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Everything posted by chris4q
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no worries George - here's a good link to translate... http://translate.google.com/#auto|en| You see, I'm not the only mad man out there....
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Here you go mate.... http://www.fein-design-modell.de/html/fein-design-modell.html
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that's what it was built for brothers. I've put a lot of clear on this car so it will hold up. I think the key is not to come off the track Thanks for the kind comments lads...
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This is a beautiful slot car body kit from Germany in 1/24 scale. It was produced by Karl Heinz Hornberg. I had a great time painting this car. I pinned the etched wing parts with rivets. This will keep everything together if it comes off the track. I glued the front windshield in and used rivets (no glue) to hold the side windows in along with the headlight lens. This will help big time with not poping the windows. I highly recommend Karl Heinz Hornberg slot body kits.
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Cheers guys. yes, they are raced. It's a rare old Cox but it will run on the track. I don't think it will be run hard because it's pretty rare now. Here's a link to the build of this car... http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58302
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It's been a while. Here's a 1/24 Cox Chaparral 2D slot car build I just finished. The kit was pretty basic so added a lot of detail to it. I hope you like it.
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Thanks guys - I did find this place... http://www.decalpaper.com/category-s/2.htm you get 5 white and 5 clear for $11+ I'm going to give it a try and see what happens
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I've just made a decal waterslide sheet for a couple 1/32 917's and I think I need somebody who has got an Alps printer because there is white livery. It needs to be sharp and I'll need them soon. Can anybody help here? Moreover, I'll be doing more decal sheets real soon for other unique 1/32 and 1/24 cars. Needless to say, they will be pretty tight. I can send you a photoshop file with layers. Anyway, thanks for any interest in this area All the best
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sorry guys. You may have already seen this but I'm trying to fix broken threads. My image hosting company shut down. You may see other oldies coming soon.
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thanks lads... This car went off to a collection. I'm sure he wont run it. If he does it will be slow laps for sure.
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Here's another project I've just finished. It's a 1/24 Cox Ferrari 158 F1 slot car. I've converted it to a 1964 John Surtees car. I was not going for super detail but a mild but good representation of the car.
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wow, thanks guys for the kind remarks. It was a blast to do. Cheers!
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Okay, I'm finished with this one. 1/24 Cox BRM F1 slot car. I wanted to do a little more detail than normal but still keep the history in this slot car. I sand blasted the chassis and wheels. I'll have a go at the Cox Ferrari next with some extra detail added.
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It's been a long time since I put something up so here goes. Here's a project that I'm working on right now. It's a 1/24 Revell Cobra slot car with a twist. I wanted a little more detail so I'm using a Monogram 1/24 Cobra static kit for parts. I have all the original parts from the Revell Cobra Slot kit but they were so basic I decided to do this. All the holes were filled and re drilled to fit the new parts. I also modified the side of the body to take side pipes. Some of the other parts were modified to fit the Revell body. Why do all this on a Revell body? Why not modified the static kit body? I wanted to keep most of this slot car original. The car will need another primer then a good sanding and it's ready for a blue and white stripe paint job. Modifying this car was no easy task. It took a long time. It looks easy but it was a real pain to line up the holes to fit the new parts. Note... I do have spinners for the wheels but forgot to shoot them. Note...The company hosting my images went out of business. I have to redo "everything"... dear me. ;( Well I'm finally finished with the Cobra. Here are some pics of the car. You'll notice I've left the windows unglued. I've given the Cobra a 2nd window screen so if this was to be raced then all that needs to be done is to change out the window. A long project but it seem to come out well in the end.
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Thanks Chris and eveybody else for the cool comments - cheers BTW - These cars do get raced and they can stand up to some off's on the track but after a short while they need re polishing. I have 2 cans of clear coat on this car so it's got a lot of protection. They race cars in Germany like this all the time. They are so well done it's hard to see these things fly off the track and they race them hard. Maddness but what the hell, it's racing;-) Here's how I did the rivets... The first thing you have to do is plan way ahead. Check the body molded rivets and make sure you can get a rivet in all the areas. In some cases you'll have to leave some of the rivets out because it maybe too tight to get one in there or it's just not right to the eye. If you make a mistake here just fill the hole in. Sand the body down without taking the body molded rivets out. You need to keep just enough showing so you'll have a guide for drilling holes. I used a pin head to mark the holes and it also helped for a guide for the drill to get started. Drilling the holes is tough. Keeping everything straight is a nightmare and all this drilling takes a long time. And I mean a bloody long time! Once all that is done (drilling) then you sand the body again until smooth and then test fit ALL the holes with the rivets. There are well over 500 holes on this car and all needed to be tested. This takes a massive amount of time just to sort that out. Once you have done this, you set the rivets up on some very thin sheets of cork. You press each rivet into the cork but leaving just enough of the steme so you can get some very fine tweezers under the head. I just used normal tweezers and grind the ends down to they were very fine. All of the rivets need good spacing so when you paint the heads of the rivets they get a complete and clean coat. I use a metal primer first. Then you use the colour you need to match your body paint. I did 2 coats of colour. Once all this is done then varnish the rivets. Let these dry for a couple of days. Once your body is painted and varnished you'll polish the body until smooth with compond. After that, use a good car wax and polish. Now you'll ready for the rivets. The rivets come with long stemes so you'll have to cut EACH ONE down because they are so long it would look silly so cut them close to size you'll need. When I glued (5 min epoxy) the rivets in I used a little glue at the front of the hole and then some glue for the rear when the rivets was in the hole and correct. The fine tweezer you are using is a "most have" in placing the rivets into the holes. Make sure you do more rivets than needed because you will lose some of these rivets trying to get get them into the holes in some cases. I lost about 10 and trust me, you don't want to spend time looking for a very small rivet on the floor. Now all this takes a massive amount of time and I don't mind saying that this is a bitch to do. You have no choice but to take your time here. This is the way I did it and I hope this will help anybody who trys using rivets. Here's link to a cool website who sells rivets - http://www.scalehardware.com/ best Chris
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Here's another one just finished. The body is from a 1/24 static Academy kit. To my surprise the body was pretty thick and real strong. The kit is a real nice representation of the Ferrari 250 LM. Just little scratch building and chassis was hand made by Jairus with a Mura "A" can. I had a lot of fun painting this car. I hope you like it.
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Well I've allways loved this Ferrari 330 P4 and I wanted to do a street version of the car. If I had the money, this is what I would be driving. I used a Fujimi 1/24 Ferrari 330 P4 kit along with the extra detail kit with etched parts. I also did some scratch building for some of the parts. Over 500 miniature rivets were used to complete this car. I'm also using a Motor Modern multiple adjustable chassis with this car.
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I've been thinking of scratch building a highly detailed F1 slot car and this car gets the juices flowing I thought you guys may want to see this car. I bought this off ebay about 5 years ago. It's a 1/12 scale McLaren MP4/6 Honda by Tamiya and built by legendary master modeler Andy Matthews from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Lots of scratch built parts and milling going on here. Amazing detail and of course, it's the last car Senna won the world title in. It was a lot of fun shooting this car and I also did some photoshop work showing the motor through the cowling. Enjoy
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there are still more cars to come and I'll post them later. About 3 yaers of work and about 85% of the cars went off to a collection in England. Some of these creation were done by Jarius which went to the collection through me. Thought you would like to see them :-)
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Just thought I would put these together - Part of a collection of my slot cars. 1/24 and 1/32 scale This is just a small part of it. More to come.
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Thanks Draggon - I do put these on the track - Because of the amount of clear on put my slot cars I'm able to just buff out the scratches when I'm finished. Most of the time I'm carefull so this not a problem. Thanks again mate
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Great idea with the photography - The car looks real - amazing job on this car.
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Thanks Mike - This thing was small - Here's pic of the car on top of a 1/24 MPC Pontiac Bonneville slot car. It's a tiny slot car.