Posts posted by RickRollerLT1
One time (bout 2006) I bought a AMT F&F Mitsubishi Lancer, upon inspecting the contents there was (molded) chinese writing under the body and chassis. Also on the bags the parts came in there was random giberish printed on it.
IIRC, it said something like:
DOGH FHADFSH GUDFNDNFE CATAS HUGNE CUNDH ADAHSTU GONG HUNSD DFHFTI ITNNFI GNFDBHG INSAS INGO IGFHFH PORGAH JNHUN
I'm not kidding, thats what it really said. I just remembered this because I saw the box eariler today.
I had a pic of it, but it was on the old camera (awfull unit BTW) and it prolly went to the garbage not too long ago. I had it on the old (horribly SLOW!!) windows XP also, but we deleted all of our pics from the old camera to gain RAM and Megabytes. So basicly it's gone, even the baggie because I get rid of all unuseable kit material (DOH!!), and the kit also. Due to maingleing parts from it because it was so horrid!
Wish I hada Hobby Lobby in Long Island...
Well, theres one in NY state, but i'm NOT driving up there JUST to get somethin at 40% off when it would cost more in gas than to just get it at a shop near me.
Best place to buy it would be from a club member that sells stuff or needs to get rid of his junk for cash.
I've heard some ppl mod the frame and engine compartment items from the Revell Dodge Ram VTS and wack it under the Dakota body/interior.
For the engine if you want stock or close to it. I would prolly start with a 340 and mod it with an F/I setup (or whatever they used back then), fan and ignition system from a 90s Mustang GT, and a Transmission from a 90s Ford F150 or 90-97 or 99 Chevy Silverado.
Yesterday was our L.I.A.R.S club meet, and there was an auction to help fund our show in November. So I got a Revell Turner series 80's VW Golf 2-in-1 for $15 and a Revell Ford Edpedition Snapper for $10.
Itsa been a while since I posted on the fourms (noneoftheless this topic), due to life, starting collage, and working on many long stalled projects - among other things. Though on the otherhand, I've got alot done that i'll show off if ina few days if you care to see.
So anyways, did I miss anythang?
Getting back on subject. I was at a Michaels store 'bout 2 weeks ago, and I noticed they did another reset in the model department. They had the folowing in:
AMT '70 Camaro Z28
Chevy USA-1 Monster Truck (the 1/32nd snapper version (Sigh )
Dukes of Hazzard '69 Dodge Charger
And... that's it!
They also had som Testors enamal sprays marked at .10 still on the racks (i'll let em sit till the end o' time!!), but no new lacquers yet. Not much new, but better than what my store did (only a plane and a Donk '69 Charger diecat! ( )
I plan to check out what the other stores got in, hopefully more than mine and the one by the mall.
Oh BTW, K-mart has all spray paint now at 60-75%off...meaning to us modelers, a good cheap scorce for paint (well, whatever you can get that is).
Funny thing is when I was at K-mart, they had a Revell '09 Challenger marked down to $19.97 but it's orginal price was $20.27! So (in scarcastic voice) you only shaved saved .30, what a deal!! NOT!
TNX for the help!
again, sorry about that. I thought it would be kinda funny to mention that as it really happened, but yer right as to some ppl may not like that stuff along with young members. My bad, but hey we'll all learn from out mistakes.
Which version of the Krylon Crystal Clear is it that you use? The Normal stuff or the Triple Thick Finish?
BTW, I absolutely HATED Testors High Gloss Clear Coat. Messy, horribly tempriture-sensitive, and on every single can I bought!
Edit: Sorry about that gag. It's something that I happened to notice, and I thought it would be a tad funny to post here. But after realizeing what I posted didn't sound too good for som ppl, I decided i went a tad overboard and I edited it to keep the mods happy. Hey, we all get kinda carryed away with that sometimes so we'll learn.
I saw it at my LHS for $62 when I was there Tuesday, I might get it because it's different and the price is median for a 1/12 (unlike $120 for that 1/12 32 Duece reissue, Jesus!!), but something tells me I shoud wait for Michaels to get it in ( AFTER 3 FRACKIN YEARS THAT IS!! (LOL ) and use a 40-50% off on it, because if i get now and they have it later on i'll be peed off over it!
Hey Joe, how much more does HT charge for it's plastic kits? Does it vary by store or is it a set price at each outlet?
I just got the Testors Decal set a few days ago, tired out the software on my computer (have to upgrade to the standard edtion disc because it won't let me make my own disigns, GRRRRR) made up a test licence plate and printed on the decal sheet from from my printer.
But here's the question. Is the Testors decal bonder spray any good? or is it garbarfage like all there other spray can products (cept for the lacquers, which are good for what they are).
Does Krylon make something like it that I can afford or get anywere? (and that DEFINITLY works) Because even if the testors stuff is good or bad, It's pretty hard to get over here because most LHS's don't carry it like with the decal set or sheets (had to hav it ordered for me by a trusty LHS). Also, most online retailers charge waaaaaaaaaaay too much for just the can alone even with shipping.
Looks smokein! Finish it!!
Humm ,,, Ya know ,,, I never really thought that much about it before but I bet there's almost all the parts in the latest reissue to build both, a stock roadster and the Mod Rod.
Far as I can tell without actually going down stairs to look in the box, I don't yhink you'd need much more than another windshield. Almost back to two kits in one box.
It's not just the windsheld I need to build it, it needs the front nose pieces, pick-up bed sides (though I could prolly make them), and bumpers (if it had any). I could get away with useing a 32 ford grille/nose for something different.
I could prolly find parts i have on hand to make something out of it, but if I really need something i'll give ya a PM. TNX anyway Steve, and thank you for the info!! Lots appreciated!
BTW, how is the New Tool Ala Cart from 2001? Is it good, bad, or is fussy/innacurate/ihatethisPOSthrowitaway bad? Can someone post pics of it's contents and differences. Which brings me to another thought, if they're both 1/25th, will parts from the new tool Ala Cart adapt on the orginal tool?
Also, if any o you guys have any funny/weird/crazy/sad/feel good stories regarding manficturing errors in sealed kits you bought. Post 'em here!!
That's not a "mess up" Those parts have been in most of the reissues but just not mentioned on the box or instructions. The '32 rad was added in the late '60's "Mod Rod" version.
The Ala-Cart released in 2001 is a completely new kit, nothing in common with the original kit at all.
I remember seeing contents of the 1984 and 1990 issues of the Model A, and they did NOT have the extra ala cart parts like my 2002 issue does. That's why I assumed all issues after the double kit version deleted the parts, but I could be worng
I Didn't know there was a version of the model A that had a 32 ford grille as an option. Thought it was an odd tooling mixup like the super bee parts in the 05 issue of the GTX.
The ala cart from 01 was a new tool? I thought they restored the orginal parts and issued it seperatly, but prolly molds and castings were lost or damaged. How was it anyways? Good, bad, or innaccurate?
I just picked up a 2002 release of the AMT '29 Ford Model A Roadster (the one with a cream and tan car on box) for $12.
Opon opening the box and baggies, aside from the custom parts mentioned in the instructions. I found an extra body, hood, frame, interior, windsheld, front & rear suspensions, plus an oval "swiss chease" shaped slotted grille (and surpirseingly, a 32 Ford grille (WTF??), and a convertable boot that look like they belong to the Ala Cart kit that it shared its parts with the Model A in the 1963 double kit, but was (I t'hank) deleted in the later issues of the Model A. Later on the Ala cart parts were restored and released as a seperate kit in 2001.
Overall, I was really surprised that this kit had Ala Cart parts because I paid only $12 for something I could get 2 kits out of. But here's the downside....it's missing a whole lot to build it like the nose, pick-up bed parts, bumpers, headlights, chorme do-dads and etc (it does have the Hemi engine though, sans the tri carb parts). Oh well! Maybe i'll track down a builder or started 2001 issue for cheap hopefully.
If Round II plans to reissue the 29 Model A again in the near future, expect these extra parts to be gone (possibly for another seperate issue of the ala cart) and for them to charge $27.99 for each one, along with making golden tin versions for $50.
Other manficture screw-up stories (good and bad) I had are a revell 58 impala with 3 extra chorme trees, a rsx with a part of it's body missing due to a "Short shot", a 98 trans am in the Motor city muscle issue that had 6 sets of the low-pro tires I kidd you not! (made the parts bin happy for a bit).
And now for the worst... a AMT 69 chevelle that the first one I bought was missing the chrome tree & custom bumpers, and then the second one had a TWISTED frame! Luckly I had the frame from the other one or I woulda been SKREWED!!!
Michales usally charges the Manfictures SRP on their kits, though some kits they carry are more (no more than 25) while some are priced a few dollars less.
Though Michaels seems expensive, check their weekly circulars and website for their magical 40-50% off coupons to bring the price down to a more reasionable cost.
Hobbytown USA while they carry more items and prouducts for the hobbiest, are waaay more pricer than msrp (from what i've heard) because they need profits to keep up and stay alive. Rarely i've seen them have any sales of offer discounts. we used to have HT USAS many years ago on the island, but then they all dried up because they were horribly overpriced and couldn't keep up with the other LHS's and retailers that carryed kits at a lower price.
As per the NEW 5-photo rule, more pics on this next post:
BTW, if anybody has been expereinceing problems with photobucket (which i have), the problem is that all the (rather susgestive and outright dumb) ads that play on the site, which 99.97% of the time cause it to jam up to the point where I have to close everything out, reopen and reupload EVERYTHING AGAIN!!!!! IT IS SO ******* ANNOYING!! (took me an hour to post this; yeah thats how bad it was)
Mods: Scratchbuilt the bed and overhead bar, added lightbars ontop, compartment boxes under the frame, and mudflaps (w/licence plate). Streched the frame with a spare one from another Cameo kit, and added suspension units from a '93 Caprice (front) and a peterbilt 359 (rear axle w/ airbags). wheels are from the revell 70's GMC wrecker snap kit with front tires from the aftermentioned caprice kit (rears are what came with the wrecker).
This was the '57 Chevy P/U street machine (as per the engine and sidepipes), but I had extra parts from a '55 Cameo, so i used those parts to backdate it to the older model (which I like better stylewise).
Paint is Valspar Yellow cleared with future and polished with toothpaste.
Second is the Pro Street version built OOB, cept for different front wheels because the ones it came with had big holes in 'em... Like someone took a dremil to it because they were pizzed that day or something like that.
Paint is Dutch Boy Sliver Polished to aluminum and is futured.
Group photo (5th and final photo!)
Hey guys. Sorry it's been a while since I posted anything, was busy with life and things . My sister had the camara back then so i wasn't able to get pics at the moment... now that shes don with it, I can have at it again.
OKAY DOKAY then! First up is the recently issued Caliwheels version built OOB back in april. Nutin' speical about this one, cept I didn't have to modify anything! This one was perfiect in terms of ride hight, wheels, good looking motor and etc.). Final assembly is kinda tricky, but doable with trimming and such.
Paint is Colorplace Gloss Black (works like a charm for .97) with future ontop, and polished with toothpaste.
For those who shop at K-mart (all stores) they put all their spray paint on clearence. For now it's 25% off, but expect more markdowns soon as it's a storewide thing... Good time to stock up while it lasts!
Are they permenitly getting rid of the isle alltogether? or are they getting in Rustoluem and Plastikote products to replace it? If their gonna stop selling paint alltogether, it dosen't really bother me because Sears hardware has more of what I need (primers, slivers, and etc) anyway. Unless they change/redo their slection, then i'm in trouble.
That's no longer available, as Sears discontinued carrying paint about a year ago, and K-Mart has went to carrying Rustoleum and Platicoat.
I know the regluar sears stores don't havea paint section any more, but sears hardware and K-mart do and they both have the "quick & easy" line at their stores. I last picked up some primer at sears hardware a week ago with fresh stock, so they're definitly still produceing them.
I dunno, maybe the stores in your aera don't carry them anymore because making money off hot, teen idol products is more importaint to them.
The Dollar Store (Dollar Tree) sells their own water-based cleaner that I've found to be every bit as good as Purple Power, Simple Green, etc.
It's yellow in color, called, "La's Totally Awesome".
For the unbelievable low price of a buck, you get the best spray bottle I've ever found, with little grippy ridges at the top that keep the bottle from sliding out of your hand when wet, filled with 20 fl. oz. of cleaner. The refill bottles are even larger, but don't include the sprayer.
I've been using one of the sprayers for about six years now and it still sprays as good as it did when new.
I've used the cleaner to de-grease automotive parts, as well as household items.
That's good to know, but sadly i don't have a dollar tree near me.
just curious, but what is SEM? sorry don't mean to bug anyone.
Whats best for strippng krylon
in Model Building Questions and Answers
First off, did you use a primer underneath the Krylon? If the krylon was applied with a primer under it, you could be able to save it by dunking it in CSC or purple power for a little while, till it's soft enogh to scrape off (only use DOT-3 if ya REALLY need to, because it takes about 7 weeks to get the paint soft to remove it). But if it was applied to the bare plastic or if the primer badly etched it, ya may have to kiss yer bodys goodbuy unless you apply Easy Off (which smells awfull BTW - use at yer own risk!!).
For using said materials to remove paint, make sure you work ina well venaliated aera along with eye protection and gloves. Cauz things can get really nasty if ya not carefull!
I've allways had problems with krylon untill I switched to a different primer that didn't etch the plastic, so if the primer you got (if being used) is giving you problems, i'd switch and experement with other brands to see what works best for you.