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Posted

I was trying to do some spot painting on a body

painted with Tamiya acrylic clear. I let it dry for 10 days and

decided to do some touch up work. I used Tamiya tape and

any other tape I could find...the result was riuned clear.

When I remove the tape it leaves a rocky texture that is hard to polish out.

What am I doing wrong?

Posted

Blue 3m is for latex, wall house paint. Use the 3m lime green tape. If you can, put down a pinstripe line with a tape like "Jammy Dog" and then use any old tape to tape against it. You need to use a good quality fine line for your break line.

Posted

Clear coat is absolutely the last thing I do to a model. Watch Dr. Cranky, he won't even handle a clear coated model with bare hands. He usually pushes them around with sticks.

Dale

Posted

I was trying to spot paint a little area that I wasn't happy with. I was painting scallops and was

trying to remask one to do over. Obviously the clear should be last...my fault.

I even called Tamiya and they said the acrylic clear is not for top coating. Strange...what else

would it be for? I do love how they're clear comes out though.

Posted

I'm using the acrylic clear (X-22) from a bottle, not the spray. I try to keep everything water-based to have a toxic fume free

workspace. I can get a glass smooth finish with it.

Posted

Maybe they meant it wasn't designed to be painted over? I haven't been able to buy their clear for some time now. So far, I haven't found anything that I like nearly as well. :( It's strange that their semi gloss and flat is still available,but not the gloss.

Mr Hobby Super Clear, great stuff

Posted

I'll give Mr. Hobby clear a try, thanks for the tip.

I just picked up a food dehydrator...maybe I can dry the clear coat to make it more durable.

Posted (edited)

Blue 3m is for latex, wall house paint. Use the 3m lime green tape. If you can, put down a pinstripe line with a tape like "Jammy Dog" and then use any old tape to tape against it. You need to use a good quality fine line for your break line.

thanks Jay you just mention it, i jut realize i am using the blue 3M which is for latex for the masking job

but never ruin my clear coating....

i always use Mr hobby clear on washing job which is to protecting under layer when i wash up upper layer....

but for the body shell paint job i always use automotive grade urethane clear with hardener... it give best protection for the paint

and leave you worry to use auto grade polishing compound... like Meguiar's, turle wax. and any other brand

at least it work for me....

Edited by Cien1986

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