Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About b_erwin

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    East TN
  • Full Name
    William (Butch) Erwin

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. He’s been working on it for as long as I’ve known him....about 20 years. Since he’s out in California, and the state is closed for the virus, maybe he’ll get some time in the garage to actually finish it! Otherwise, it’ll NEVER get done!
  2. I meant to post it in the under glass section. I asked the mods to move it. Thanks
  3. My completed model includes a few modifications to replicate his car: 1. Reshaped hood with raised center beauty line. 2. Jackman Style wheels (Rears had to be narrowed because the only ones I could find were for a VW Drag car) 3. Seats from another kit modified to simulate the Miata cloth seats) 4 . Scratch built Exhaust. 5. Scratch built Intake manifold to convert from the kit's dual carb setup to a single carb I also used Textured paint to simulate the fiberglass chop on the under side
  4. My friend has been building a Meyer's Manx Buggy in his garage for a LOOOONG time. He asked me to build a model of what it will look like completed. Here are a few pics of the current state of his car:
  5. Final Assembly: Front Turn Signals are Classification lights left over from a truck model, and the Mustang tail lights were from a junk yard parts bin purchase. The chrome bezels weren't included, so I had to improvise with a Molotow pen. Not exact, but close enough. The headlights in this kit, don't have locating tabs and holes. Also, once glued in place, you cannot remove the hood (which would be a shame since I went to the trouble of relocating the fill hole from off center where the original gas fill was on the kit to the center of the hood where it is on Steve's buggy). At any rate, I drilled holes in the head light buckets and in the body stanchions, and sacrificed one of my drill bits to pin the headlights to the body. That way they can be removed, if he wants to look under the hood. And onto the "Under Glass" Section...... I'll post a thread there in a day or two.
  6. Next Step was painting the top side: Primed: Then Blue with Wet Look Clear: Body mocked up on the chassis: Next I Made up seat belts and attached them to the seats:
  7. Next was to get the fiberglass chop texture on the under side of the body. Again, there is another thread in the Q&A section about that decision. But bottom line, I thought I'd settled on gluing a drier sheet to the body and painting it. But the dryer sheet texture was a bit over scale, and gluing it to the irregular shape of the body proved difficult. So I found some Rustoleum textured paint and sprayed over it with gloss black. I think it came out great!
  8. Time for another update: Steve's hood has a different shape than the one in the kit. His buggy has a more rounded front and has a raised center detail.This is not Steve's buggy, but has the same hood: Here's the one in the kit: I reshaped the nose by sanding it down: Then taped off the raised area. I debated using putty, Miliput and a piece of styrene to make the shape, but in the end I decided to build the area up with multiple coats of primer, and it raised the area just enough to get the detail I wanted. (There's another thread in the Questions and Answers section with the debate of the pros and cons of the different method and my decision process)
  9. Just an update: I ended up using Rustoleum Textured paint , and since I couldn't find it in black, I sprayed over it with a Testors Gloss Black. I think the result is closer to scale than the drier sheet would have been, and it was easier to apply than trying to get the dryer to conform to the irregular shapes:
  10. I appreciate all the suggestions. Each method had its pros and cons. In the end, I chose to use the primer build up because, as stated, primer is filler primer, and also, I could sand it off if it didn't work. I did cut a piece of styrene in case I needed to try that, but my concerns were a) the hood is compound curved, and b) I was concerned about the longevity of gluing such a large piece to a flat surface. I think that it would separate and lift over time. I don't believe that even as thick as the primer is, that it will have longevity issues. I applied it in thin coats and gave each coat time to tack dry. Rolling out the Milliput might work, but for such a thin piece I think it would be hard to keep it from breaking apart or tearing during the process. Again all the advice given to me so far has value, and I will have them stored in my trick bag for future projects. Thanks again!!! I can tell you how much I have learned since joining this forum!
  11. Here’s the result of applying about 20 coats of primer to the center section
  12. Thanks guys! I am going to try the primer trick first, then try the styrene sheet idea if it doesn’t work. I already cut the piece out, but as mentioned, the compound curves make that option a little more challenging.
  13. I need to put the hood beauty line shown in the 1:1 photo onto my Manx hood. I plan to build it up using putty. Which would be the better option? The Testors Contour putty, or Milliput? I think the stuff in the tube would be easier to work with but it seems like it sands off too easily. The Milliput might not stick directly to the plastic. What do y’all think?
  14. That’s not at all how I pictured Clovis’s log truck when Jerry Clower told his stories! Looks great!
  • Create New...