Hondamatic
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Posts posted by Hondamatic
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11 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:
Could a 3D LS conversion kit be coming soon?
I hope so. Been asking for someone to make the LS4 and everyone thought I was crazy
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2 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I use Elmer’s white glue as well, and haven’t had much problem with it.
There are a few things to watch for.
Thin the glue “slightly”.
50/50 is way too much.
If I’m starting with a teaspoon of glue, a couple of drops of water is enough.
If you’re applying the glue over a solvent based paint, such as enamel, it can have the tendency to want to draw away in some areas, leaving bare spots, but if you continually brush the glue over those areas, eventually, they will remain covered.
Work in smallish areas.
Don’t try to do the entire tub floor in one shot.
The glue needs to remain wet enough to hold the powder, so if you work in too large of an area, it can begin to dry too much in some areas, causing the powder not to stick.
Find at least one place where you can “divide” the tub in half so that you are working in a small enough area to prevent drying too quickly.
Mask off areas that you do not want covered in powder, work quickly, and remove the tape immediately after the powder to prevent pulling off the glue and powder as it dries.
Remember, you can paint over embossing powder if you should choose.
Steve
You! Your models are what makes me wanna do better! I watch these videos and they just say to glue and toss on the powder, but thank you for going more in depth. I do have off brand white glue, or you think that may be an issue too?
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1 hour ago, peteski said:
I have not uses embossing powder but I suspect that the problem is that the glue you are using is too thick (viscous) and too dry for the embossing powder to adhere. At least failed attempts are easy to clean up (unlike stripping paint). Maybe try diluting the glue with some water to make it thinner, then sprinkle the powder over that. But do not make it too runny.
Most times i thinned it with water, this time was straight, but both with similar results. Someone else said thin with isopropyl alcohol?
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Id hate to make a new topic for this, so im sorry. So for years I've been trying to flock my interiors with embossing powder and it never seems to cover well. I would use this Mod Podge and brush it where i need it, and then shake the powder over it. Im also not sure if the glue layer has to be perfectly leveled (no brush marks) I cant seem to get it right and im not sure if im missing something in all these videos and posts.
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Found this kit at a used store, Tamiya metallic blue. Fixed the headlights using the custom lights from the AMT 65 Chevelle wagon, but didn't realize the cut lines for the front pan were wrong until after paint
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15 hours ago, bobss396 said:
I'm sold on the new gasser version for sure. I'll have to unload the couple of AMT kits that I have. I do like the AMT body however.
I think Fremont? Makes an altered wheelbase body for the Moebius kit
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Very cool stuff! Can't wait to see what other 70s stuff you come up with
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@Wylde I gotta put in an order soon too. A lot of good stuff
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Yeah I love these things too. Some kits from the 80s came with these proportions, but with stock style bodies, and these guys would make their own bodykits and mods. They're pretty pricey now though. Some these are modified regular kits, and I saw some articles in a Japanese model magazine where they showed where the cuts were to get these proportions
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4 hours ago, Can-Con said:
Um, OK, I've never been to either L.A. or Vegas but isn't that the Vegas Strip, not the Sunset Strip?🤨
But, anyway, nothing there I don't already have but it would have been nice to see the new decals in the '53 Ford pickup
, , and they didn't mention the mini-tubbed bed in the Elky , , Again. 🙄
Maybe it's the Sunset Strip in France😬😅
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6 hours ago, Stef said:
Right you are, Michael. Me personally, I'd be totally OK with whatever hood/fender vent/grille/dash combo they come out with. As long as they still have the common IMSA-esque rear bodywork, Night Prowler-specific front blisters/air dam, Thunder Z-specific hood/front bodywork, and Super Z race bits, they might be able to reissue all versions. Might be a tough business case to consider backdating and/or tooling up new parts for the different versions.
In the meantime, Luka Cee did a really nice comparo of these MPC Camaros a couple years ago. Enjoy!
I have an unbuilt Night Prowler that came with a model lot I bought and it has always bothered me that the front and rear fender treatments on that one don't match
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On 4/22/2025 at 1:10 PM, Stef said:
Agreed, Luc. But even though I've got 6-7 years worth of stuff to build, I will not hesitate to snatch up a lotta these up-and-comers, like the 60 Chevy wagon, 65 Backaruda, 72 Demon, and squillions of others. I recently spotted a STREAKER in the wild, and my time to pounce is NOW.
I think if I built a car every week, it'd take over 5 years to get through my pile. I better get to work
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3 hours ago, dino246gt said:
I had one of those horrible kits, the '55 so I built it as a car from Cuba! The brothers sold the rare side trim for enough money to bondo it up and spray it blue in the back yard! They use whatever parts are available to keep it running, it's NOT numbers matching, LOL Cheers!
That's brilliant
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47 minutes ago, stitchdup said:
it kinda makes me think it should be filled with cookies and i dont know why as nothing in the artwork is related to biscuits
How about a sewing kit?
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8 minutes ago, stavanzer said:
Did you move the axle forward?
It looks great!
On mines, yes. These always looked weird otherwise, that's why it took me a while to build it
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Revell 68 Charger, box stock except the redlines from their Daytona
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Shifted the front axle on this one so it'll look a little better
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36 minutes ago, 1930fordpickup said:
It looks like the highlighted areas are painted to match the color that is highlighted by it.
Just wasn't too sure on the shaded stuff. I was thinking flat black, because of the lower flag, but I saw silver at the top in a vague area too
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I know you should do whatever you want with model kits, but I always thought the revell 54 highboy looked so tough so I wanted to paint it as instructed, but I found this copy of the original sheet and I don't understand it at all. Any ideas?
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I figure it would be ripe for making a tow truck out of
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5 hours ago, Stef said:
Hien, DUDE! Look at the sparkle of that blue, just wow! Everything you do slays me! Your trilogy of 64 Galaxies, your Datsun gasser pickup, and others I'm forgetting off the top of my head. So true, many of these kits, including my Gloria, do NOT have chrome bumpers, while on the box art, looks like they could be/should be chrome. I've been watching this guy on Youtube, T Garage (https://www.youtube.com/@t-garage/videos), and he's built squillions of these kits. In some kits, parts are plated, and in others, unplated. Seems kinda random, so I like to watch his videos to know what I can expect when I get mine, heh.
You've got quite the squadron of gorgeous Skylines there; a very nice collection that has me peanut butter and jealous! Love your custom exhaust pipes, and your black/grey 2-door is giving me Big Dart Energy! Would love to see more pics of these, if that's OK with you!
Beautiful work, Nigel! Your Gloria is soooooo clean, and that body/interior colour combo is sweet! Hope mine turns out half as good as yours!
Love your red one, too! This is embarrassing; I forget the name of this one, sorry! Did you camber the front yourself? The stance is killer!
It's rainbow flake nail polish!
You're right, I built the car in B029 Barracuda style
When unsure whether the bumpers are chrome or not, check 1999.jp for pics
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My one gripe about these cars is that they usually seem to lack chrome bumpers (the chrome tree in other versions unplated here)
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Hopefully better tires now
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Hopefully this one comes back
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Flocking/ embossing powder not covering
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Do you tamp down your powder? Or pour it and let it sit? I think some glues may be glossy, so they look bad through the powder