Calling all Blue Oval fans

[charlie8575]

I'm starting to put together an AMT '67 Cyclone and some of the painting instructions on the instruction sheet and the (very) few photos I can find online have me wondering about some things.

1. Was Ford still using red oxide primer? Especially since I'm planning on doing this in Burgundy, it'll be important.

2. Similar to a Chrysler product, should the unitized body floor be simply primed with a little overspray on the edges?

3. The pictures in some of the cars I've seen appear more gloss black than semi-gloss black for the inner fenders and firewall. Feedback?

4. I'm guessing the suspension and subframes should be the U.S. industry-standard semi-gloss black?

5. I'm going between red and saddle for the interior. Does anyone have a suggestion for a paint that will replicate the saddle trim? For red, I'm planning on Testors Flat red for the floor and gloss red with a little flat black added to it to darken it slightly and to give it a slight shine, as the red seems a bit bright from the pictures of ford's red interiors of that period. The interior parts are primed in gray.

Any ideas/tips appreciated.

Charlie Larkin

[highway]

Charlie, I can't really help on the other questions, but here are a few suggestions for the saddle interior. Depending on how dark it is, you might think of using one of these two.

This is Testors Custom Lacquer Interior Tan for the bottle,

and this is Testors Model Master Leather.

I have also used "Make It Suede" Buckskin textured paint for tan interiors, and it is a little darker than the Testors CL tan, but I don't have a pic of it right now. If you would like to see it, let me know, I'll get a pic for you.

[whale392]

1) That year could be either Gray or Red oxide....there is debate as Ford started a switchover in that year range.

2) Yes, just like Mopar, you will have primer with the edges oversprayed.

3) Not really sure..........best bet Semi-Gloss.

4) Either Semi Gloss or Gloss for the suspension bits. Also, Ford left some of their rear-end housings natural finish, which quickly became rust colored.

5) I use Testors Light Tan and then drybrush Sand over it for Tan/Saddle interiors.

[Swifster]

I'm starting to put together an AMT '67 Cyclone and some of the painting instructions on the instruction sheet and the (very) few photos I can find online have me wondering about some things.

1. Was Ford still using red oxide primer? Especially since I'm planning on doing this in Burgundy, it'll be important.

2. Similar to a Chrysler product, should the unitized body floor be simply primed with a little overspray on the edges?

3. The pictures in some of the cars I've seen appear more gloss black than semi-gloss black for the inner fenders and firewall. Feedback?

4. I'm guessing the suspension and subframes should be the U.S. industry-standard semi-gloss black?

5. I'm going between red and saddle for the interior. Does anyone have a suggestion for a paint that will replicate the saddle trim? For red, I'm planning on Testors Flat red for the floor and gloss red with a little flat black added to it to darken it slightly and to give it a slight shine, as the red seems a bit bright from the pictures of ford's red interiors of that period. The interior parts are primed in gray.

1) Charlie, I'm working on the same model. My experience has shown that the primer isn't really a visible character of the car. This isn't something you see on the underside of the car.

2) I've asked this on the AACA website regarding the 1:1 Comet & Fairlane models, and I was told no. I've tried to find a shop that specializes in Ford restoration but have had no luck. Every Ford from the 60's I've looked at has minimal to no overspray on the underside. The semi-gloss black is the factory E-coat.

3) Most of the engine compartment, suspension, etc., as well as the entire floor is semi-gloss black. I've recently looked at two '65 Mustangs and they were semi-gloss front to bacl with no overspray. I have the 'dog house' and the chassis, short of the interior, shot in semi-gloss. Obviously some things will be a little different (radiator, fuel tank, etc.) color. If you are really anal, you can put the serial number on the upper left corner of the radiator support (sorry, it's the insurance adjuster in me).

4) Yes, semi-gloss on everything. The rear springs may be natural steel, but I'm not positive.

5) My idea was white with a white & red interior. Watch the dash panel. Even with the white interior, the dash on mine is suppose to be red (lower) with a black crash pad. I think you'll find your's should be the same way. I primed the chassis and interior floor with gray primer myself. The white is more of an off-white with red inserts.

One area to watch is the top of the firewall. The area where the wiper motor is should be the same as the exterior color of the car. It's the only part of the engine compartment that should be exterior color.

I'm new to all of this, but I'm very familiar with the 1:1 stuff. I'll be watching your build while I do mine.

[impcon]

if the all original '67 fairlane that I used to own was any indicator, then the whole underside of the body is pained body colour. I do not recall seeing any primer anywhere. The floor pans were the same colour as the up side of the body.

Inner fenders, rad support and most of the firewall are all satin black. The top of the firewall should be body colour - that is from the bottom of the windshield on down under the hood to the body seam that runs across the top of the firewall aboutfour or five inches from the top. From there down to just under the front of the transmission tunnel, everything was satin black.

Springs would indeed be natural metal and the fuel tank was a sortof a galvanized type finish. The top of the gas tank was a part of the trunk floor and if yours is not going to be covered by a trunk mat, then it is the same galvanized kubd if finish - IF you are opening the trunk, that is.

Hope this helped.