m408
-
Posts
601 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by m408
-
-
Kevin,
I'm in. I've got two going out in the mail tomorrow and I can put together a simple box-build to follow.
I don't know what, but I'll find something in my stash that I can easily part with and build relatively quickly.
You might consider making this a "build-off" with all of the models going to the "cause". Either way, I'm in.
Regards,
Hey Raul,
How can we tie this into the next Milt's NNL the end of July? Maybe everyone bring a model packed in its box ready to ship? I could gather them up and do a bulk ship via UPS. Your thoughts?
-
its oficcial this is a build off
enter as many as you want
what ever type you want
and what ever style you want
everyone is welcome
and all kits go to the kids
the dead line is till the first week of winter
that is a while away
when you finish on send it off and start on the next
the goal number is 150 built kits
O.K. Kev, I'm in.
Everything in process goes on hold.
LHS makes a few bucks tomorrow for a new kit. Only one since it takes me months of "do overs" to complete a project.
-
Here's a side thought.
These kids might become fellow model builders. Some of the treatments that they go through leave them unable to participate in a lot of activities, at least for a while. As you all know, what we do can be started and stopped whenever we feel like it.
I know that some 8 year old will see my builds and say "heck, I can do that".
Just a thought.
-
Taking these to UPS today.
-
O.k. This is just a tease.
We will get together again late July or early August, time and date yet to be determined, but this is just a way to get your attention to check out the "Cars for kids" thread on this forum.
Come on gang, jump in.
-
Hey guys,
I knew that you would respond, and I hope that others will.
After a few PMs with Carl, I have a little more info. Kids are from 8-13. The hospital staff would not look kindly on craft knives or paint since most of the kids are really beat after chemo sessions. However, that being said, color molded snap kits might be a good choice if you don't want to send completed models. Just a thought.
Lets get our friends on the band wagon. I can't think of a better place to put one of my models.
-
While cruising this section of our forum, I stumbled on a thread "Model car purchases" by "Carl M". It's not really what it sounds like. Carl is trying to acquire some finished model cars to be placed in the rooms of kids going through long term hospital care. When released, the kids would be able to take them home. Carl hasn't the time nor skills to build them all so he is willing to buy them. I think that we can do better than that. I'm shipping two this weekend. I hope that some of you will join be. He has posted his email on the thread if you want additional information. Please check it out.
-
Ugly my arse. Only thing that I would do is replace the tail lights with a pair off of a 46 Chevy and drive it every day.
-
Carl,
I'm not nearly as talented as most of the guys here, but I have a few builds that are acceptable, especially for a kid. PM me an address and I would be more than happy to send you a couple. No charge, just tell the kids that I hope that they like them.
-
My best hint or tip.
If you have a question or problem, post it here. You will get answers and/or solutions from some of the best.
-
Over the past few months, I have amassed an arsenal of glue types. Two part 5min epoxy, super thin CA, Testors brush on, Elmers white, and Tenax-7R.
Unfortunately, I don't have a clue as to how to best utilize them.
Instead of my usual "trial by error" scheme, I'm asking for your opinions and recommendations. What is best for what? Any additional tips will also be appreciated. -
I don't know what you're going for, it sounds like too much work to me. I simply paint everything then attach the parts. I never ever worry about getting paint on to-be-glued surfaces. CA glue and epoxy stick to everything, paint, chrome. I never use styrene tube glue or any of the brush type glues for final assembly. I will scrape chrome and glue if it makes the parts fit better.
Bob
Hey Bob,
Thanks for the responses. Here's what I'm going for.
Since getting back into this a little over a year ago, I find that I'm still way behind the curve and constantly trying to upgrade my skills, little by little.
My latest conundrum is over painting parts prior to assembly. Example, I get a nice coat of paint on an engine block only to find that to attach heads, valve covers, oil pans, etc... I have to carefully remove paint to insure a good bond. Sometimes I remove too much and have to touch up the block. Another example, is after carefully removing and trimming, and painting suspension or steering parts, to assemble them I must scrape or sand tiny areas to expose bare plastic prior to gluing.
I'm not opposed to a little extra work, if it will improve my overall skill level, and the final look of my completed work.
-
I love fish. Mostly pan fried.
-
Thanks all for your tips. I will surely try them all. But here is an off the wall thought that I would like to run by you.
Engines, suspension parts etc... How about using double sided scotch tape to attach and align manifolds oil pans, heads, valve covers etc... Then trim excess as you would a BMF job. After removing said parts, you would have a masked area ready for paint. Paint, remove tape and fix parts to bare plastic.
Am I way off base here?
-
use one of the white glues...Ultimate..Aileens Tacky ...these are strong enough WHEN DRY to hold things together I use them for motor parts like headers and intake(or blowers) and when dry are flexable not hard....also great for mocking up suspensions...
Go check out my '34 pickup or '32 topless builds on this forum...held together with those two and tape!!!
Hey Mike,
Nice builds.
A little bit off of the subject but, checking out your glue stash, I see both Testors plastic cement and Tenax. I have the Testors. When would you use the Tenax?
-
I've been planning on building a super detailed General Lee for some years now. i'll get to it eventually, but to build an accurate General Lee here is what you'll need
Revell 69 Charger, for the grill, front bumper, rear bumper. and some parts here an there
Revell 68 Charger, for the body, since it doesn't have the molded in vinyl top.
AMT General Lee kit, for the decals, but I would recommend looking online and getting some, there is a decal maker who is making more realistic General Lee decals
IIRC Missing Link resin offers correct American Racing Vector wheels.
For the engine, they never really showed a good shot of the engine. but I would recommend seeing season 1, episode 4 entitled "Repo Men", they show a beat up Charger (which still exists BTW), and they show a very good shot of an engine, in which the Duke Boys would eventually get. thats the route that i'm planning on going with this kit, but the 440 from the kit would also be correct.
here's a link to the "Repo Men" Charger restoration that should help you no matter how you build it
but since your just building as a display. get the AMT kit. its not correct but for what you need it for it will work alot better then what I described. plus alot cheaper.
BTW, I am a HUGE Dukes of Hazzard fan
Thanks Terry,
As you say, it's only for a kids room display.
I appreciate you guys who go to great pains to replicate actual cars. However, my building pleasure comes from just building what comes in the kit. Fixed income does not allow for much after market stuf, let alone buying several kits to produce one model.
I found the AMT kit with full decal set at Hobbylink for $10.19 so that will have to do.
-
O.K. Guys, I understand about the small parts.
But, how about headers and manifolds, or valve covers, or suspension systems (shocks etc...), or front end linkages?
When I was building 1:1 street rods, we had to build them three times.
1- Clean everything up and tack it into place.
2- Refit as needed, add brackets etc... True up for final locations then send it out for paint.
3- After paint, final assembly.
This is what I'm trying to do. Just need a weak glue to simulate "tacking" and final adjustments. I'm just not skilled enough to take things out of a kit and get it right the first time with all parts painted.
-
I have an ongoing problem that I'm sure most of you have faced in the past.
After revmoving and trimming parts from sprues I pre paint them after trying to somehow mask future glue areas. I never get them all and end up trying to remove paint from the smallest places. My least favorite part of this hobby. It drives me nutz.
I'm thinking that if I could find a very weak glue, I could build sub sections, and somehow mark the glue areas. Then take apart, mask, paint, and re assemble.
Any help as to what glue or other ideas will be appreciated.
-
Basz,
Try www.briansmodelcars.com
They have a great tutorial on painting. From priming to actual paint. Also, other sections of "how to"s. It might save you some experimenting time.
-
Thanks for the help guys.
Since her son is only 18mos old, I think that the car is more for her.
Since this won't be a "toy" for a year or two, I'm going with the plastic. I found the AMT kit with full decal set at Hobbylinc.com for $10.19. I have bought from them in the past and have been very satisfied. The always seem to have what I want at good prices.
Thanks again.
-
O.K. gang, here's the deal.
A friend of mine wants me to build the Dukes of Hazard General Lee car to decorate her sons bedroom. With my limited building skills, I need to know the following.
1- What is the most simple kit to build?
2- Where can I find it?
3- What color is right.?
I know that I have seen some completed builds here, so someone will have the answers.
-
I'm with George. Rag top it. Or......retractable hard top?
-
This may irk a few great builders who post here, but, IMO this is the best that I have seen. From paint to extreme detail. I'm sure that if you could post some in progress pics, sources for components, and what research went into this project, we would all appreciate it.
-
Milt,
Here's some pictures of a bike that I did with Duplicolor Chrome. It's only on the frame. It's decent but it won't be replacing Alclad any time soon. The main thing I dislike is that it is an enamel. It took over two weeks to completely cure. Other than that I would use it again for covering large areas, especially for the price.
Seemed to work out well Brendan. Couple of questions.
How well would a dehydrator aide in drying time?
How to get added gloss? I tried Duplicolor clear over a spoon test and it turned the sample grey.
Milt
Instead of my usual "trial by error" scheme, I'm asking for your opinions and recommendations. What is best for what? Any additional tips will also be appreciated. 
Cars for Kids...Thank you.
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Antonio,
I've seen some of your work "under glass". The kids are going to love em.