patrol52
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Posts posted by patrol52
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Looks cool! Love the color and the stance is great, but that's a '66, not '67.
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Here is a kind visual aid I did for another site asking the same question.
Notice that the wheel base is maintained even though the new pieces (gray boxes) are not vertical. Basically the center section is just dropped straight down and everything is trimmed up so it looks more nice than the square ends hanging down. Depending on how radical your drop and the space available usually dictates the angle of the gray boxes (usually more vertical in radical drops and cramped space.)
Here is the basic effect:
Note that often the Z is only done on the rear of the frame and a drop axle used in front. If you are making an open wheel thing like those pictured, you may also think about putting the front axle in front of the grill and making a "suicide" style mount on the front.
You should be able to find plastic bar stock at most hobby shops that works really well for "building" frames. If you have spare frames around, you can hack pieces out of them too. I usually just use the plastic stock and some super-glue.
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Most of my cars do not roll, but only due to the fact that most of the factory parts do not work out well for the purpose. My 40 ford however uses a clever mechanism from the 97 corvette model. They have the disc brake rotor as the part that glues to the suspension capturing the inside of the wheel and allowing it to rotate freely. I also have some large diameter wheels from the revell 59 corvette that will roll by a similar piece on my 60 Impala.
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64 Impala by Revell for sure. I'm not sure about their other Impalas in the lowrider and amigo-pack series.
My box looks like this.
Also the 66 Riviera has an un-attached frame, I believe, but the rear part is probably wrong for an el-camino.
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Yeah, this Riv was a bit of a hot rod. It apparently looked pretty stock, but had the 430 under the hood. I've always wanted one, but will probably never get one, so I was going to build the model with the 430 (455) from a GSX. Then I will have a hail-head for a hot rod of some sort (that supercharger setup should look cool on an open engine bay!)
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I've got a 65 Riviera that may get more go with the 430. From what I've heard, Georgia State Police 5.0 Mustangs top out at 150 mph. The 65 Riviera with a 430 didn't have that annoying speed limiter!
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The firing order is 18436572 just like most every other GM V-8.
Does anybody know where to find the 430 valve covers?
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Looks good, but you gotta call it the Taurus, or it will never sell anymore!
I actually think the Lincoln version of that car looks pretty nice--and almost like what you made there.
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1985 Pontiac Fiero 4-cyl 3-speed automatic -- I was driving it till my mom took it.
She gave me this one. 1988 Pontiac Fiero 4-cyl 5-speed manual.
My first car. I mean truck. Whatever; 1979 Elcamino GS. It's got a Buick 350 / TH400 in it--just a little more power than the stock V-6
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Keep the Caddy mill, I wan't a 50 ford p/u with a Caddy 500 in real life, Love em ratty can't wait to se what you do with it!
Casey
One of my dad's friends built this. It's a '40 2 ton, but it's got a 500ci Caddy engine.
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Since that is Enamel paint, you can use just about any type primer (if it were lacquer paint you would want to use lacquer primer.) I would suggest rattle can primer as that should be easy enough to find and will get the job done. It is possible to lay it down pretty smooth, but I usually wet sand with 1000 grit before paint.
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I use welding wire to make my hinges. I have also heard paper clips work, but the main thing is a fairly stiff wire, that wont bend just by the door opening and such. I use welding wire because, for it's size, it's really tuff, especially when cut into such small hinge size pieces.
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Looks amazing!
That is my favorite year Chevelle.
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Want to race?
I might build something along those lines with the other cab. I just need an engine.
Looks good! Keep up the good work.
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Dave,
Cord sold thier body design to Graham. A 1938-1940 ish Graham Hollywood shares the Cord body (Not that finding a Graham model is any more easy.) But if you did, all you would need is the front of the Cord and it's fenders and wheels.
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So I try to build a model of every car that my dad and I have. So far I have been able to build all of them.
My current project is the 1937 Cord Convertible by Lindberg. I built their Auburn 851 Speedster, which was tolerable, but the Cord is a mess.
My first problem is that My dad's car is a convertible coupe (2 seat), not a pheaton (4 seat) as the model is. Currently I have the body cut into many pieces, which will get put back together in correct form for a convertible coupe.
My next problem is the hubcaps and wheels. The wheels that come with the car may be representative of the correct tire size, but the hubcaps aren't even close. I would like to use the whitewall tires from my Revell 40 Ford coupe, but still need an idea or source for more correct looking hubcaps. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have never tried casting resin, but would be willing to try it--granted I will need a lot of help on that.
Here is a picture of what the hubcaps should look like on the Cord.
Here is what came with the kit
Again, I think the hubcap portion should be larger (it now has a flat about 3/16" around the hubcap which should be the wheel.)
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Look around on the internet at specialty wood shops. They have sheets of thin veneer wood that can be used for the paneling. The place I found had these packs that were exotic wood, northern american wood, ect. I bought a pack for like $20, which contained about 20 sheets of assorted woods in 12" x 8" sheets with a thickness of about 1/16" or less.
As for the body, I would do a chop with more out of the front than the back. I would probably build a flathead with several carbs or blower and possibly Ardun (flathead-hemi) heads. It is just my opinion, but I would also try to get the tires close to inside the fender on the rear. I would also probably get some whitewall tires.
It is the makings of a cool project. Most importantly, don't give up on it.
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Looks Great. I love old trucks like this one.
If my full scale 50 Chevy turns out like this I will be really happy. I like the way it sits, and the color looks pretty good as well. Mine is going to be orange, I think and if I don't change my mind.
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I don't know about you guys, but I consider cars from the late 70's to 80's "new" cars. That body style mustang is one I never really liked, but those body mods make it look entirely different and much more like the muscle car is should have been. It's very impressive that it has held up for so long. I still have models my dad made when he was younger, but most of them are in pieces and need restoration.
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If you are going ahead with the highboy idea, I would suggest putting the front axle way out front (still behind the grill, but forward). The tires coming past the grill should look cool, and leave plenty of room to fill in the sides of the hood, or leave a drastically exposed engine, which would also look cool.
I've been contemplating this for awhile, and I think I would do something with the impala rear part:
1) possibly straighten the lower part to match the body
2) build a body line to continue that on the bottom of the cab, and then taper it off towards the rear of the impala fender
3) continue the impala bullet on the truck cab
Those are just my suggestions, if you don't like them, that's fine. It should be really interesting no matter what you do.
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Is that the model masters kit? I built on of those for a friend, and was really impressed with the detail on that. The only difference was where I cut the top off, and ran my dremel tool down the side to lower the trunk, as a convertible has a slightly flatter rear deck. Apparently the convertible is pretty rare, as I have never seen a model of it, or a real one, other than the picture I had for reference.
I like the yellow, looks good.
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I use a similar method, when I have an application for coil springs. I found that those cheap ball point BIC or other click pens have the perfect size spring for a model car. In addition, they actually compress slightly under the weight of larger cars (such as my 40 ford coupe.) My local hardware store can't comprehend springs that small or soft, unfortunately, so I use the pens. Their plastic tubes also work well for drive shaft tunnels and c-notch flanges.
Here is a rear shot of my model A Ford pickup, which also uses these.
On the front of this one, I made the front spring out of aluminum leafs cut from a pop can. That was a pain, but looks cool (although hard to see in any pictures I have, so I won't post any for now.)
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One of the 4-H model rules was the model has to be attached to the display case base, and I absolutely hate tying down the model, so a small disc of this at each wheel will hold it down and keep it immobile (especially if it actually rolls, though mine rarely do.)
I will have to try using it to hold those parts that are un-holdable while painting. Sounds like a good idea.
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The thickness of your paint is dependent on what you are doing with it. A thick paint will usually leave an "orange peel" or rough-ness to the surface; however, if the paint is too thin, it will cover poorly and usually run, causing a big mess.
Orange peel=
run=
I have some testors acrylic from walmart most likely, that is pre-thinned, and ready to spray (came in a set like these). Usually, a brush-on paint, like the individual bottles they sell, are thicker than something you want to spray.
I usually use spray paint cans for model cars, but on real cars, the general rule that gets you in the ballpark is: if you dip a stir stick or other stirring device, the paint should run off fairly quickly, in a stream, then drip. If it runs slowly or drips, then it should probably be thinned a little, if it only drips it may be too thin, and require more paint (or just painting light coats to avoid runs)
Even more important than the paint, is the technique you use while painting. Get a method set to mix the paint consistently, then practice painting! As you paint, adjust the spray gun to spray how it feels comfortable (it should put paint down at a comfortable rate--you don't want to have to go super slow, or super fast, just to keep up with the gun. Make it work for you). Try laying down "heavy" coats, and "light" coats of paint, just so you know what happens, and can compensate for each scenario.
Some tips:
1) lacquer paint over enamel is a no-no, unless you like wrinkle paint
2) follow directions for the paint if given (that re-coat within 3hrs, or wait 7 days is important!)
3) generally each coat of paint should be given some time to dry (depends on paint, but usually no more than an hour), before another coat is applied (this helps paint dry more consistently, and avoid runs)
4) clear coat is your friend (do a color coat, just for color, then cover with clear for a shine [or a dull coat if desired])
5) practice on anything that replicates the surface you plan on painting. Soda cans are a good substitute for your model car, so sand, prime, and paint them until you get it right. this can also be a good way to test your color, as you can see how it really looks.
6) if the paint does go bad (and it happens to almost everyone), let it dry, sand it down, and try again.
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Brown Paper Bag
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted
On the full size thing, the idea is to NOT touch the metallics (base coat) until some sort of clear is sprayed. Often they will spray an intermediate coat of clear on the paint and do any graphics on that, then finish (shiny) clear over everything.
I don't know how the paper bag would do, seeing as most metallic paint used on models is intended to be a finish coat and therefore much more durable when getting smoothed out. It sounds plausible, but I haven't tried it, although I will approach with caution (as in practice on something first.)