Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

jchrisf

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    947

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by jchrisf

    Tamiya 1/24 Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT

    in WIP: Model Cars

    Posted

    54 minutes ago, Funkychiken said:

    With this level of quality, it would be hard to beleive that you are a newbie!

    Thanks Atin... I started a couple of years ago and built 5 or 6 models before I got frustrated with bad paint finishes.  So I took two years off and kept watching YT videos and finally got the bug to try it again.  I have trouble with painting the bodies and end up having to strip them and start over.  This one was left in Tamiya primer because I like the way it looks and goes on so smooth.  I would be finished with this build but I'm waiting to get more practice with the clear on my test body before I shoot this one.  This is also the first build I have done where I have taken my time.  It makes a big difference I've learned.

    Does Tamiya Yellow cap Laquer Thinner have Leveler/Retarder in it?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    12 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    I usually lock the needle assembly in place so that there is about 1/16” between the back of the needle holder and the flange on the needle assembly, though I do adjust the location of the needle based on how well the paint is flowing. The key is to practice until you achieve results that you like. Scrap bodies, pop cans, paper, whatever helps you get used to controlling the brush.

    As for the VL, I would suggest practicing with the H until you become comfortable with spraying. The VL is a double-action airbrush (adjustable for both paint and airflow), so It adds in another layer of complexity while you paint.

    4098C13C-85E0-4DE1-8DCA-64B3E73DFC4B.jpeg

    That's interesting where you lock it in place.  I've not heard of doing that before.  I've always thought that needle stuck up too high.  Is this a common practice?

    Does Tamiya Yellow cap Laquer Thinner have Leveler/Retarder in it?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    8 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    I always used a #3 for spraying most hobby paints, and a #5 if I was spraying paint with a heavy metal flake content. The only time I use a #1 tip is when I need to spray inks for posters.

     

    11 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    The #3 tip on the H is the honey zone imo and most compressors will keep up with it. The number 5 can start spitting if your compressor won't flow enough ( just watch the working pressure on your gauge as you do a test shoot), especially tankless compressors may not keep up with that #5 tip, the pressure drops out and next thing you're shooting gubers. I use an 8 gal portable compressor anyway but non the less pretty much never have seen the need to move to the #5 tip except to try it out, course that depends too how you thin your paint. I've shot enamel even on my Badger with .25 needle, just thin it 1/1. Sprays fine, beautiful really. Non the less with the H, imo, the #3 needle is the sweet one that does most things right. Still, I can understand using the #1 for thin lacquer and for washes too. Or the #5 for something thick.

    Mr Leveling thinner, which is lacquer thinner, has retarder in it fwiw. A lot of people use it and like it too.

    How far do you all open your nozzle on the H when you shot lacquer on the car body?

    9 hours ago, GeeBee said:

    It really depends on what I'm using, for lacquer paints i find the VL with the #3 set up gives me the best finish, for sythentic enamels like those I used for the Trabant the H with the #5 set up was the only way I could get a decent finish.

    I'll have to give the VL a try soon... was trying to master the H for smooth body painting first but haven't figured that out yet... I might have to put it aside and grab the VL

    Does Tamiya Yellow cap Laquer Thinner have Leveler/Retarder in it?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    1 hour ago, GeeBee said:

    Yes, 

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Butyl-Cellosolve-2-butoxyethanol-Purity-500ml/dp/B00CF2JMDM

    Thanks Geoff!

    1 hour ago, GeeBee said:

    I use the Paasche H and the VL, I would forget using the #1 set up, and go to for the #3 instead, for some paints like synthetic enamel I've had to go to the #5 set up.

    Thanks again Geoff!  I have a VL too but have never used it.  Which do you like better?  I got mine on sale for $25 at Hobby Lobby and couldn't pass it up.

    Does Tamiya Yellow cap Laquer Thinner have Leveler/Retarder in it?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    3 hours ago, GeeBee said:

    No, for that, you need to bottle with the orange top

    prod_16740938136.jpeg

    Is there anything I can add to my Yellow Top to retard it?

    3 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    Tamiya does have a retarder available for its acrylic line, but I haven’t seen it out yet for lacquers. With the LP series out now, I wouldn’t be surprised to see a retarder in the line soon. 

    Btw, what tip are you using on your H? If you are using the #3, you may want to change it to the #5 for better paint flow before the thinner flashes. Hope this helps.

    I've been using the #1 tip because I notice most custom paints recommend small nozzles for body paint... and even the #1 is pretty big.

    Tamiya 1/24 Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT

    in WIP: Model Cars

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

    Looking fantastic!!!

    Thanks Dann!

    10 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

    Looks good!

    Thanks Alex, I'm a big fan of your work and articles!

    10 hours ago, lghtngyello03 said:

    Looks good. I’ve had this kit for a while...it screams to be built lol. 

    Thanks Scott and Yes it does scream to be built :)

    9 hours ago, El Roberto said:

    Wow, looking good.   Yeah...Tamaya decals can be problematic sometimes.  

    Thanks Robert.. I've never had a problem with Tamiya decals but this is a pretty complex scheme for me but I've learned a lot and should make most of my stash kits easy.

    8 hours ago, ZTony8 said:

    I have that kit in my stash. My plan is to take the engine from the 1984 Toyota Tom's prototype and use in the Supra. Yes, that a 4 cylinder in there-I think it was peculiarity of the Japanese series rules.

    Wow Tony, that is above my skill level for now.. I guess you will cut the hood open so you can see the engine?

    Anyone tried this nail polish? Might be best chrome

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Carmak said:

    My 23 year old daughter just told me today about a brush on chrome nail polish that looks really good. She told me it has to be cured quickly after brushing with a UV light to produce a good clear chrome look. She wants to get some to touch up the faded vacu-chrome on the dash of her 69 Mustang. I can't wait to see how it looks.

    Carmak

    Cool.. hope it works for our cars too!

    What airbrush will do this?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted · Edited by jchrisf

    7 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    Paasche Talon offers an additional fan cap as well ( seems to me the cap and nozzle combo is $10 or so). It's used with the .66 needle but it's double action so you don't have to pull back all the way if you want less paint. I believe the pattern is around 3".

    I've been looking at that one too Dave.  Right now I am leaning more for the Creos but you never know :)

    What airbrush will do this?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    39 minutes ago, Glen Powers said:

    Chris, I subscribe to the 'thin, soft, close" method. Thin paint, low pressure, close to the target, for me I feel it results in less overspray/orange peel. It seems when it comes to airbrushing just about everyone has a method that works for them and you will no doubt develop your own also.

    Glen 

    Glen, that is exactly how the 1:1 guys do it.. I'm trying to get closer with less pressure and thinner paint like you said but my current airbrushes just do a fine line at that distance and why I think I need one of these.

    What airbrush will do this?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Miatatom said:

    I haven't tried a pressure that high but will give it a try.

    what pressure do you use?

     

    11 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    I usually use between 30 or 40 psi with my PS-290.

    I have not tried it with pressures as low as 20 psi, but my understanding is that a larger volume air supply works better for this higher volume air brush.

     

     

     

     

    Steve

    I looked at some reviews and one guy says he sprays all the way down at 10psi.  Most others said they have to use more air.. but I watched a couple of YT videos and even though they were using more pressure it wasn't overpowering their paint booths so I should be good.  I have a 26 gallon tank so I have plenty of pressure I just don't want to overpower my paint booth since I paint inside.  This Creos 290 looks like it atomizes the paint really well without too much paint going everywhere.

×
×
  • Create New...