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jchrisf
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Posts posted by jchrisf
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I got a Pace but I'd get this one instead if I had it to do all over again
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18 hours ago, NOBLNG said:
Ok, I sanded the raised rim which I am re-painting anyways and scraped the inside corners as much as possible. My local HS only had Tamiya compound, so I am trying to polish out the scratches. Some are fairly deep.? What would be the coarsest grit paper that could be used prior the polishing compound?
I'd probably start with 2,000 and go up to 6 or 8,000 then I use a Dremel with a buffing wheel and some Mequiar's Ultra-Cut and then polish. The dremel makes it so much faster and smoother than I can do by hand
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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:
And that won’t harm the clear plastic? I know it can make regular styrene brittle, and clear is already more brittle…?
Good question.. I've never used it on clear before. Honestly, I'd just sand and polish it out if it were me.
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I've had luck with DOT 3 brake fluid when Super Clean wouldn't remove it.
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21 hours ago, CabDriver said:
I'm sorry Chris, my bad for being too vague...I've got a Silhouette Portrait vinyl cutter that I use to cut these masks. I lay out the design in either the Silhouette software or, if it's more complex, Adobe Illustrator, and then have the machine cut Oracal masking vinyl to the right size to make the masks. I used that for the tire lettering on this one, plus the door letters and the numbers on the rear quarters.
So Jim, can I assume that you just downloaded a pic of the real tire logos and then traced it out in Illustrator and resized to print on your cutter? I never thought about doing this.. my wife has a Cricut.. I'll have to figure out how to make it printable/cuttable on that. I much prefer airbrushing the tires than using decals. I do have a set of card stock stencils I got off eBay for Goodyear but if I can figure out how to do this on the Cricut I will be able to have other tire brands too.
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10 hours ago, CabDriver said:
Just cut a stencil out of Oracal masking vinyl on my cutter - but I know people sell these online too
Pardon my ignorance Jim but when you say you cut it on your cutter, does this mean you cut it by hand? It is really looking cool and like a race car now. Great tips here.
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1 hour ago, stevez said:
which is best over a tamiya spray can color, rustoleum acrylic lacquer clear or rustoleum 2x clear?
I would think they would both be safe to use but I've never tried it over Tamiya. I do have some Tamiya here that I plan on using in a future build so I'll know soon enough. But after using the 2X I have no desire to use the lacquer because of the smell. However, the humidity should be out of Florida now for about 8 months so I'll be able to spray clear outside now without it hazing up.
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Very nice... where'd you get the masks for airbrushing the Goodyear emblem on the tires?
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23 hours ago, dave branson said:
Do not if you know , North Pulaski is no longer a school they built a new school where the old Jacksonville High School was, and built a new High School that combined Jacksonville, and North Pulaski
For some reason I searched for it a couple of years ago and found that NP was turned into a middle school. Is that gone now too? In that search I also saw that they had combined the two high schools. I thought that was strange if it is still pulling students from the same area but I'm sure they probably built other high schools for those on the NLR side I was on. I lived closer to Sylvan Hills that NP but they sent us there. I also saw they turned my old Northwood Junior High into a different school too.
I also went to HS in Muncie, Indiana and they turned that nice HS into a middle school.
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1 hour ago, dave branson said:
they have 1 and it is Jacksonville
That's where I went to HS.. North Pulaski... but I lived in NLR and remember the one at the corner of JFK and McCain. I don't remember one in Jacksonville though.
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On 9/28/2021 at 9:17 PM, dave branson said:
was parked at the local burger joint.
I grew up in Arkansas and totally forgot about the Minute Man restaurant. Do they still have them there?
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12 hours ago, Paul Payne said:
Now that Shabo seems to be out of business. does anyone else make either dry transfers or decals for the old style Firestone lettering? I have a number of tires with no molded lettering so a pen won't work. BTW, I work in 1/25th scale, and would like lettering for 40's style hot rod tires.
Can you use water slide decals?
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/browse.php?kw=tire,decals
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The next model I do I'm going to spray the primer and immediately when the dry time is completed per the can instructions I'm going to spray the color coat and immediately when that dry time is completed (usually around 20 - 40 minutes) I'm going to spray the clear. This stuff goes on so smooth there is no need to sand until after the clear is dry.
I find the matte paints go down really thin and smooth. I try not to use gloss colors because they go on thicker and have orange peel.
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On 9/20/2021 at 6:22 PM, jchrisf said:
Dave, the decals ought to go down nice though.
Oh yeah, these 30 year old decals are going down much better. Hopefully I won't have to clear over them but I am temped to anyway just to see how well this clear handles decals.
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46 minutes ago, Zippi said:
Sorry you had issues with the Rust-Oleum Lee. I use the gray 2X primer for all my paint jobs no matter what paint. I think my 66 Nova was primed with Rust-Olem 2X and the top coat and clear was Rust-Olem. 2X. Didn't have any issues. I found out early on that the 2X sprays out really heavy and you have to be careful.
Yeah, I use very fast motion across the car or part. Sure doesn't take long to paint.. and I love that part too.
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20 hours ago, old gearhead said:
OK. I've been building for just about 50 years and have made every mistake in regard to the finishing of model car bodies imaginable. However, experience tells me that despite my in-depth knowledge of paint (lacquer vis-a-vis enamel vis-a-vis acrylic, and all that), stuff can still happen.
So. I'm about to try a product I've never used before.
I have an MFH Ferrari '58 250TR that needs a clear coat. Primer is Tamiya TS white primer over TS light grey primer with a color coat of TS Chrome Yellow. No worries there, I would just normally use TS13 to clear and polish. But, I just spent a lot of time masking and then airbrushing Testors Dark Red enamel racing stripes onto that body, and then applying white decal-paper roundels on top of all that.
My go-to in this case would be a Testors gloss enamel clear to be on the safe side, but that seems to have become extinct (and, it yellows, despite what Donn Yost says. Right out of the can). I tried misting, and then wet-coating, TS-13 onto a scrapped body with a Scalefinishes enamel finish to which I applied a swatch of the Testors Dark Red enamel and a spare white decal paper roundel. As I expected, the TS13 lifted the enamel on the wet coat (the Scalefinishes and the Testors were attacked, however I could swear I've used TS13 over Scalefinishes paint without adverse affects), however it had no effect on the decal, which I also expected seeing as how I seal my home-made decals with healthy doses of acrylic lacquer, as is recommended by the manufacturer.
I read about, and saw, the finish Chris from the "Space Coast" (I assume you're in FLA, Chris) achieved using the Rustoleum 2X Clear Gloss. Chris figures it's an enamel in as that clean up calls for mineral spirits, said it goes on real nice, it obviously polishes out well, etc. So, I figured, what the hell? Let's give it a try!
Of course, I will do a test before I use the 2X on my TR. My questions is: are there any red flags about this clear that I should be aware of? I don't mind stripping a body and starting from zero, but I've put a lot of time into this particular car and, frankly, I'm getting old and impatient and have a lot of other projects to attend to. I'd really hate for this one to fail.
Thanks in advance.
PB.
Paul I painted mine with their 2X Primer and 2X Black Matte. I haven't cleared over decals in a while. The last time I did was with Tamiya clear and it ate my decals. I used some Duplicolor clear and it ate my decals as well. I'll have to try this over decals sometime and see how it goes.
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1 hour ago, Classicgas said:
You can have rustoleum. It sucks. Their clear over their paint, fully cured, everything done by the book. pure garbage.
Lee, that pic of mine is their 2X Clear over their 2X Primer and 2X Black Matte paint. And I painted the black about 40 minutes after I primed it. It is the toughest paint I've used as well.. it doesn't scratch as easy as the lacquers I've used and seems to stick to the plastic and itself better.
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I got two of these Corvettes and one of the Fords yesterday at Hobby Lobby for 40% off
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Went to HL today to kill time before and appointment and they had a nice selection of models at 40% off. Usually they don't have any models I am interested in because I like race cars but I was surprised to find two of the Revell Corvette C-7R and two Ford GT Le Mans kits. I got them for a steal.
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2 hours ago, Zippi said:
Haven't looked at any of the metal colors. I painted my 66 Nova with Rust-Oleum gloss gray and cleared it with Rust-Oleum clear gloss. Turned out pretty nice. I get great results with darker colors as I can see it going on wet. The lighter colors not so easy to see for me.
I saw Matthew's nice paint on his engine and asked him what he used and he said Rustoleum metallics. It looks good
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Very cool.. I hope these don't cost more than their other kits but I have a feeling they will.
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Yes.. this is the exact can of clear I used above.
I'm going to be checking out their metal colors next. If they lay down as well as the clear, primer and color coats and are just as tough that will be perfect.
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Kawasaki Ninja H2R
in All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
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I love it.. it looks awesome