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Force

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Posts posted by Force

  1. Yes I got your email the other day, It will usually take about 8-10 days but now with the huge ammount of Christmas mail this time of the year it will probably take a bit longer... but I'm so eager to look at the products so I nearly can't wait. ;)
    I'll let you know when they arrives.

    Thanks a lot for the fast service and it will most likely be more orders comming your way in the future.

    -

    American cars has allways been big over here in Sweden, they were sold new here up to the early 70's, more sparcely after that, but many American cars has been imported from the US the last 20 years, so we have lots of them around...I got a 1964 Ford Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe with a 289 and C4 imported by myself from California almost 10 years ago.
    Drag racing, muscle cars and 50's cars are popular and I grew up with them so my interest in US cars origins from my childhood.

  2. I also have an old order from some years back with him that not has been filled yet...also paid in advance through Paypal.

    As I said, I haven't heard from him in about 3 years...so I have given up and don't expect to get anything...if I do it would be a big surprice.
    So I believe my money also are lost as too much time has passed since I paid for the order.

    It's sad as he had good quality castings and was great to deal with when I bought from him the time before...well you learn from your misstakes and this time it did cost me 62 bucks.

  3. Well most highway trucks has air ride rear suspensions and this kit has the Peterbilt airleaf suspension so it allready has air bags, if you want it lower you have to modify it slightly.
    In front they usually put in an axle with more drop and lower leafs, but there are also air ride suspension available for front axles.

  4. The "late" Revell Funny Car chassis wich has a one piece main frame was even earlier than the Olds FC's, John Force Castrol GTX etc wich came out in 1989, the first issue with the "late" style chassis was the Monogram Don "Snake" Prudhomme Wendy's-Pepsi / Dale Pulde Miller Warrior Trans Am and Billy Meyer Chief-7-Eleven Mustang from 1985.
    And as Revell and Monogram merged in 1986 the Funny Car kits after that can have Revell or Monogram lable but most of them are issued under the Revell name until 1998 when the last issues from this same base tooling with Firebird bodies came out.
    The "early" style chassis from the 70's was reworked from a multipiece casting with the chassis main frame in two separate pieces to a one piece main frame...I don't exactly know when they did that but I have both types in my stash, and both are Chevy Monza's.

    Revell also have the old Monogram Snake/Mongoose-Cop Out etc FC chassis and the recent Hawaiian and Chi-Town Hustler FC chassis (wich has there own versions) from a couple of years ago, but there isn't many aftermarket parts for those.

  5. Does anyone here know where I can get good looking well detailed Holley 4160 series carburators with side hung floats?

    I need some sets for my 68 Hemi Dart and Hemi Barracuda Super Stock projects and as the carbs are very visual on the model the carbs Revell provided doesn't meet my demands by far...they are as far as I'm concerned junk.

    The carburators I'm looking for is not the more common 4150 series with center hung floats, the only carburator legal and correct for a 68 Hemi Super Stock car is the 4160 series.

    I know Matt Conte at Dencon Resins had a very nice looking resin 4160 that I wanted but I wasn't able to get any before he closed up shop.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  6. There was no such thing as a 409 turn into a 427 motor. In 63 the Z-11 package was just all aluminum front end, bumpers,grill,hood,fenders and a over size came called the Z came.

    The motor rating for 63, 409/409hp 409/425hp rated but really pushing 450hp, Diffenernt heads with aluminum intake and the radicatel came pushing the 409 to over 500+hp rated.

    The mistory motor was a complete different motor in all as it was the early 427 and between all of them that was made there was no interchange parts between the motors. This means if you had

    two of them nothing could be switched as they was trying a ton of new stuff all in each motor for nascar only.

    This car that you are doing and you have read it right was just a "What If" car, Hayden left Chevy at the early part of 63 after they left drag racing and this was the main thing as

    to wonder if Hayden and Chevy still was in drag racing in 63 what he would have been driving.

    The first Chevy 427 was indeed a modified 409

    http://www.348-409.com/z11.html

    The "mystery motor" was a whole other beast, it was loosely based on the 409 but looked like the later 1965-forward Rat motor, nothing fits between the mystery motor and the rat motor tho'.

    http://hotrodenginetech.com/chevrolet-427-mystery-motor/

    http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0611_chevy_mystery_motor/

  7. I used the MCG photo etch kit for Revell's 55 Chevy kits on my AMT 55 Chevy build, the Revell kits are 1:25th scale so it fits quite good.

    I cut out the kit grille from the surrounding, painted that with Alclad II Chrome and put in the photo etched grille in from behind, you have to modify it and cut off the upper corners as it's slightly too big there, but it works fine.
    For a more correct look you should cut the upper bar loose at the fender edges and attach it to the hood, but I didn't do that on this build.

    55Chevy4small.jpg

  8. I'm a little late to reply as I have been busy with other things.

    But as many here have said...and I myself...nitro and alcohol aftermarket engine blocks för drag racing purposes has no water jackets, not even the early Donovan 392 based 417 that came 1971 and the early Keith Black 426 based block that came 1973, they are solid blocks to be as strong as possible and that has been the way ever since.

    In the early days they used iron production blocks wich of course had waterjackets, later when the aftermarket blocks came they still had water jackets in the cylinder heads to cool them...and in many photos from the early to mid 70's you see one water filling neck on each head, but they did away with that later and the heads are also solid billet pieces machined from a lump of aluminum and they use the large ammount of fuel injected to the engine as the only coolant nowadays.
    I have seen the process myself when I visited and got a tour of the John Force Racing Headquarters in Yorba Linda, CA in 2003 (before he moved everything except administration and museum to Brownsburg, IN), I was told that each cylinder head took 40 hours in a CNC milling machine and further 8 hours of manual work on it to get a finished product.

    However, this is a hobby where we build models and you can do whatever you want with your model, so if you want your engine to be watercooled that's okay with me, who knows, you could have an aftermarket block with water jackets specially made for you...no one can tell the difference and mostly everything is possible...it's all up to your imagination. ;)

    The Sid Waterman Mega Bertha fuel pump from the first photo in this thread is a bit "overkill" for a salt flats engine as it pumps 116 gallons per minute @ 600 PSI of pressure and would drench any engine except for a nitro motor, but there are smaller capacity pumps you can use instead, they looks like that but are a bit shorter...and are red.

    Waterman (and some others) also has belt driven fuel pumps and even cable driven fuel pumps wich allows you to put the pump virtually anywhere on the chassis..

  9. If it's a gas or maybe even alcohol burning engine it's no problems at all.

    And you can cool a Nitro engine with water if you use engine blocks and cylinder heads with water jackets, they did that in the 70's.
    But modern Nitro and Alcohol engines used in drag racing don't have any water jackets, they are built from solid billet blocks and heads machined from large pieces of aluminum and it's only the large fuel volume injected in these engines that cools them enough so they don't melt...so even a Nitro/Alcohol engine is liquid cooled, but not in the same way.
    The problem is that an engine block with water jackets is not as strong as a solid block so you have to reduce the power quite a lot to get the engine to stay together as Nitro is hard on parts, and I don't think it's possible to run a Nitro engine for some length of time under power other than the few seconds a drag race lasts without failiure to something...and Nitromethane is very expensive as Dale said and a modern Nitro engine uses more than 15 gallons in a sub 4 second run.
    So yes, it can maybe be done, but I don't think it's either practically or economically justifiable to do it.

  10. For stripping chrome, I've found that Castrol Super Clean (aka Purple Stuff) works well. On some older stuff, you'll need to use Easy-Off once the chrome is gone to get rid of the laquer that is o the plastic.

    I have tried Castrol Super Clean on chrome plated parts and the plating dissappears in minutes and you'll see it go away if the CSC is fresh, it takes a bit longer for the laquer but it will remove that also as CSC also removes paint...at least it did on the plated parts i tried it on (Revell) and I left them in a couple of hours and the result was bare plastic.

  11. Nice build Pavel.

    I had the same idea for improving the rear wheels as you use on this one when I bought my Revell (ex Monogram) Kenworth and Peterbilt Snap kits some time ago,

    I haven't built them yet but I didn't like the shallow look on the original kit wheels so I tried Italeri outer rings and it looked a lot better...so that's what I'm going to use when I build my kits too...I don know wich tires to use yet but that will for sure clear up when I start the build.

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