Union Modelworks

Thanks to both of you for such great replies. Bill, that is great to know for future reference as well. The reason I started questioning this was because of these two photos. Both are Chevy engines of the '60s, yet they use different filters. Any thoughts on why the second engine is not using the standard canister type?

Thanks, Mike. So is it safe to assume that the kit filter was an older style used in the '60s? I've seen pictures of them still in use, so it makes me wonder if they were just the outside and you replaced the filter inside. Unlike more modern filters where you just replace the whole thing. I'm totally guessing, so please set me straight if this is wrong. It also appears that modern filters have a "beveled" grab area near the top, where as these older ones did not. Again, I assume that any newer filter could fit on an older motor as there was no special modification needed to attach?

Can you guys tell me what kind of oil filter might have been used on this truck in the '80s? If you look at what the kit provides (photo below), I'm not sure that it is correct. I have some aftermarket filters that look more modern, but only want to use them if it's prototypical. You'll also notice the big gap between the filter and where it would attach. I have since cut the filter off and will glue it directly without that gap. I'm assuming the kit just doesn't fit well?

This looks like a lot of fun, Pasini. I look forward to starting one of these as well. What is that metal jig you got in the second photo, second post?

It could be the orientation of your iPad when taking photos. Some of the meta data it stores is not always recognized in certain situations which could be why it's showing the way it is. Just keep an eye on how your iPad is rotated when snapping a shot. To correct the photos you've already taken, or photos in the future, look at an App like Camera+. It allows you to rotate and save a completely new file which I believe wipes out all the Apple meta data. And by the way, your model is coming along nicely too.

Wow, really nice work, Marcos. The weathering is great. I dig that oil dip stick too.

Really good information, guys. Thanks for your feedback.

Thanks, Bill. I will look into those links. I do appreciate your time. At some point I will have something to actually show for all the help you guys have given me.

Thanks, guys, I did see that gauge size, but I'm looking for the total diameter including wire plus the insulation in either inches or millimeters. I only ask because different manufacturers have different insulation thicknesses which can make the difference between .01" or .025". One looks like a spark plug wire and the other like a heater hose. I appreciate the help.

Hey guys, So here is an interesting scenario. Now most of us try to remove mold lines from the styrene for a more realistic look, but what if the 1:1 has a mold line too? For example, the exhaust manifolds I'm working on for the '64 Chevy show molds lines on the reference photos I was looking at. Would you therefore leave those mold lines on the model knowing that it could look like an oversight on the modeler's part? Thanks! Feel free to post your manifolds and thoughts.

Thanks, Eric. Do you know the exact diameter including the insulation? Did it say on the package?

@Bill Burmeister: Yeah, I totally agree this will be basic, and I understand that. I'm not trying to put every little detail, but the ones that stand out to me I'm not even sure where they are. And I guess I should mention hoses too. I basically need to know where the positive and negative battery hook to. Where at on the engine do the heater hoses connect. I've seen the photos and it looks like the manifold and water pump, but I'm not totally sure. The radiator hose looks pretty straight forward, but I guess there is a bottom one too. The distributor looks straight forward, but I know that one wire connect to the coil, correct? What wires connect to the alternator? What are the mess of hoses by the brake booster? There are some random wires running across the back by the firewall that I am unsure of. And some other details that are on the carburetor, brake fluid reservoir, etc. All basic stuff to the trained eye, but I'm seriously a car novice. While I don't plan on modeling everything, I do like learning how things work too; thus the reason for asking. Thanks for the summary on the harness as well.

Like I said, if you feel this is redundant, please feel free to remove, or tell me what it is I need to change to make this useful. I basically wanted to start a section so that people knew where to go for specific modeling needs. Personally, it's hard to tell if a part should be purchased directly through a manufacturer, or if there is an online store that carries all product. It would actually be nice to know the main places people go to buy. For example, in model railroading we have Walthers as a major distributor of product. It would be nice to know if there are model car equivalents. I think the detail parts section above could be removed because of the Aftermarket forum, but it would be nice to know at-a-glance where each part is made or can be purchased. For example, if I needed an alternator I would find them at XX company. Or if I needed wheels I would find them at YY company, etc.

Hey James, I totally agree about not running a wire if you can't see it. It's good to keep it simple in that case. I guess I'm mainly looking for the wire locations of what you can see from the top, but I know have to end somewhere. And I figured a couple of those wires will cross down into the engine into areas I currently can't see. I'll try your search term to see what else I can come up with. Looking forward to feedback from others as well.

@James Ries: Yeah the kit seems pretty good from what I can tell. The engine has been a little tricky since the fit is a little off for my "standards." I agree with your statement. Research is what makes this so great. I'm learning a lot about this truck and autos in general. I have a question for everyone. I've been looking over a lot of engine compartment photos via Google image, and eBay Motors. While the top-down visual is great, for someone like me who knows very little about wiring and engines, it can be tough to know where wires go to. Does anyone know where I could find a 64 or 65 engine compartment diagram or illustration showing the bottom half as well? I basically need to know where along the compartment the battery cable connects. I know the ground (-) hooks to the engine or the frame somewhere, but not sure of exact location. From what I understand the positive (+) connects to the starter, which in this case looks like is mounted to the side of the oil pan. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also wondering how the alternator gets powered, and wonder if the starter wire continues along the compartment to eventually connect to the alternator? As you can see, I'm totally guessing. I'd also like to remove the over-scaled fan belt off the pulleys and connect the alternator appropriately. Luckily I've found some decent reference photos for that. The only place I've seen aftermarket alternators is Model Car Garage. Please let me know if you guys have another source. The stock carburetor will be replaced with a ProTech Holley. My uncle mentioned he had a Rochester carb, but I can't seem to find those in aftermarket. Again, let me know if you've seen the Rochester's. I know there are some other small wiring parts and possibly the fuel line, but it all depends on finding a good wiring illustration to reference. I had planned on using a MAD distributor, but I'm still trying to find out what size wires he uses for the spark plug wire. I'd like to stay as close to scale as possible. Here are some different size measurements I've come up with based on research here on the forum, and 1:1 motor part descriptions. Spark Plug Wire: 8mm (generally) | 1:25 = .0125" = 28awg wire. Heater Hose: 5/8" | 1:25 = .025" = 22awg wire. Heater Hose: 3/4" | 1:25 = .03" = 20awg wire. Radiator Hose: 1 3/4" | 1:25 = .07" 13awg wire. Battery Cable: 1/4" | 1:25 = .01" = 30awg wire. I know Detail Master carries quite a few of these, but they are not always the "correct" scale. I've also heard the discussion on the boards about using a slightly bigger wire because of "scale effect." An issue where the correct size actually looks too small. Personally, I'd like to see both sizes for myself in person before I choose a size of wire. I'd like to be prototypical if possible, but understand it could look odd at times. Again, just need to see it for myself. So there you have it. Lots of research. Any thoughts or feedback is very welcomed.

I know this is a really old post, but I'm wondering if the MAD distributor, with wire, are still the 30 gauge wire as you state? Or if anyone knows for that matter? I'm referring to this one on the site. If that's the case then it looks like we are looking at a 6mm 1:1 size, correct? From all the searches on this forum, most are recommending 8mm, but everyone seems to really like this detail part. Thanks!

Thanks, James. I am still looking around for wheels. At the moment I'm in the process of trying to find detail parts for the engine so that should keep me busy until then.

Thanks, Bob. I guess it's a matter of knowing where to look. That list was very helpful. I'm not sure that this post is relevant unless others want to use it for links pertaining to all areas of the hobby. If the moderators feel it's a duplication, please delete.

Dullcote from the can has always worked well for me. Best results have come from submerging the can in warm water for 10 mins before spraying. I also second the Vallejo clear coat. I like that they are in drop bottles for easy transfer to the airbrush. I use to recommend PollyScale before they announced that they would discontinue the line. However, if you can still find it, it's still a great option.

Just wanted to double check, but was that the correct link? It goes to a URL that looks like a spam site.

Hey guys, I'm still getting use to where everything is at on the forum, but one thing I can't seem to find is a central location for website links to buy aftermarket detail parts. This could either be from an online store or a manufacturer. Please let me know if someone has already started this. Feel free to add and I'll continue to update the list. If you provide a link, please provide feedback about your experience, if any, when purchasing from the site. For example, customer service, timely shipping, quality of goods, etc. This would be very helpful I think for those of us just getting into model cars. Especially, the detail parts section and online stores. I've also started with some other useful links as well. General Online Stores Hobby Link Japan www.hlj.com Model Roundup www.modelroundup.com Strada Sports www.stradasportsstore.com/Model-Cars.html Detail Parts Crazy Scale Auto Parts www.cybrarygoddess.com/crazyscaleautoparts Detail Master www.detailmaster.com Model Car Garage www.modelcargarage.com Morgan Automotive Detail (MAD Modeling) www.madmodeling.com Pegasus Hobbies www.pegasushobbies.net/catalog Pro Tech www.protechmodelparts.com Scale Dreams (Store currently offline) www.scaledreams.com Airbrush Badger www.badgerairbrush.com Iwata www.iwata-medea.com Paasche www.paascheairbrush.com Weathering & Paint AIM Products www.aimprodx.com AK Interactive www.ak-interactive-usa.com Bragdon Enterprises www.bragdonent.com RustAll www.rustall.com Tamiya www.tamiya.com Testors www.testors.com True Earth www.true-earth.com Vallejo www.acrylicosvallejo.com Kits Hasegawa www.hasegawausa.com Italeri www.italeri.com Revell Monogram www.revell.com Tamiya www.tamiyausa.com Scenery Scenic Express www.sceneryexpress.com Unreal Details www.unrealdetails.com Woodland Scenics www.woodlandscenics.com Decal Manufacturers Micro Scale www.microscale.com Modeling Tools Micro-Mark www.micromark.com

I might also add that when using weathering powders the results are best on a matte surface. With that said, it would seem that you couldn't use a satin or gloss finish anywhere when using powders. Like I mentioned before, you couldn't seal your powders with gloss so my only conclusion is doing everything with a dull surface. I know a lot of modelers are into the new look, but I tend to be more on rust and grunge side.

Thanks for the info, Marcos. I can see how this works well when you don't have to worry about weathering, but in the case of a motor, frame or engine compartment where there are multiple finishes, it seems like it could be difficult to maintain the right look while sealing your work. Maybe you could give an example of how you applied this same approach to that great looking engine in the photo. And by the way, killer looking seats, dude. Maybe the trick is not sealing the paint, but I've had problems with acrylics lifting off while applying washes and such.

Coming from a model railroad background for the past couple of years, I can safely say that rarely is there a time that I had to worry about anything but a matte finish. It makes it quite easy to weather freight cars knowing that we can rely on Dullcote without messing up other finishes because for the most part everything is matte. Now that I'm stepping into model cars, I'm coming across a lot more instance where a gloss or semi-gloss are noted on certain parts. I'm curious how you guys deal with these different finishes while applying multiple paint layers, weathering and sealing? For example, there are parts on an engine where you would find semi-gloss, but in my order of weathering parts you would Dullcote before and in between each step. And of course you wouldn't want to put a semi-gloss on after your weathering. So, it's a little confusing from my perspective. How do you guys go about retaining the correct finish, but also sealing in your weathering, etc.? Thanks!

Thanks for chiming in, Tom. That is an excellent idea using the wire. I will look around for a duel exhaust system. Just one more thing to add to the list. As always, thanks for your guidance. At some point I'll actually have something to show.