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straightliner1

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Posts posted by straightliner1

  1. Does anyone have some detail photos or info they can share with me on wiring the braking stsyem on 70's funny cars? I am building a Jungle Jim Monza and specifically I am looking for how you plumb it from the lever on the right hand side to the calipers.

    Thank you

    Try this:

    http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/snakepit.html

    FC and dragster brakes are pretty straightforward. The lever/handle is essentially the brake pedal.

    When pulled, the bottom pushes a rod forward that operates the master cylinder. A hard line runs

    to the front of the chassis where a "T" fitting feeds lines that run to each brake caliper.

  2. I can't believe nobody's mentioned Castrol Super Clean (although the Walmart Purple Power is the same stuff). Either will strip the chrome and the undercoat in less than an hour (the plating will be gone in a minute or less). Why strip the undercoating? You're gonna take it off when you remove the mold lines, anyway.

  3. Yes, there is a Cougar kit. There also is a ca. '65 custom Corvette. I'll post pics later, when I'm at home.

    And entirely btw. would you like to include the truck kits too?

    We could, I reckon. I have had most of those at one time or another. I have one of the KW cabovers that I cut into a day cab, and shortened the chassis up. To pair with it, I shortened a pair of the exterior post trailers to forty-footers and scratched a pup for them. Of course, this project remains "in the works"! Forgive the crappy pics. I shot them with an ancient webcam.

  4. Oh, yeah, I remember the Camaros, the AMX, the '69 Mustang, the '67 Camaro was a custom, as was the earlier 'Vette and the Torino. I have the Torino, 'Cuda, the '69 Chevelle built, along with the two pictured above. I also have the '69 Camaro and maybe the AMX in a box of parts sqirreled away here, somewhere.

  5. This was a great series of kits. Very nicely detailed and body proportions that look right, to me (I'll admit to not not noticing a lot of shortfalls, in this department). Given that, here is a pair of them I built many years ago. There were eight or ten of these kits that I am aware of. Shown are my interpretations of the '36 Ford and the '48 Ford. I'd love to see anybody else s builds of these kits. I'd also like to see a comprehensive list of all of them that have been available. These look like they could use a washing!

  6. Dan,

    Now that I see pics of the actual car your model is even more outstanding ! How did you get the steering wheel to look like tape was wrapped around it ? And the front end is dead on.

    Thanks for your kind words, Pete! Actually, I cut thin strips of electrical tape and wrapped the wheel with it. I scratched the wheel from Evergreen rod and a disc punched from sheet, then used Plastruct hex to cut the bolt heads from.

  7. Straightliner,

    Ok, I think the car is on the cover of the Oct. 1957 issue of HOT ROD Magazine. I figure there's an article in the mag as well on the same car. I've looked through my trash,..I mean STASH of old HOT ROD mags and no luck !

    I'll try e-bay next ! Thanks for all the help, By the way, it looks like the car has working steering, correct ?

    Pete L.

    Actually, my steering doesn't work. I built everything so it would, but, then glued it rigid, just to make sure the spindles didn't break. October 1957 is correct! I don't have the issue, just a photocopy of the cover and the article, but, yes that is the correct issue. It was a fun build. I love all those old Monogram dragsters. If you have questions, I'll be happy to help as much as I can.

  8. Straightliner

    Great model ! where can I find the article you speak of and the decals you mentioned ?

    thanks

    Thanks for your kind words regarding the model! It's a little tricky to build, only because you have to build it like an airplane model to add the frame tubes and some of the cockpit details. I think it's worth the effort, though!

    The article is from Hot Rod Magazine I think some time in 1957. If I had a scanner, I could scan it for you. Unfortunately, I don't. As for the decals, go to:

    http://www.topenddecals.com/TopEnd/Page_1x.html

    And click on the "email" button. Jack should be able to help you out! Sorry I can't help you with the article. If Andy Martin's looking in, maybe he has it.

  9. Charlie, since this stuff is similar to a superglue, I'd imagine it could be used on resin, but I've never tried it myself.

    Dan, I've made parts like the spoiler, and the entire panel between the fenders up front on my Concept Charger, but never tried casting parts with it, I've gotta give that a shot!

    It works well for small parts with lots of undercuts (an Enderle barrel valve, for instance) because you can use a brush to get the liquid into the dead ends, then add more liquid, then the powder, more liquid, then powder, etc. to fill any voids as you go along. Give it a try, it works great!

  10. Hey you guys are great...thanks for the quick response. Turns out I was able to find some great photos of the restored car and they were right on my book shelf! For future reference check out the book The Garlits Collection by Mike Mueller published in hardcover in 2004. There are all kinds of cars from the museum detailed in full colour including the Cook and Bedwell dragster. In fact there are eight pages with about a dozen beautiful shots of the cars detail. Again thanks for all the help.

    DO NOT--I repeat DO NOT use photos of the restored (I use the term loosely) car in Garlits' museum, if you want to build the Cook and Bedwell dragster. I have no idea where that color or those markings came from, but, neither looks anything like the car as it ran. Wait for Andy Martin's article. It's the one I used to build mine. I don't have a scanner, or I'd scan it for you. Here are a couple of photos of my C&B dragster. I'll be glad to help you with any pointers, if you ask. Jack Smith does the decals for this car. I used a Dupli-Color Ford Blue (don't recall the exact color) on this.

    post-1237-12688785242833_thumb.jpg

    post-1237-12688785352371_thumb.jpg

    post-1237-12688785592095_thumb.jpg

  11. Recently, on an email group I belong to, someone asked about soldering aluminum sheet. They mentioned a product called HTS 2000. They described that they'd seen it demo'd at a car show. Apparently the guy demoing it patched a hole in a pop can. A friend of mine sent me a few sticks of a similar product that someone had dropped off at his shop. I thought I'd give it a try on some .010" aluminum sheet. I used a Bernz-O-Matic butane torch for my experiment. I have never attempted to weld or braze any kind of sheet metal before. I have to say that, for a first attempt, I was very happy with the results. I overheated the sheet in one spot, but, the brazing product worked magnificently! I am currently working on a project in which this material will figure prominently. Will post photos, once it's done. HTS 2000's website is here:

    http://www.aluminumrepair.com/

    But, if you enter that name in the search on Ebay, you'll find someone selling it in "modeler reasonable" quantities. This stuff could change the face of scratchbuilding with aluminum!

  12. I finished this one a while back. It features scratch built coil overs, fuel pump, injector nozzles, parachute, home made decals and seat is made from brass. paint is HOK candy red over ultra gold base with no clear. It was a fun build.

    Have I seen this one somewhere, before?

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