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Mustang II custom


GerN

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Taking the big leap. Warning: I'm old and slow - really slow. I will try to stay focused on this build, but no promises about how fast it goes. Started with glue bomb (almost free, at least), but couldn't get all the paint off. Oh well, I'll be sanding most of it anyway.post-2610-0-27746000-1343263010_thumb.jppost-2610-0-37987000-1343263033_thumb.jp

I plan to use a Porsche top to replace the warped Mustang roof. This is one of my castings that was not a complete success.

Since this is my first try to attach photos, I'll pause here and try it.

Photo 2 shows new attempt to cast just roof.

Now to try from Photobucket. Parts so far. Plan to use Porsche flat six converted to water cooled with old fashioned supercharger.

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OK, failed with Photobucket. Back to my trusty Canon A590.post-2610-0-99117500-1343263652_thumb.jppost-2610-0-02676300-1343263621_thumb.jppost-2610-0-22678900-1343263693_thumb.jppost-2610-0-18539100-1343263793_thumb.jp

The chassis I copied from a Fox Mustang convert - another nearly free set of two pieces. Final pix shows translucency of casting. Thanks for looking.

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Modified Porsche engine for shorter stroke and set it and 427 Cobra tranny for molding.

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Fixed most of warp in body; put roof on; shortened my cast Fox chassis; started work on wheel openings. Large fingernail clipping is trim from front wheel opening.

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I like how this wheel looks with the Nitto Lambo tires, but no decision yet. Red blobs in background are engine and tranny in first coat of RTV. Sorry about that last pix - I didn't mean to include it.

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Edited by GerN
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This isn't a radical custom, rather a mild restyling to make the Mustang II a two seater and a decent looking car. The Fed-bumps have to go. Copying a Howmet turbine rear to replace them. My uncertainty now is how to do where the C pillar meets the fender, and the blend of the fender into the trunk lid. Maybe a sort of 68 Stang thang with the fender tops horizontal aft of the peak of the wheel opening. More pix:

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Thanks for looking.

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Still moving forward! No small thing these days. Pix shows new front pan, newly cast engine and trans, and shortened chassis. Also more done on fender flares. Have decided I like the separation of rear fender from c pillar - closer to what I want. I think the blend of c into fender on the M II, echoing the source Pinto, was one of its worst features.

And hopefully the flares also give mine a little more character without being too boy racer.

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More pix! As you can see, decided not to go with supercharger, but 4 barrel instead. Scratched manifold, cast carb, painted engine. Moved starter mounting about 180 degrees around trans. Painted shortened chassis casting and started to modify to fit flat six. Started flares on passenger side. I think I'll stick with roughly this rear fender treatment; I think it suits the overall look and I'm happy with the rear 3/4 view.

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Here are a few of my favorite tools for customizing: a Dremel converted to use a multi-volt adapter - no more running out of charge, and better speed range; a Beauty Secrets nail file (absolutely wonderful, just hit it with my brass brush and its like new); an adapter chuck which didn't work properly with my Dremel, so I put it on an old Xacto handle covered with tubing; finally, foam-backed cloth sandpaper (really nice for curved areas).

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The Fox chassis is too flat for my Mustang II - not enough suspension travel for a decent ride. So I stepped it just ahead of where the IRS diff will go. Quick and dirty, but the bits to follow should hide much of it. Thanks for looking.

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Interesting. It looks a lot like a Datsun 240Z from the high rear quarter views. Looking forward to seeing more.

I didn't think of that, but you're right. Here's a comparison:

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I'm eliminating the Mustang coves; hate to, but it looks better without them. Engine is coming along, but its a lot of fun trying to get the chassis to accept it.

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SSNJim, you are correct - a lot of similarity, especially from that angle. Just noticed you're in Bowie - you must be aware of the Maryland Automotive Modelers Association?

I've given up on the flat six. I got it to fit, but replacing spark plugs would have been too difficult. I now intend to go with a straight eight (have to be different), to fill up that nose. Probably use side draft solex carbs, one throat per cylinder. Also started adapting Fox interior to M II.

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Customs are so much fun . . . I've also given up on my chassis. Found an old mold that looks good, but I don't know what it is. Copy is usable, I think. Copied the Solex carbs from the Nitto Lambo (I've also copied the Gran Sport Corvette Solexs, but I think these have a bit more detail). I'll use the cam covers from the NL as well for my straight eight (I know, high speed vibrations, but this is a custom). In this pix you can see my mold for the wheels and a tiny bit I made to go between the cam covers, once I do eight copies of it. Hope my copy of the AMT Ferrari 250 SWB grill will work.

Thanks for looking.

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Working on the new engine, I had a real doh!! moment. Pix shows how I started gluing segments from the Nitto Lambo engine to form a straight eight. Then it hit me: cut a groove in the bottom of the NL casting BEFORE cutting it apart - presto! - easy line up for gluing back together. Do-over time. The spark plug well segments came out OK. I used EZ clay from WallMart; under two bucks and works well for this type of casting. After a quick cleanup of the grill casting, I tried it on the M II - maybe I'll replace the original grill area. Don't want to overdo the customizing, but this is tempting.

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SSNJim, you are correct - a lot of similarity, especially from that angle. Just noticed you're in Bowie - you must be aware of the Maryland Automotive Modelers Association?

I've given up on the flat six. I got it to fit, but replacing spark plugs would have been too difficult. I now intend to go with a straight eight (have to be different), to fill up that nose. Probably use side draft solex carbs, one throat per cylinder. Also started adapting Fox interior to M II.

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Couldn't resist slapping some paint on it (raining outside and I don't want to spray inside, so, the big brush!) Still trying to move the rear fender peak forward a little so its over the wheel opening. Decided to go with my cast Ferrari 250 grill. Nose is now probably too long, but I'll stare at it for awhile before doing anything. Thanks for your patience.

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Redid spark plug plates (like valley cover) and put Solex carbs and intake cam cover, etc together.

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Cast enough so maybe would get eight good ones.

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Progress (I hope). Ready to put most of new engine together. Cast solid block for ease of work. Pix also shows original taillight piece, my mold and first casting attempt. Drilled out a disc brake, made mold, will now start casting brakes. Now satisfied with chassis - its a press fit!

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Hopefully you can see where I used a new technique (for me) to smooth join between shortened chassis halves next to end of drive train opening. 5-minute epoxy, sprinkled on plaster (Durham's - my favorite), then pressed with a finger. Easy and leaves a nice texture. Thanks for looking (sorry I'm so slow).

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  • 2 weeks later...

The chassis had a warp that didn't respond to heat and force, so I used an umbrella rib (Dollar Store) to straighten it.

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Yet another DOH! moment. I put the exhaust on the wrong (driver's) side of the engine. The chassis wants it on the passenger side (see photo). So, I've started engine number 2.5. Here are engines 1, 2.5 (eight cylinder only rates a half), and the beginnings of 3.5. I was so disgusted, I decided to treat myself to starting a new car. Of course, its a glue bomb (check the glue left on the frame). Fortunately, most of it came apart pretty cleanly. I'll open a new topic if it goes well. Actually, I looked at engine 1 and thought, I can do something fun with that. I promise to resume the Mustang II once I have the Austin in rough primer.

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Edited by GerN
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