[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

37 minutes ago, Zen said:

Have a pic of the can you used available?

I'm pretty sure it is this one but I'll check when I get home.

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

24 minutes ago, FLHCAHZ said:

How long did yu let it dry before sanding and polishing?

About three days.  I put it in a dehydrator for a couple hours after it had dried for a few hours.

 

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

1 minute ago, Snake45 said:

Thanks!

I don't know if it's the same stuff, but I've been using their "High Lustre Coating" Lacquer, misting on a couple of coats to be safe, and then 3 or 4 wetter ones. I've been VERY happy so far with how it polishes out. 

I'll have to look at the can when I get home to be sure it is the painter's touch but I know it cleans up with Mineral Spirits according to the label so it must be enamel.

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

9 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Chris, how many coats of the clear did you put on? 

Snake, I put on two coats about 30 minutes apart out of the can.

[What did you get today? (Model Car Related Items)]

Just got these two in that I am looking forward to building.

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

35 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

There's  no working 1/1 race car in the world with a finish like that. Too much.

Dave, the decals ought to go down nice though.

[White tire lettering]

9 minutes ago, Zippi said:

I saw that HL carries the 0.5mm tip.  Is that the size you use?

Mine is the 08.. I just looked it up and it looks like it is the .8mm pen.  I don't remember if they had different sizes when I purchased mine and if they did why I choose that one.

 

[Sunny King Thunderbird]

Nice!

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

Thanks everyone.  The best part is it is cheap and doesn't smell as bad.  It also seems to be tougher than the lacquers I have used in the past.  The inside of the body (painted with Rustoleum) would be scratched up from putting it on and off my Tamiya stand if it was lacquer or acrylic.  I don't have any clear on the inside.  I also put Rustoleum on my chassis and not a mark on it.

The dremel saves so much time.  I'd have never thought about it but saw my hero David Thibodaeu do it on one of his videos where he explains it very well.  I have a cordless dremel that doesn't spin as fast on it's lowest setting but they make corded ones that have multi-speed that can get low.  I'll be getting one like Dave

s when I need another.  I think I only paid $20 for my cheap dremel though.

 

[Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice]

I found it to be a quicker process than normal.  2000 followed by 4000, then Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound followed by Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish.  The compound and polish with a wool attachment on my Dremel.  The Rustoleum laid down flatter than any Lacquer I've ever used so I didn't have a lot of orange peel.  This picture doesn't even do it justice.

[White tire lettering]

I use the Japanese Gelly Roll 08 white pen that I got at Michaels.  It takes a very lite touch with good lighting and magnifaction.  I practiced on four tires before I got the hang of it.  I just used alcohol to wipe them off and start again.  Once I got the hang of it I was able to slowly and carefully do all four without a problem.  I found pushing the pen towards the edges worked better for me.  If you barely touch it to the tire it will flow out nicely and you can move the ink around with the pen.

You can also sand them off and use decals.

 

[1/18 Custom Wendell Scott/George Wiltshire Dodge Charger]

Great build and story Jim.. what was Wendall like?  I saw the movie about him.. seemed like he was a nice and cool guy.

[Some inspirational miniature painting - crazy skills with a brush!]

I subscribed to her YT channel too.. Thanks for posting.  I'd love to see what she could do on a car model.

[Looking for tips on detail painting]

1 hour ago, Andrew McD said:

I will try thinning the Tamiya acrylic and see if that gives me a bit more control of the flow and avoid the clumping and streaking problems.

You'll notice from the video I posted above that he uses a wet pallet.  These people who use wet pallets will keep the paint on their pallets for weeks without them drying so it saves on paint.  They also use flow improvers and retarders in the mix.

[Looking for tips on detail painting]

I found this figure painter's channel to be very useful for detail painting.  He has a lot of cool videos that have taught me a lot

 

[What did you get today? (Model Car Related Items)]

Nice Jim.. I'm going to have to check that wire out.

[What did you get today? (Model Car Related Items)]

I've gotten a few cool kits the past couple of weeks.. this is most of them

 

[What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?]

This thread is Plumcrazy

[What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?]

1 hour ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I beg your pardon? Robdebie already suggested to me Andy X/Donn Yost on an earlier thread of mine. He is in fact a member here. I just ordered a Paasche H online and some other supplies based on HIS suggestion. 

 

David, that is a good airbrush to start with.. probably the most recommended one here.  When I first got into this hobby a couple of years ago I wanted to start with an airbrush too. I've since purchased a few and now have a Procon Boy PS-290 which is a true workhorse but I still love my Paasche H too.  The 290 is my main airbrush now though.  Enjoy it and post up some pics when you get a good paintjob.  If you do it like AndyX did it, it will come out great.

[Has anyone bought the "Scale Auto First 35 years" dvd]

I'm hoping someone will just put them out there and no one will care.

[Has anyone bought the "Scale Auto First 35 years" dvd]

2 minutes ago, Dave Van said:

Pretty sure the copyright is still in place.  Add to it the files on the disk will not open w/o the disk and I ain't figured out how to export the files. 

If the company is gone I'd think the copyright was null and void.  Plus they are not selling it anymore and there is no way for anyone to get access to this great resource.  Hopefully someone will figure out how to get it the pdfs off there.  I'd be happy to pay a fair price for it but I can't even do that.  Fortunately I bought some of the digital sets they had available before the DVD was out.  They are of several things but one was the Kemp Collection and the other was Building the Legends with Clay Kemp and David Thibodeau.  I'd love to get everything Clay and DT have done.

[Has anyone bought the "Scale Auto First 35 years" dvd]

I was thinking.. now that Scale Auto is defunct, is there anything preventing people from sharing these now?

[Working Around Red Plastic?]

I just read an article by Bob Downie @Zoom Zoom about this very subject in an old issue of Scale Auto.  He uses Zinsser BIN Shellac Based Primer Sealer to prevent the bled through.

[New way to strip paint from bodies, safe and simple!]

I saw on their facebook page that they are not shipping yet.

[What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?]

6 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

 

Andy X doesn't even use primer in his modified Donn Yost technique. The Testors enamel and the lacquer thinner in the mix should chemically bite into model kit plastic quite readily. I would still lightly scuff the bare plastic with fine 5000-grit sandpaper before turning the paint gun on it. 

 

 

I found this video a couple of years ago and did just like Andy and my paintjob came out great.  Only thing about those Testor's paints is they take a long time to cure.  So you'll have to have patience waiting for that paint to dry.  Get a dehydrator and it will go quicker.  This would be a good starter airbrush.  I got mine on sale at HL for $25.  So go ahead and get started.  The best way to learn is to do it.