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Posts posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. When r these commin out?

    I gonna bet they'll be hobby store exclusives 'cause if they sold these things at Michaels or K-mart, ppl will think these are some lame I-crapp games to shut up their ADHD 4-yr old. Trust me, at AC moore, some kid was lookin at a model kit and though it was some Xbox game... Sad isin't.

  2. Here are the "California Wheels" parts - cool, large diameter wheels, alternator, custom valve covers and air cleaner:


    Those wheels do look pretty sweet when installed on other cars, but on the tri-fives they look a tad out of place. They shoulda at least put the "20 mags from the '69 GT500 kit on there to give to a more triditional hot-rod look

  3. Odd they left out the stock tires. I don't recall if the previous California Wheels issue of this kit (yellow box art) had the stock tires or if those were only in the original stock issue...

    This is a rerelease of the Cali-wheels kit, which didn't have the del-rays stock tires to be begin with.

    The first 2001 stock version only had those parts, but are hard to come by. Better off getting the '56 Nomad (which was just released this month), and use the stock tires (which were the ones the del ray used at one time) from it to make a stock Del-Ray. You could still build two kits from what you got, as the Nomad is a true 2-in-1 like the last issue was.

  4. Just got back from there... my former Big-K locatiom hada tona kits, huge display, mostly cars (a good things for us :) and a few Star Wars kits... quite decent selection and amazing prices!

    They had:

    '70 Plymouth Superbird

    '80 Ford Bronco

    '85 Mustang SVO

    Corvette C6 and ZR1

    '63 & '64 Impalas

    Dodge Viper SRT10 'vert and ACR coupe

    '67 Chevelle SS

    '69 Mustang

    '98 Saileen Speedster

    1/25th '70 Dodge Challenger

    '68 Mustang

    '10 Mustang GT, GT500, and '10 GT convertable snapper

    Lamborghini Diablo targa top snapper and the VT in the classic crusers line

    '58 Impala

    all the '55, '56, and '57 Tri-Fives they've currently have out

    Classic Crusers kits like the '32 Fords, '82 Corvette, '37 Ford, '55 F-100, Plymouth Prowler, VW Beetle, '64 GTO

    '06 Dodge Magnum, Chevy SSR, and Aerovette (weren't those discontuned years ago?)

    '72 Olds Cutlass and Hurst 442's (the first one I got)

    Monogram SSP reissue kits such as the Street Fighter, Ice T, and T'ranchula.

    All the glue kits were $14.99, Classic Crusers were $11.49, and the snappers were $9.99!

    They had more in the diecast car isle, but they were the same ol shat they had for months... with the $18.99 tags on them.

    I got the Olds Cutlass 2-in-1 and some quick & easy primer all for $25! what you would pay at the LHS just for the kit alone.

    This is NOT a holiday thing, some locations still have model kits, most with very small slections while others may have squat. Check your local stores around your aera.

  5. I built one of these about 4 years ago. IIRC, it was the J/L issue w/ Diecast car K-B had for $2.00 before they went under.


    Nothing fit at all!; the sloppy ased nosepiece and shoddy decals were the worst parts of the kit. My dad made me get it for the J/L diecast car being they go for almost $8.00 new. (and he's a big collector of them, along with hot wheels and matchbox)

    However, with some creatative thinking, I was able to MAKE something halfway stellar out of it by simply discarding most of it's contents, aside from the body, body parts, and interior; and using the frame from the Revell '69 Charger and engine compartment from the '68 GTX. Along with combineing two Mitsubishi Eclipse 4-bangers to make some crazy DOHC V8, but failed at it.

    Oh boy, did it need alot of smoothing and filling out!!! This one was my first experience using putty and while the results were mediocer, it did look better than it did just slapping the parts on like the boxart car has.

    Unfortunitly, I messed up the paint while applying some gloppy metallic purple, so I took some paint thinner to it. While it was very effective, it melted the body because I found out the hard way paint thinner is too powerfull on styrene. So I scraped the rest and used some of the parts on later projects.

  6. Last time I picked up a can of Tamiya at Hobby Town it was over $7.00 ( no price tag), The guy at the counter said, "If you have to ask, " bla bla bla.

    My LHS is around $6.50 for the colors and $8.00 for the primer. Some other LHS's around me charge between $9-17 for the colors and primers! Due to the issues getting them, and their distrubitors raiseing the prices because import fees went up and such BS.

    I get Tamiyas colors ocasionaly, but I have tried their primer once and it's pretty good. But not that great for $9.75, and then the amount you get?! I get identical results from the Sears Primer and could obtain 10 cans of it for about $15, and have them last a couple months.

  7. From what i've seen, it looks like a repop of the 1994 issue with new decals. Not a bad thing certanly, but for the price I was expecting them to at very least retool the engine compartment and add bits from the 78 pick-up the released not too long ago. But that's just Ms picky-Rachile speaking here.

  8. Hey Guys. Incase yer out of tamiya paint and can't find it, or want to try something thats just as good or better and cheaper. LOOK HERE!

    This is the folowing paints I use

    Sears "quick 'n easy" primer (costs $1.69 at Sears Hardware or K-Mart) is awsome stuff. It is the best primer I have EVER used!!! Sprays on even and somewhat thick, but drys smooth and dosen't craze the plastic!

    For the base colors, I use the 99. Wal-Mart/Color Place paints and the Krylon spray paints sold there too for the desired color. Sometimes I use Valspar and/or Rustoluem paints.

    For sliver painted parts and sometimes bodycolors, I use Dutch Boy ($2.79 at Sears Hardware) and Rustoluem sprays.

    For the metalic/specal colors, I use hobby paints such as Tamiya, Testors one coat Lacquer (which can range from $4.99-$6.99), Rustolouem, and/or automotive paints (which are around the same price range or less).

    Instead of using testors or tamiya base primers/base color paints, which are extremely pricey for a base primer/paint (Yeah, saw that topic. Made me feel like not the only one going with cheaper alternitives). I use the big cheap sprays (from wal-mart, Sears, and/or anybody that has those type of paints cheap) for the base primer/color coat, then (if I want) the hobby paints for the metalic/specal colors.

    For polishing, I use good ol solid white toothpaste (don't get the transparent sparkle stuff) and a rag to polish the painted body/part to be futured.

    For a clear coat, I use Future Floor Wax (also know as Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Real easy to apply with foam brushes or q-tips and if you mess up, I heard you can strip it with windex.

    For applying brush painted parts, sometimes q-tips work or buying a cheap brush set from michaels, trimming them and being done with them or clean them.

    While the Testors sprays are no good (cept the Lacquers) and being Tamiya bottle paints run from $5.50+, the Testors small bottles (and the model masters) are still good for what they are if you can get them for 50%off.

    Incase your paintjob goes in the other direction, you can use Purple Power as it's the safest of the bunch and very effective on most paints (wear gloves anda mask though).

    Hope this helps.

    Be well all


  9. AMT's 63 IMPY does come to mind. Why, cause the 2003 issue I built (and thankfully only paid .50 on clearence for) looked like an imp!!!

    Revell's kit from 2000 (and recently issued as the Cali-wheels 2-in-1) Is MILES ahead of that 'ol POS, though the only thing wrong is the molded head/intake manuifold that gets ploped ontop of the engine. But using the '64's parts solves that issue.

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