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AaronM

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  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/12 or 1/20

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  • Location
    Canberra AU
  • Full Name
    Aaron Mihe

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AaronM's Achievements

MCM Regular

MCM Regular (3/6)

  1. Progress has been continuing. Once the split chassis had cured together I ran a bead of thin cement over it and gave a jiggle in the hope that any small gap sections would draw in the cement and meld together. Then after that was sanded off a skim of putty applied. More sanding and it looks and feels really good. Priming will be the real test. The rear bulkhead had a couple of ejector marks filled and had been sanded flat. Front bulkhead ejector pin marks and some roughness from the mould has been filled and sanded. The opposite chassis side had a small sink that matched the filled sink on the other side. So this got filled. I’m less concerned about the underside as there’s a batter door in there too! The two halves and their insert pieces could be glued. The bulkheads used to hold the shape but not being glued in yet. Ducts glued into the nose cone. A sink/deformation across the tip was also sanded out. A little filler to help integrate the finish of the ducts Sanded to the bits that count. Test fit of the cockpit inner.
  2. Following on from my recently completed Lotus JPS Mk3 build I thought I’d pull out my very beaten up box purchase from last year. The box is falling apart, and it has no manual so this will be fun. I did grab a copy of the manual, but it’s for the later non-motorised version. Oh we’ll make it up as we go! Doesn't look good in there! So many loose parts! But nothing loose in the box so hopefully the bags have caught it all! Step 1. Glue the snapped piece together! I’m also experimenting with time-lapsing this build. https://youtu.be/WyDGyQ8DGyM
  3. The clear coated body sections. Decal application has some issues but I’ll wear it. overall fit and finish is pretty good and in a couple of weeks (after a few more hours in the dehydrator curing the clear) I think I’ll be proud of it. (And it’ll have been a 4 week ish build)
  4. Started the process of final assembly now that there’s been a few weeks of curing.
  5. Progress has been slow while giving paint and decals curing time. I built the functional Jack body sections being taped in place for Decal application. Built the wheels Body fit for me seems pretty good. Decals were a struggle but have come up mostly OK. I will start clear coating the bodywork so it can cure. Then paint inside of the body and finally get back to work on assembly.
  6. Just ordered the “old box” version of this Kit. So watching with interest Would you share some of your colour choice plans etc? I will probably do mine with a black chassis etc as was the fashion of the period.. The instructions are delightfully vague
  7. Headers the next day were done and ready for paint. Primed prior to being painted flat white with a transition to flat black at the collector. doing rough fits of the body sections sanding some of the bits that should be flat to work out what isn’t flat. Fitment between the fixed and opening sections needed a lot of fine tuning. finally baking on some primer. Royal Blue time - I’m using SMS Advance Royal blue rather than the Tamiya. They appear to be identical colours but the SMS is more readily available local to me. In the sun it’s a very nice blue. another tray ready to bake! Also been working on some of the smaller pieces for the interior.
  8. Being Christmas Day I’ve been doing a little bit here and there between eating and drinking. Ended up trialling a few grey ideas and decided to stick with a basic “Grey” gloss. It’s on the darker side but I was able to find a couple of period correct cars and they were a few different shades of grey. This would be right on the fringe of too dark, but not unbelievable. I used a bit of panel accent to highlight some of the separation. The headers have been added to through the day. Both sides are unique. Although they follow the same basic shape there’s a few different kinks. Each piece takes about 10 minutes to do rough prep on, test fit and then glue. Tomorrow they can come off, get a finishing sanding and I’ll start painting. That will near finish the engine and gearbox under the rear suspension comes together. In parallel I’ve been working on the fit/finish of the major body sections. In particular the rear and front clamshells to their respective central body sections. Out of the box the fit is not great. But with clearancing it’s actually really good for a 1970 scale down of a hand laid 1960’s fibreglass body. At the moment my biggest concern is making room between the elements in their closed state to have a layer of paint. Lots of filing. My intention is to get the fit set right on the bench. Then when eventually the fixed elements are mounted to finesse the fitment on the moving parts before finally painting them and finishing the model.
  9. Been flat out the past few days so only touched this today for a couple of hours. Sprayed the base AC12 Bare Metal Silver on the chassis and significant chassis components. I’ll next paint the steel elements in a grey/white mix to give very light grey. At the same time I’ll do some washing over some of the panel sections to give that differentiation of materials. It won’t be perfect but it will be interesting. On the arms, I suppose I could do a metal finish on them, but for now I think the black will actually look better as all the various metal finishes don’t visually seperate well enough when scaled down. Added the fuel lines to the carbs and started the exhaust build. In a few hours I’ll set the second pipe on each side, adding pipes over the next day when the previous pipe is set in position. Then pop them off the engine, final sanding and paint.
  10. I like making things hard for myself. The grey piece started life as a solid wedge of plastic with circular depressions to represent the speed holes. After making the effort to drill out all the other ones on the bulkhead I guess I had no choice but to do these. The problem as such, was drilling them out wouldn’t really give the effect of anything except a deeper depression as the piece was solid. So a grabbed a file. Ultimately I filed it down to a flat 1mm with two legs remaining at the back to set the angle. In progress. Now set in place it gives a critical sense of depth and “nooks and crannies” in that area. Most of which will be completely hidden when the radiators get installed on their bulkhead! Also. The Engine fits.
  11. Yesterday I finally got to do some painting. The instructions call for the engine and Gearbag to be Falt Black. I settled on Zurc Obsidian Black which is similar to a gun metal finish. The metallic is very fine so it just as a light sheen to it, this sprayed over a car body with a nice gloss would be awesome. The detail is great, although the sink under some bits sucks. The inside of the tub got a coat of Zurc Black Primer, this has minimal filling capability but gives a great uniform finish to see imperfections. Drilled out bulkhead was very much “the right move”. I have to touch up the filling on the side pods. Not a huge amount though, the ejector marks in their filled start and the old file scratch will give the surface some detail. With the upper section of the front bulkhead held in place you can see I need to drill out top section as well, the upper piece is drilled through, just the upper surface of the vertical portion needs drilling. At least from this point I can start assembling the engine. In true Canberra fashion I’ve had to order some paints because nil-stock. This may pause elements of the build.
  12. I may have mentioned cats a few times. Mostly when I’m down in the study I have a co-worker (also work from home a fair bit thanks to the pandemic). But he also participates in builds. it’s does make the build process interesting. The there’s the time when I’m obviously making poor choices
  13. One down! This is the front lower arm. Circled is the moulded pin that is used to locate it for the regular build plan. You can barely see there’s a shoulder to the pin as well. First I cut off the pin ends leaving the shoulder that gives the total width needed to fit between the bulkhead sections. Then drill a small pilot hole down the middle. (0.9mm left hand drill) Then using a couple of steps up in drill size I end up at 1.4mm where my circa 1.3mm “bolt” is a snug fit. Shoulder is a bit clearer now. Test fit in the bulkhead. With a bit of zoom action you can see how important keeping that shoulder is. Otherwise I’d have to shim the arm. Slip bulkhead into the chassis, put arm in position, slid in the bolt. Winning. Now to do the upper arms, the other lower arm, smooth out the notches in the tub, then final sand the bulkhead, glue that in place. Also have to make the bolt head detail and glue on the “inside” of the bulkhead. That’s going to be huge if I get that done today.
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