spray a coat of paint that looks pretty good, somehow the world looks a little better.
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Thanks guys. I had a can of "PowerHouse" heavy duty oven cleaner that I had gotten from the dollar store and thought that I would give it a try. Put the parts in a tuperware tub, in my spray booth to avoid any fumes, and gave it a good coating. After about 10 minutes and a touch of an old tooth brush and a cold water rinse, they came out clean as a whistle.
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I want to strip and color paint some chrome bumpers. Best way?
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Sure there is...when you drive a really fast one, you'll say "yipee"!!
So I guess that makes it two "e"s...
Milt,
It's good to see you building again!!
When are we going to get together for another Milt's NNL?
Later,
Been building Raul. Just not completing.
Maybe after NNL West we can have another pizza get together. I might even have another build finished by then.
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Wel milt glad to see you are back, nice looking Camero too. Great Job on it.
Didn't leave Clay, just been looking and learning.
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Just the stuf that came in the box. In fact, not even all of the stuf that came in the box.
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Hey Clay, could have been worse. What if you heard the doctor say "oops"?
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Super nice Curt.
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Thanks guys. I'll try to explain the extent of my dilemma, and my proposed plan. Your comments will be appreciated.
The kit is AMT's 34 Ford 5 window. To install the interior bucket the body must be spread. Can't do it with the fire wall glued in. Don't want to install the interior and have to mask windows etc.. for paint. So....I have painted the top section and applied Future to allow for some handling while working on the lower section. Installing windows and interior bucket. Then will finish lower section, prep, and paint.
Whacha think?
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Tamiya is a synthetic lacquer..any lacquer paint will work..
best option is Tamiya TS-13 clear. its good stuff, put a couple mist coats down for base, then lay down a few wet coats.it goes on very thin, like all tamiya paint, so you will need the heavier wet coats at the ends...
its best to clear over tamiya within 30 minutes or wait 30 days..
I have waited 24 hours to clear, and didnt have an issue, but have heard that was pushing it..
I have used Testors model master lacquer clear over Tamiya with mixed results. I dont think Tamiya gloss black likes anything other than Tamiya clear. but I put it over a tamiya chrome yellow base and tamiya pearl clear mid coat with great results.
duplicolor import touch up paint clear, is another option. its also lacquer, but i havent tried it over tamiya...
Thanks James. Problem is that this will be a two tone paint job with a thin black stripe between the colors. Maybe just using Future might be my best bet.
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Have no idea what type of paint Tamiya is, other than expensive.
What do you folks recommend for a clear coat, and how long should I wait for the paint to set before coating?
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Welcome aboard DJ.
I got back into model building, after a 40 year lay off, a couple of years ago. Joining this forum was the best move that I could have made. You will find that the folks here are not only an inspiration to progress with your skills, but an encyclopedia of knowledge which they are more than willing to share.
I would suggest that you locate and buy a book called "Building and Detailing Scale Model Cars" by Pat Covert. It covers everything from basic tools to detailing.
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Pysanky. Hand decorating Ukrainian Easter eggs using a wax resist process. Very relaxing and a nice break from glue and plastic.
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I've a body which has been painted and foiled. It's kind of grungey and I want to wash it before clear coating.
What do you guys recommend? and... how will washing effect the foil?
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I've got a decent paint job going and am about to try my first BMF application. Do it now? Or after clear coating?
Your thoughts.
Also, either way, how long to wait? Paint and clear coat are Model Master custom lacquer system.
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That's it exactly. A fine brush and a steady hand. Masking would be tricky, with all the ins and outs you'd have to contend with. Liquid masking wouldn't be much help either, because you have to paint it on with a brush...so you'd still only get as straight a line as you could paint anyway!
Best way to detail a chassis like this is to take your time, use a good brush, and don't worry about being too perfect. If you make a mistake, you can always go back and clean up the color separation line by touching up with the color you "over-ran".
And remember...it's the bottom of the model. Nobody's going to see it unless you show it to them!
Unless you're entering a contest, don't worry about a few imperfections.Thanks Harry. That's what I was afraid of. Oh well.
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I have a couple of kits where the frame, exhaust system, gas tank etc... are all pre molded in. I would like to detail them a little. Seems like it would take a super small brush and a hand much more steady than mine, or hours of masking.
Any suggestions?
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I have only attended one NNL event. West, last year.
Two magazines were offering to photograph selected models.
Was that a form of judging? I think so.
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Cover story on model boats? I guess I missed that one. Which issue are you talking about?
November 2007. Pages 26-31.
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Pauls models usually only sell for 2 to 3 hundred dollars. That one was a rare exception for some reason.
Huuum.. Lets do a little math.
Assuming that you could get an average of $250.00 per build, could produce one in 20 hours, which I doubt, and had a guarenteed buyer for every model, you would gross $500.00 per week.
All of the kits and supplies are donated free.
A 52 week schedule, no vacation time, would get you $26,000.00 per year. Of course you could up that by working seven days a week.
Not for me, even if I could.
Unless you're entering a contest, don't worry about a few imperfections.
Huuum.. Lets do a little math.
Flock of Eagles
in Model Cars
Posted
Super builds as always Brendon. At least we have one company (person) who doesn't need a government bail out to be successful. Maybe you could give Detroit some tips.