LarryT

I was just looking over the posts and noticed this question....all those models are 1/25 scale...this build started is 1/16 scale and I never worked that scale before now...in fact I have just recently taken an interest in building drag race cars when I followed the Pro Mod build of the XKE...for me that was a jaw dropper and pulled me into attempting the large scale, but with recent builds on the 57 chevy pro mod turbo it has inspired my interest to build that style of engine for these cars I have in mind. This Willys build has had such a bad start I would feel better if it were closed and an new beginning made...I just don't know forum procedures...in fact I don't usually attempt forums as I'm not comfortable with moving my cars around to photograph them...had one roll off the stand doing a move to photograph and lost all that work...L3

Hello everyone, I've had some medical problems that stopped my building anything since I couldn't use my hands. I do have use of my hands now but have found parts supply for the 1/16 scale car are not available. I have decided to change the build to a 1/25 scale and see if I can produce a car that will be enjoyable for everyone. I still want a pro mod build and like the looks of the Willys...so here is what I have in mind. This car image was found on the Mad Modler site I was attracted by his building a Fiat Topolino custom car. This build will require me to alter the looks and the engine will be the hemi but turbo charged...remember the scale will be changed to 1/25 and I'm not sure I should start a new forum just for that build...and don't know how to close this forum...any suggestions would be helpful. LT

Just came in for a short visit as I'm having health issues that demand my time and don't leave me able to retain a long thought span for now....I do appreciate all the advise and suggestions...so to answer Comp1839 I feel it is best to build for fun. I gotta go now...

They may look wrong for now, but don't worry Chris will make it look right L3

I'm sorry for the delays, but I'm still trying to gather materials and some parts for my car...too explain further I have yet to have the front tires that fit my front wheels so I cannot establish the wheel base even if I had the jig materials, but I do plan to start the jig construction the moment all materials are present...in the meantime I'm working on drawing ideas to define how the jig will look and what it must do (what specific dimensions must be held at all cost). it is one thing to build a jig that secures tubes on a flat surface, but another to position these tubes on a 3D surface off the table top...not being a jig/fixture maker it is a by guess trial and error construction...That is what happens when building only kit cars your entire life....now trying the real big boy stuff. I have seen modelers build from simple layout drawings (they make it look easy) but having build a couple of boats in my day I now how crazy things can look (twisted keel to bulkhead alignment)...and that hold true for tube chassis construction...so I feel a jig is the safe plan. Hope you all can bear with me and will keep you posted from time to time. L3

Hey fellas right now I'm burning time trying to gather materials for the chassis jig, so I don't mind cross chat till the build gets started...The fixture jig is really no design of mine since I found it on a site that makes drag race car chassis...I modified the design to suit my build scale and simplified some areas...again for my type of construction...the chassis jig holds to the centerline as the primary point of reference to all additional equipment...It hold right angle support to the centerline reference at full width of fixture which will be about 5 inches wide. it has an overall length of 10 inches to cover the wheel base and cockpit construction and past the rear end...but it doesn't reach back to where the wheelie bar will reach. The chassis has a base made of wood, and topped with aluminum plate that is a bit thick to permit some drill and tap holes...this also will make that part of the fixture stiff and sturdy for any other future use. the over all width of the base is wider than the metal plates so a sliding rail can be used to handle upright support for elevated structures. down the center of the base is a cut groove that is the centerline and forms a t slot when the metal plates (strips if you prefer to think of them as being) one on each side of the groove. Enough on this fixture talk I'm tired and seems to confusing to rattle on when the construction starts (soon I hope) you will see it's not as complicated as this sounds. Oh my wife's computer keyboard went out so I must share my keyboard and this means my only time to respond is when I get home from work...she is asleep and I can use the board to answer mail and respond to post. L3

My type of racing was sand drags... no tire burnouts since we used high flotation paddle tires with plenty of traction the idea being to get on top of the sand so you are launching from a dead stand still deep in the sand where you must explode coming out of the hole and get on top of the sand quick...the race is 300 feet long and it's over in the blink of an eye. Funny thing when I was getting the car ready to install the motor in my mind I thought would have to have hood clearance problems what with high rise cab and tall (8 inches tall) air filter system Ha the engine sits many times lower than inline six that was in the original engine package and 50 lbs. lighter...of course no ac, power steering, or accessories where on this vehicle. The real treat is watching the hill climbs...I saw a blown and injected hemi powered cj5 type jeep body on tube chassis altered... idle speed with the drivers feet on top of his windshield ledge to the center of a dune that had a real honest to goodness 70 degree incline and 200 feet tall...he stopped put his feet on the gas and exploded out of the hole and over the top of that hill with no sweat...most people trying to climb that hill take a running start from the bottom of the hill with speeds near 40mph and barely make it over the top...some don't even make the top. If you stall on a hill you can roll over (vehicle will always get sideways if you attempt to back down) so must turn around on the hill if you're sure it's a no go to make it over the top. Sand is a different world of fun and you rely on centrifugal force to stay up right wihen making a turn out, or spin the large holes created by the wind in the dunes...scares you when the vehicle slides down like your going to roll over then the energy kicks in and your stuck on the side of the hole going at high speeds around the rim. It's just fun beyond words to describe it...then there is the desert at night...the stars are so many, and you could hear pin drop a great distance. Actually I miss that when I think about now. L3

Chris, I have been lurking around and following your build for some time...you are most creative and setting examples that are hard to follow but will be fun trying...I have enjoyed watching this build to see the finished car, but you add more and then I want to see what else will follow...love your work. L3

Dave, I will build this car to ADRL (extreme pro mod...PX) rules. Now for a "say what" questions, but first understand my last participation to anything called drag race had no Nitrous (still used on propeller planes), roots blowers were two size...big and small. In the sand boxes I played in the big boys monster cars just taking interest would bring out these bad A's cars that when they pulled up next to your car...would make your car topple over on it's side if they punched the throttle. Yep I was one of those cry babies who couldn't afford to compete against that kind of money power. Mickey Thompson's fuel system alone, probably cost more than my cars building cost. So I don't know is nitrous used in gasoline only class? I did want to mention the first posted image showing the cheetah with theme logo...that is my start of the paint foundation but modified on the car body will have an appearance more like this. (must image how it will be stretched from the front of the hood till the clock wraps around behind the side window. I have not developed Photoshop skills to the level of putting this design on the car body...perhaps someday. Oh the cars upper body i.e hood to upper fender edges is alclad chrome based with clear red top coat, and lower edges of fender to follow around the clock is a contrast color (still a wip) this will also carry across the front of the car below the cheetah face location. L3

By PSI is meant the screw type blower, I have the FPM 526 engine kit, but having to spend time squaring up the block, heads and manifold...nothing fits really well. I may seek another engine and switch the blower and manifold onto another long block engine...that is still a WIP search. I have some sheet metal coming for the jig fixture and when a few more parts are together I can begin to construct the jig online. My interest is Nitrous and blown combination which I'm not sure it Nitrous works on alcohol and gasoline or just gas. I will have to find the rules for ADRL and Outlaw Pro Mod as this will help me refine how to build this car to my taste. Thanks for all the info Dave. Mitch I too like the Pro Mod cars the moment I saw someone say they run Nitrous on a supercharged car...actually I like the idea in the real world to run Nitrous plumbed to directed the 750 PSI nozzle spray onto the intake turbo blades and spin a turbocharger into an almost instant boost mode...that way they could run a large turbo with little to no lag yet have much needed volume of fuel air boost. Need a big waste gate to control the instant blow. Larry

Dave I prefer having fun with the build, and will make an effort to build the chassis to the rules as that would seem correct to both...but for this build it will have the PSI blower and Nitrous Oxide which will take it out of NHRA class. If I understand this correctly. L3

Ha all this time I thought the revenge was a 1/16 scale car, and that would make it an outstanding build...I will have to find and re-read this build again...Mitch sorry for that miss information...I personally thought it was a 1/16 build LOL Brett thank you for the search engine directions and will work on it later. New Zealand wow what a beautiful land you live on. L3

Mitch, black beards revenge is 1/16 scale construction by Clay Kemp and I followed that build and put on a disk (lost when I moved) like so much of my equipment...hate moving. There are a few you should check out like XKE Jag pro mod cut up a couple of smaller scale jags to make a to scale Pro Mod car and it came out very cool, and he even weathered the chassis construction...by John Teresi, and there are others who do exceptional work sometimes hard to put that kind of detail into 1/25 scale. Perhaps someone can provide the answer to a question...I have tried to look up cars on this forum...knowing the name of the builder and even the car, but unable to get a match on the forum search???? How do you use this search engine to find builds by a member on our forum???? L3

Mitch, and Cameron, thank you for the links and there are so many really fine builders on this forum it does make my feel the tension to get this right, which I know my capabilities and feel the ability is there, but presentation is the weakness...I have not built step by step online and must find some way to have my photographic equipment ready on notice complete with lighting. The process I understand but how to choreographer this ballet so no one has to wait till the next freeze thaw happens to see progress that I'm just not use too. All that said I will do my best and try to keep everyone happy with not too slow, and know it won't be too fast...lol There are questions that have come up: I saw on this forum the simply stated rules for PM class and in those rules were no screw type superchargers allowed??? If this is true I must get another blower and manifold, for I have the FPM 526 hemi with PSI blower. Just to be sure I need to find out if supercharged is permitted nitrous assist...seems to me I have seen other builds with nitrous on supercharged engine setup. Just getting tired and need to nap before work tonight. L3

Sorry tor not being clear, and will try to approach this from the bottom line...It's a question for myself and to all: what can if anything in anyone's opinion help promote interest in for now 1/16 scale (to me this is large...to some this may seem a toy size). For price since I was asked what would I pay...if a rather complete kit much like you would get from Revell, but hopefully with Tamiya quality...twice the cost of Revell due to quality and this just being my opinion. But let me reverse this question and ask what should a modeler expect to pay for any kit keeping in mind parents are the ones that usually foot the bill for the young crowd and they won't pay out the cost of a real car for a kit.? In addition to that bottom line, todays providers of parts and I speak of cars only, not meaning to offend those who build other models i.e: bodies, engines, or other related components. Provide parts that are less than well expected when you lay out what for me is a good amount of money and yet must spend a great deal of time not just filling holes or removing flaws...but squaring up and even filling to add material to bring the shape back into scale so other parts will fit on the existing component and look right. I'm not seeking this to become a flame, nor do I like to promote conflict so I'm not going to continue to add anything as it was just a question...confused though it may seem, and I hope to have made it more clear...if not there is nothing else I can add and must remain just my thoughts. L3

Mitch, thank you very much for that information, and I don't see a link to follow to the pro mod build. Yes I was working the machine shop for Phil Weiand we did just about everything...even had one of the first ever ir cross ram quad webber sidedraft carb setups of sbc engine...it was cast in magnesium and Fumio had to smooth out the rough casting inside the ports (not mirror...just no rough casting surface to cause turbulence in air flow) it was a street version setup...The blower today are much improved over what I knew then...infact the whole thing has improved overall...when I was doing tech work at Chevy dealership in Waco I saw a more recent block, or was it head??? for a sbc engine, and either the lifter gallery. or the rocker arms were staggered???? I didn't get a chance to study the heads, and was curious if they had improved the port flow by lifting the port angle (hi-port design) it would be obvious since the intake ports would get more into the rocker arm gallery than a normal head. that would give a reason to offset the rocker arm in a similar to bbc staggered rocker arm features. That hi lift I mentioned was first applied to a formula one engine and produced more than 700 hp from a sbc normally aspired engine. I look forward to seeing your construction on the 57 chevy I'm sure I will return to building the 1/25 scale, but for now I must do this scale as time is a factor...just not a lot of it these days. L3

I have avoided large scale model building because of cost...now determined to build one large scale in my lifetime I have spent the money...but coming from model kits manufactured by professional companies that use precision molds made by professional machinist craftsman this non professional stuff for the most part suxs. Fighting what all you the fine modelers I have seen on this forum to beat many of these casted parts into something near what is suppose to be an in scale replication of parts...it may look good but square and precise these parts are lacking in quality... I for one would like to see a big company begin to provide parts and kits for our needs and a little bit of tinkles have shown up, but venders of today don't have to fear competition because that tinkle has not grown...it takes us modelers to make that happen, and we won't go the higher prices that professional companies demand and considering the quality difference must justifiably get for that quality...right now their (big company price) is very much higher to justify the difference so badly needed. What I have seen has been parts or kits that cost the price of buying a full 1/25 scale model kit for details parts or kits that are of at best fair quality of poor fit and tolerance and scale when measured out is very loose terms to call it scale. When I have complained to venders for these observations I get back negative results with them saying it's not perfect but best they had to offer and there is not the market of modelers to support the product...Hence they are no longer offering to our market. I didn't seek them to end their product support because I complain of their quality of lack of it...but this is a two edge blade...for quality modelers would spend more, but no quality is available because manufactures won't produce for the lack of business sales... I like the large scale for detail possible that can be seen at a glance and the price well it hurts and hinders both my productivity and how much I can afford to remain in this scale. It would help me to have feed back from others here on the forum to see how you feel about this topic and hopefully suggestions on how the market could become more attractive to professional companies that would for better prices by raising the quality bar which would make modelers buy their goods and others must raise quality but lower price to remain in the market place. L3

Bob, the scale of these model are 1/25 Revell on the Willys, and Goodguys 1/25 on the 3 window coupe. The Willys was my first play with bending plastic rod to see if I could make a tubular chassis...using a heat gun and or normal pressure bends that would over shot the angle desired until I had the angle I wanted. For this build I must explain some thoughts to hopefully have suggestions...All previous work now aside has never been done step by step online, and I don't want my audience to take interest then sit playing jacks and ball till I post another update since I don't build fast. Reasons this happens: (1) I don't have a fixed camera setup with a large camera (Canon 5DM11, Zeiss 90mm lens and closeup adaptors), also I use computer software to customize the depth of field where I want it if I take that time to do the custom work since this is image stacking I must shot up to 50 images in extreme close up, work, and just don't do things fast to avoid mistakes...which means start it over again; Just like my build theme "It's All About Time". So I'm asking for suggestions how to build in my time slot, yet get updates to you the audience within a reasonable amount of time. 2) I want to make the build represent a qualified representation of a car that would in the real world be a for real Pro Mod technically speaking, and that means I must not be thin skinned for harsh critique, but I trust in the rules of this forum to keep it civilized...I have never built a drag race track car...I have worked for when a very young person back in the late 50's early 60's C-T Automotive then in either Van Nuys or North Hollywood, Wiend in Glendale area Eagle Rock location, various plants that made manifolds or custom race car parts or did exclusive drag race car engine stuff like last job Valley Head Service in Conoga Park area. I did machine shop and machinist work so understand some aspects and what is required in technical language of my day, but I did build my own cars that were mostly Off Road sand or open desert use for dune climb and 300 foot sand drags. (My cars were not winners of awards and lost most races...unless you tried to beat my car on the street scene. That was then and I no longer participate in bench racing...but I do know how to make a bad ass engine that stands up to the winds...for short drag race not quarter mile stuff. so my cams were short duration, big lift and over carbureted, or fuel injected for hill climbing (used chevy fi system) that way I kept in a class suited to my use which was "Competition Modified" class a street legal car used in sand drags. Toyota Land Cruiser with small block chevy installed myself with a kit from an off road speed house. For the initial start when ready to make that move having all the parts required...I will do the steps in fairly big steps thru most of the non tech no brainer stuff for example soon I will have all the parts to assemble the rear end and paint it...short of demonstrating how I obtain my width measurement to assure the tires and wheels fit under the body...it should a quick assembly and paint ready to go so quick update. Now assembly of plumbing or detail can be a good thing to take some smaller steps with...otherwise big should be good opinions welcomed. Chassis never built one in my life...good example of that is the 1/25 thu trying to see if I can bind rod it does show how little I know about tubular chassis construction...hey I was a kit builder until I came to this forum and looked at builds from Mooneyzs (fc), Evilcustoms, Clay Kemp, John Teresi that did I just could not put this off and have to roll up my sleeves and give this a try. L3

Thanks to you all, and the jig will be build in this forum. I have the skills for this project though never before attempted this large of model construction see only samples of two cars I actually took photos of. I was drawn to this forum because of two specific members and their project build. Mooneyzs, and Jonn Teresi among a few others who's works are inspiring and you guys made my mouth water and drove my motivation strait off the charts for me...so I'm here...perhaps a bit early since my most serious parts I have yet to buy. I must get some rest and will be online later today. L3

Future update will begin with the construction of a chassis assembly jig when all the parts are purchased (some parts I want are brass for durability and long ware), but most of the fixture will be styrene sheet and wood. The intended function of this jig is keep the chassis square, in alignment, and flat. It is not intended for accurate measurement though it can hold measured setting once setup...just not intended to have scales or such means of measure fixed as part of the fixture itself. It will be a very simple design just to square up and give support to bulkheads while they are being secured. L3

Justin, you must be an early riser or night worker like myself. I have to learn how to work on forums L3

This is a kit car...looks interesting and nice job on drilling out the holes with your pin drill. Considering your doing a box stock build try to adjust your lighting to provide quality images to show your model at it very best it is mentioned because the engine is not as high a quality as your nice close up shots of the wheel and chassis. Just to know what you use for a camera...what system do you have? L3

At present the introduction of this build is going to have a slow start since I'm still purchasing important components for the chassis example need the front strut and coil assemble. So this build will start with some basics and what I do have in parts beginning with the name of this build "It's About Time" and here is the first image for that theme. The next images are of the body by Flashpoint Motorsports...note the body has been thinned and somewhat prepped with primer coat applied...more about the prep at a later time

I thank all of you for the warm welcome...much nicer than the temperature outside right now at 4:47 AM (just been home from work and I'm tired) Now that the introduction has been completed I will spend some time to see what's going on and likely open the start of the new build with some parts I have and already made preparation to the parts without being online or photographing during the process...Like I said learning to dance is awkward. See you in the Pro Mod section where the build will be presented...L3

My name is Larry but for simplification I will sign my posts as L3. I had established that name as a student to submit my art works with a major in Photography and Art. you can see samples of those works by google l3arts and likely the first photostream will have my real name all over it. I have made no posts and don't consider myself very skilled with online interactions. In fact it was the encouragement of my closest online friend Ted Bowe of Ted's Model Marketplace to sign up (already had been and forgot???) and introduce not only myself but a build that will be introduced very soon for this forum and those interested in 1/16 scale Pro Mod race cars. I'm not new at building just new in large scale as it is called (same thing just bigger). I will keep mention of cost out of the construction but to say here and now it is more expensive than 1/25 scale. I have run aground on some parts for my build...Terry of Flashpoint Motor Sports is not offering some parts for 1/16 scale any longer...and like any persons in this hobby if it must be done it must be made so I will venture into yet another aspect of this hobby...molding and casting parts...I need front runner front tires for my wheels purchased from my most favorite machinist and parts provider we all know him Jim of Micro Nitro. More on tire casting at a later time. While I'm gathering and making parts for my build I will come online to follow others of choice (sorry, but I stick with cars of interest and don't venture astray) I may ask for advice even help when I get in over my head with parts or casting (never done that before) and in general hope you like my offerings as much as I have enjoyed some builds I have seen on this forum you know the ones (XKE Jag Pro Mod, Army Vega fc, and I cannot leave out the 57 Chevy turbo Pro Mod...all very nice builds...Oh before I forget...I have never been very good with forums like a person going to a dance, but don't know how to dance...it leaves me lurking in the background with two left feet when I try to get on the floor. That it L3