straightliner1

WOW! Thanks for that link! Great stuff!

Hmmm...It just did for me. Try this, then: Go to http://www.straightlinemodeler.org and click the "Research" link. When you get to that page click on "Unraveling The Snake Pit". That'll get you there!

Try this: http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/snakepit.html FC and dragster brakes are pretty straightforward. The lever/handle is essentially the brake pedal. When pulled, the bottom pushes a rod forward that operates the master cylinder. A hard line runs to the front of the chassis where a "T" fitting feeds lines that run to each brake caliper.

I can't believe nobody's mentioned Castrol Super Clean (although the Walmart Purple Power is the same stuff). Either will strip the chrome and the undercoat in less than an hour (the plating will be gone in a minute or less). Why strip the undercoating? You're gonna take it off when you remove the mold lines, anyway.

Schumacher ran a pair of passes over 325 MPH at Vegas, last weekend. He also ran the fastest-ever quarter mile pass at 337.58 in Brainerd in 2005(?). I was thee, for that one. Gave me goosebumps!

Lots of stuff on this car here: http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/snakepit/snakepit2.htm And here: http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/snakepit.html

We could, I reckon. I have had most of those at one time or another. I have one of the KW cabovers that I cut into a day cab, and shortened the chassis up. To pair with it, I shortened a pair of the exterior post trailers to forty-footers and scratched a pup for them. Of course, this project remains "in the works"! Forgive the crappy pics. I shot them with an ancient webcam.

Your 'Cuda is virtually the same color as mine!

Oh, yeah, I remember the Camaros, the AMX, the '69 Mustang, the '67 Camaro was a custom, as was the earlier 'Vette and the Torino. I have the Torino, 'Cuda, the '69 Chevelle built, along with the two pictured above. I also have the '69 Camaro and maybe the AMX in a box of parts sqirreled away here, somewhere.

Kits I am aware of include both of these, a '69 Malibu. a '69 Fairlane(?), a custom '68 'Cuda, a Mustang and a '57 Chevy. Are there others? I'd kinda' like to see these re-released.

This was a great series of kits. Very nicely detailed and body proportions that look right, to me (I'll admit to not not noticing a lot of shortfalls, in this department). Given that, here is a pair of them I built many years ago. There were eight or ten of these kits that I am aware of. Shown are my interpretations of the '36 Ford and the '48 Ford. I'd love to see anybody else s builds of these kits. I'd also like to see a comprehensive list of all of them that have been available. These look like they could use a washing!

Thanks for your kind words, Pete! Actually, I cut thin strips of electrical tape and wrapped the wheel with it. I scratched the wheel from Evergreen rod and a disc punched from sheet, then used Plastruct hex to cut the bolt heads from.

Wow. After looking at Andy's scans, there's tons of stuff I couldn't/can't see in the photocopies I have. I could build one a lot more accurately, now. It is what it is, I reckon!

Thanks, Andy. This is a great article. I promise to put it to good use!

Andy, could you scan it at 1024 pixels wide and email it to me at dan@straightlinemodeler.org ? I'd like to put something together for the website on this car/model. I'd appreciate the hell out of it! Thanks!

Actually, my steering doesn't work. I built everything so it would, but, then glued it rigid, just to make sure the spindles didn't break. October 1957 is correct! I don't have the issue, just a photocopy of the cover and the article, but, yes that is the correct issue. It was a fun build. I love all those old Monogram dragsters. If you have questions, I'll be happy to help as much as I can.

Thanks for your kind words regarding the model! It's a little tricky to build, only because you have to build it like an airplane model to add the frame tubes and some of the cockpit details. I think it's worth the effort, though! The article is from Hot Rod Magazine I think some time in 1957. If I had a scanner, I could scan it for you. Unfortunately, I don't. As for the decals, go to: http://www.topenddecals.com/TopEnd/Page_1x.html And click on the "email" button. Jack should be able to help you out! Sorry I can't help you with the article. If Andy Martin's looking in, maybe he has it.

It works well for small parts with lots of undercuts (an Enderle barrel valve, for instance) because you can use a brush to get the liquid into the dead ends, then add more liquid, then the powder, more liquid, then powder, etc. to fill any voids as you go along. Give it a try, it works great!

I never thought about using this stuff for filler. Back in the mid-80s, we used this for casting small parts--hell, we used it for casting everything! It was called "dental resin" back then. Nice tutorial and a great idea!

DO NOT--I repeat DO NOT use photos of the restored (I use the term loosely) car in Garlits' museum, if you want to build the Cook and Bedwell dragster. I have no idea where that color or those markings came from, but, neither looks anything like the car as it ran. Wait for Andy Martin's article. It's the one I used to build mine. I don't have a scanner, or I'd scan it for you. Here are a couple of photos of my C&B dragster. I'll be glad to help you with any pointers, if you ask. Jack Smith does the decals for this car. I used a Dupli-Color Ford Blue (don't recall the exact color) on this.

Recently, on an email group I belong to, someone asked about soldering aluminum sheet. They mentioned a product called HTS 2000. They described that they'd seen it demo'd at a car show. Apparently the guy demoing it patched a hole in a pop can. A friend of mine sent me a few sticks of a similar product that someone had dropped off at his shop. I thought I'd give it a try on some .010" aluminum sheet. I used a Bernz-O-Matic butane torch for my experiment. I have never attempted to weld or braze any kind of sheet metal before. I have to say that, for a first attempt, I was very happy with the results. I overheated the sheet in one spot, but, the brazing product worked magnificently! I am currently working on a project in which this material will figure prominently. Will post photos, once it's done. HTS 2000's website is here: http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ But, if you enter that name in the search on Ebay, you'll find someone selling it in "modeler reasonable" quantities. This stuff could change the face of scratchbuilding with aluminum!

Have I seen this one somewhere, before?

With a chassis that long, you'll want more modern tires. Slicks from one of Monogram's Show Rods or 3 in 1 kits will be perfect. Those old piecrusts were long gone by the time wheelbases were that long.

Charlie, I'd really like to know your tire technique. Those are some of the best looking slicks I've ever seen! Very nice!

Thanks for the heads-up, George. What a beauty! Kinda' makes a guy want to go back to work on a truck.