explorer2770

Looking good. I too can't build this kit box-stock and love cutting it up to make something different every time. My only complaint about this kit is the way they molded in the fifth wheel, it makes shortening up the chassis a lot more difficult, but your handy work makes that conversion look flawless.

I know I'm about to get 500+ different suggestions on how to build the re-released CH, a truck that I've only heard rumors about and have never built before but now hold in my possession thanks to HL and Round 2. Anyway, I've been thinking about turning this into a 289 to haul a scratch built Hackney or Mickey beverage trailer for a volunteer fire department's haz-mat or rescue truck. Or A 1500 gallon dual axle fire tanker based on the ALF pumper body, but with a front-mounted pump. The only reason I'm hesitant and not fully committing to the tanker is because I don't know if there were any Peterbilt 359's built with a stationary grille with the Unilite cab. I've been all over Tim's website and haven't found anything close to a stationary grille for the unilite cab. I don't want to go to a butterfly hood since I'm only aware of the 351/281 butterfly hood for this cab, but if it was an option, even aftermarket, sign me up for the tanker. So, if anyone knows an answer to my question of whether or not a stationary grille, or even a butterfly hood, was an option (even aftermarket) for a Peterbilt 359 unilite cab, let me know. If not, I'm off to the chopping board to adjust the CH's frame rails to single rear axle. Thanks. Edit reason: posted too soon

Mack R685ST

Thanks guys. I was slightly inspired by my hometown neighboring volunteer department's Autocar/Grumman top mount pumper pictured below, so I'll have a hard time painting this anything other than white. Of course, it was a Freight-shaker, I could get away with red...

I just can't help myself when it comes to mating the Revell Peterbilt 359 with the Trumpeter ALF body, and this long rainy weekend didn't discourage me from the challenge. Of course, I can't just slap another Pete 359 together with the Trumpeter body, that would be too easy and wouldn't provide a challenge. So, I went a little "wild" with this one. I cut up the Revell snapper to make it a 119" SBFA, slapped some diamond plate on the back of the cab for protection, fabbed up a top mount pump housing inspired by Indianapolis FD's ALF top mounts, and heavily modified the Trumpeter body. So here's the start to Engine 4. Here you can see the high-side compartments added on the curbside. These will be roll-up door compartents after I get some more groove sheeting. The Trumpeter body was also modified by raising the hose bed. Unlike the my previous attempt (below) where I raised the hose bed floor and sacrificed the height of the hose bed to use the kit side walls, I changed my tactic this time. I raised the hose bed floor and also raised the height of the body side walls by building completely new pieces. I think this gives the body a better look, but I will still use the Trumpeter dunnage "cover" on the front. It definitely needs putty work on the hood and other spots, but I'm fairly happy with my progress on a 3-day weekend build. The pump panel is a little bland right now since I need to get some impressions off of the Trumpeter ALF pump panel and finish all 11 control handles, and then I can add details to the side panels. Then comes the functional hydraulic ladder rack...oh what fun. Maybe, just maybe, I can get some primer on it by the end of the year.

What about the International CXT? The real truck didn't last long in production, guzzled gas at about 8-10 mpg, it is essentially a 7300 crew-cab with 4x4, Allison 2500HD automatic transmission, Meritor MTC 4208 two-speed transfer case, and 8 ft Ford super duty drw bed, but man isn't it a cool looking truck. It could provide a wealth of options for many builders out there, including as a starting point for any TranStar builders. I know that I'd take the pickup bed off, add a Type IV body, and have myself a nice set of wildland fire trucks with this kit. It couldn't be any worse than the Cadillac Escalade kits, right?

I found a California Hauler at HL in Lexington on Friday and picked it up with the coupon in my phone app for ~$21. Gotta love the app, never have to worry about cutting coupons and it is re-usable. Now I need to figure out what type of fire truck to turn it into...oh the possibilities.

Matt, There are many fire apparatus manufacturer websites that have drawing files in PDF format. Here is a list of some of the ones I check on a regular basis: Pierce MFG, New Deliveries, search for Rescue Marion Fire, search under New Deliveries by vehicle type SVI Trucks, New Deliveries by type Hackney Emergency Vehicles, new deliveries by type Seagrave, recent deliveries by type Maintainer Custom Bodies, stock vehicles only There are other places that make fire trucks, but a lot of them don't offer drawings online any longer. If you don't find what you are looking for, I might have a few drawings saved that could help out, so PM me. If you want to follow with what I'm using for my build, a modified Pierce/FDNY heavy rescue body, send me a PM with your email address and I'll get that to you after I finish up my vacation. Hope this all helps.

Well, here's where my extended cab's chassis work is currently: The helper leafs didn't turn out well, but after 6 tries, I finally just went with these. Rear axle is a resin copy that I made of a Dana 60? with a 1/8 metal shaft, then covered with 5/32 tubing to accept the rear axle from the AMT Silverado 3500 dually. The shocks came from the Revell snap-tite Peterbilt and I used paper clips for the U-bolts. The fuel tanks are scratchbuilt from styrene and have gone through 3 iterations to get the right look. Not perfect, but all 6 tires sit nice and level. Now to focus on the transmission...what was I thinking trying to make these AWD?

Thanks guys. This is starting to come together, if I can keep myself from adding too many details I might actually get it done before the summer is up. Here's the start of the interior. The v-groove paneling doesn't really show up, but the overall look of the roll-up compartments will be better once I finish up the access handles, which will be added after I paint the interior parts. Unlike many rescue trucks, I tend to build mine with roll-up compartments on the interior. It has two effects, it cuts down on the amount of "extras" I have to make, and it also allows the guys to store everything in a compartment. I have plans to simulate an opened roll-up door compartment and add some gear, mainly SCBA bottles and some bags. Now I need to make more SCBA bottles, a couple of bags, and the bench seats. Then comes the interior ceiling...

Greg, I love Conneaut's truck. Any idea if it is still around? And yes, I'd love to have a copy of that truck's blueprints...I have another crane or two in my stash! If only I could figure out which Peterbilt model to use for as a base...maybe Tim could help me identify this one from 1991.

Greg. I'd still love to have a copy of the blueprints for that truck from Conneaut. I have always like that rig and have had plans to make it ever since I saw it in Paul Barrett's Heavy Rescue Trucks, and since it's from Ohio, why not build it.

Charlie, I'm looking at a 1 inch extension to the frame to get the crane to sit inside the area. It should look something like this and still give enough clearance for the crane to move. I might add an extra quarter inch to the frame to give some more swing room for the crane. The back doors are done, just needs some paint. Now to start working on the interior.

Here we go, the start of Gabels Corner Rescue 3. I'm using a Revell Kenworth W900 snap kit to make a crane equipped rescue similar to Fifth District VFD's Rescue 5 (http://www.fdvfd.com/images/apparatus/RESCUE-SQUAD-5.jpg). I started assembling the rescue body which I based on modified drawings of the Pierce FDNY Rescue 1 and have plans to build a simple interior to slide into the body once I start final assembly. I'm not sure if I should paint the Italeri crane before I assemble it, or after I assemble it since most of the parts are designed to interlock, so I need to figure that out real quick. I'm fairly certain that I need to stretch the chassis frame, there just isn't enough room to fit that crane in there without the stretch. I'll wait a little bit, though, to make sure I'll have enough clearance once I finish assembling the crane. Then I can make a couple of other modifications, like long fuel tanks on the passengers side. The paint scheme will be similar to my Peterbilt pumper, overall white with red fenders and red top trim. The crane will be painted red to match the color scheme. Much more to come!

Jim, I'm digging the heavy rescue as well. Fifth District VFD's Rescue 5 is a Kenworth T800 with 2005 Pierce body work and Job Number 15914. If I remember correctly, FDVFD supplied the Kenworth with the crane to Pierce to have them finish off the rescue, but don't quote me on that or the year of the Kenworth. Most of the information I have found suggests that the Kenworth is a 2005, but I don’t have confirmation on that. I know that the Revell kit is a 1976-82 W900 and I don't plan to mark this for FDVFD, so I’m okay with taking some liberties to build a heavy rescue with crane on a W900 chassis. David, West Routt’s heavy rescue looks very nice. I don’t have any FAMBA newsletters, but I imagine the plans aren’t much different than some of the old E-One rescue drawings I have saved on my computer. I still have plans to make some very large heavy rescues, even a trailer drawn rescue, but right now a crane rescue just feels right for this Kenworth. That, and it would give me some practice before I try making an ALF Eagle crane rescue truck.

Guys, I made a huge mistake and need some help. A couple of years ago, I bought a Revell Snap Kenworth secretly hoping that the tires would be different from the Peterbilt kit, but I found out the hard way that they weren't, if only I had visited this site first! Anyway, I decided to make the best of a bad deal and started to make a fire truck out of this kit and went about hacking up the Kenworth, which is a lot more difficult than the Peterbilt kit. After the sleeper was removed, I used the left-over sleeper from the other Peterbilt kit that I just recently finished modifying into a fire truck to make the back panel of the cab. Then, one thing led to another, and I put everything back in the box with the promise to turn it into something at a later date. Needing something to work on while I figure out some issues with my brush truck suspensions, I dug this back out and have decided to finish it up. As it turns out, everything is in the box except what my plans were to turn this into a fire truck. And now after all this time, I simply can't remember what I wanted to do with it. So, I need some help determining what to do with this kit. I have four ideas that I brain stormed tonight, but I can't put my finger on which option to make. Therefore, I'm asking you guys for some advice to help me get this one done. Here's the options that I've come up with: Option 1: A tandem rear axle dryside tanker similar to this one at Evergreen FPD, but in red: https://flic.kr/p/7dLXJc Option 2: A single rear axle pumper, similar to this former Seattle fire truck: http://www.lastresortfd.org/319-E-5-FBc.jpg Option 3: A heavy rescue with a crane from the Italeri truck accessory kit, similar to this truck: http://www.fdvfd.com/images/apparatus/RESCUE-SQUAD-5.jpg Option 4: An early HazMat using the delivery body from the recently re-released AMT Ford C-600 Delivery van kit. Option 5: Something that I haven't thought of yet. Well, that's all I can come up with after think about this build for awhile. Thanks for any insight you guys can give me!

Here's the photos that I took at the meet. I don't have everything, but it is a decent covering of the models that were there. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/explorer2770/library/Photos/14CAR

Thanks guys, I'm just glad this one is finally done. Jim, the hand lines are 1/8 sewing elastic "painted" with sharpie marker. The supply line attached to the hydrant assist valve is 3/4" yellow electrical tape wrapped around some blue ribbon cut to width. The other yellow supply line is 1/4" sewing elastic painted with yellow acrylic paint...which I used my fingers to do.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. There were times over this build that I was ready to walk away from it, but I always found myself wanting to get this done. I have plans to make the predecessor truck, a Diamond Reo with American LaFrance inspired body work, that this truck replaced but I'm currently working on a non-fire related project right now. Anyway, here's some more photos that I took Saturday.

Well, this one is finally done. I finished assembly last night by mounting the Federal "Q" siren to the hood and sent the truck to Owensville for mutual aid standby today. There was a lot of scratchbuilding that went into this build, and I can't even think of half of it. I know that I superglued 200 scale feet of 1 3/4 in hose (1/8 inch flat elastic) for the each crosslay, 50 scale feet of 1 3/4" hose in a roll for the front bumper, 200 scale feet of 4" hose (1/4" flat elastic) in the middle of the hose bed, 150 scale feet of 5 inch LDH (3/4 inch yellow electrical tape) attached to a hydrant assist valve, and then the two hose lays of 1 3/4" hose with one pre-connected to the back. The lightbar is the MX7000 from the Lindberg Dodge Charger police kit and I made the hose bed cover following RevnJeff's lint roller technique from The Scale Firehouse. I want to thank everyone that followed my five year long build of this truck. Now that it is finally done, I really want to do another one, but this time as a top mount with Grumman body work... Oh, I should point out that the truck made the journey up and back to the Cincinnati Challenge without any problems and was displayed with 1/25 scaled copy of the specification drawings I drew up when I was thinking this project over. However, the truck did have a mishap when I was handling it for the photos once I got back home. The rear light bracket came loose so the warning lights above the hose bed are flopping around in some of the pictures and it won't be fixed until I take it into my office for semi-permanent display...no use fixing it if I might break it again before Tuesday. Oh well, live and learn.

Greg, that is a great idea, I have a spare from a partially built AMT ladder chief. Now comes the dilemma of where to mount it?

I can't believe it has been almost a year since I last posted on this build. Here is the teaser photo of the finished build. I'll have more photos after the Cincinnati Challenge tomorrow.

Why of why did Meng decide to mold the kit in black? Oh the humanity. My poor red over white volunteer fire department will never be the same with a safety Black quad cab brush truck. Oh, that's right, I just have to use Tamiya primer or a good sealer between the primer and the base coat. Crisis averted. (Sorry guys, I couldn't resist the humor) I can't wait for this kit to show up in the States so I can order one. I'm going to have to restrict myself, if I start buying more than one of these at a time, I'll never get any of them finished.

There is no truly accurate 1/25 scale diamond plate on the market. The DM product comes closest in pattern, but it is 3 times as thick as the Plastruct and JTT materials. If you have a project that already has diamond plate on it, such as the AMT LaFrance or Trumpeter LaFrance kits, you can copy that pattern using aluminum foil and epoxy. Burnish the pattern into aluminum foil and gently apply epoxy to fill the holes. Wait for the epoxy to fully dry before you handle the pattern. Once it is dry, cut to desired size and then use a little more epoxy to glue it to your build. That way, the pattern matches what is already there. We each have our own build styles and products that we frequent, so finding what works best for your style is a must. DM, Plastruct, or JTT all make diamond plate. I recommend starting with the JTT since it is the cheapest, and if you screw up a cut, you don't end up wasting a lot of money. But that is my own opinion on the matter. I'll get some updates once I get back from break...and the weather finally warms up enough to paint.

Thanks Tracy. The deck plate is Plastruct 1:100 diamond plate, the newest release that you can find in the LHS or their website. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, check to see if they have they are getting rid of their JTT Scenery Products, as JTT sells single diamond plate pattern in 3 scales: 1/100; 1/48; and 1/16 scale and double diamond plate in 1/24 and 1/16 scales. I have some of the JTT double diamond plate in 1/24 scale that I picked up on clearance, which I consider to be too big in size for my builds, but will use up eventually. I used up 2 sheets of Plastruct to make the 2 flatbeds and wish I had found the JTT sooner as it is a cheaper than the Plastruct product.