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dosimeter

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Posts posted by dosimeter

  1. Update:

    A lot of work on rear end. Specially the pillars. They do look quite symmetric now but still require some fine work. I think I filled and sanded more than 5 times.And still filled, will sand them later. The rear window is taking good shape!

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    The current status. Cut the hood earlier today. But it's very raw as of now. The doors have been sanded and filled about 3 times already, some more of it to do. I tried to get that contour on the upper edge in the picture, it looks pretty satisfying in to naked eye.

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    A bit clearer in this one

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    And yes, the opening boot!

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    I also checked my inventory today, found four designs that were complete sets. The second one from left (black 5 spoke) is a bit bigger for this but I think giving it a little stance will look cool. Whichever I choose, I'll have to repaint.

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    With flash to highlight the spokes :)

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    Painted one to check the results with my chrome paint. This is single coat. I applied another one after the picture. Lets see how that works out.

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    And now the windows. I got a mobile phone glass protector for and tried to cut it with a mini saw blade that I made myself (attached to my 12V drill). Tried hard to cut it but it always cracks. Then I tried sanding it and it worked. Since it is very thin glass, sanding it is very easy and quick. I'll have to get at least one more protector to complete the rear and side windows. Still looking for things to go with front windshield.

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  2. Ahmed, I'm not sure Tamiya makes an Etching primer myself, I don't use their paints often enough because I have Dupli-Color readily available. I'm sure someone here can say yes or no on that. Here's the link to Tamiya's site, and a link to their online catalog page.

    http://www.tamiya.com/    http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/archive.htm  

    I dug around on their Japanese website and found this, it doesn't list as an Etching Primer, but it is designed for Metal. It's listed as unavailable here in the US, but you can apparently still get it from Japan.

     

    http://tamiyashop.jp/shop/g/g87061/

    Thanks mike. I am still trying to contact them. Will try again tomorrow. Anyways I got this very cheap chrome paint from a local paint shop, I think the paint is local made too. Tried it, doesn't give a good shine. It looks more like refined silver than chrome. If I couldn't get a better one I would go with it...

  3. Update:

    Made both doors, sanded too but no pictures of that right now.

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    Separated the front section, made it reattachable with 2 mechano pieces! I was nervous of messing it up but it went fine. Had to take fenders off and reattach. 

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    Done the boot. It opens too. Still some gap left that I will cover later.

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    The two B pillars aren't symmetric when seen from rear, I am filing and sanding them, hope that does the job.

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    Just beware when working with lots of superglue. I got glued so bad I thought my skin was gonna come off!

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  4. I would use an etch primer first for metal as this will bite into the surface before you prime and paint anything

    Follow Dave's advice with the Primer, the etching Primer will work perfect for the metal body. If this were my build, especially since it's metal, I'd go with Lacquers all the way. Faster drying, better shine when polished out, and you can simply buy regular Automotive paints, you'll need the bigger cans for a 1/18th body!

    I will try to get my hands on one. The only problem I have is that I don't have an air compressor setup for painting so I need spray cans to paint. It is almost impossible to find fine quality paint spray cans. I found the contact of a Tamiya distributor here and I am waiting for the reply. Does Tamiya make the etch primer too? If yes then can you please give me the link to there website for the code/number of the product.

  5. The Tamiya RC paints would work fine on a metal body, they're way too "hot" for polystyrene though. I'm not sure if the dry flat, since they are sprayed on the inside of a clear body, they don't need to be glossy.

    Yeah I just remembered that RC paints go on the inside of the transparent body. If I can get both enamel or lacquer, which should I use? I've heard enamel takes longer time to dry but is more durable than lacquer??

  6. looking good , love the progress , doors look good maybe try to make the raised line around the indentations with small round rods ..

    oh and about the window question always put windows in after paint .. will work best ....

    Hey thanks Richard. Have done some more work. Made both doors, working on the raised lines. Also I have installed the boot. My diecast model's boot did not open but I made this one to open too. Will share pictures later!

  7. Ahmed, I recently used Testors Model Master Custom Lacquer System paint for a car I finished but I don't know if you can get this paint where you live.

    I would use either an enamel or lacquer for the body.  I use Tamiya Fine Surface primer and really like it.  It's for plastic and metal.  It should be good for your project.  Tamaya also makes lacquer spray paints.  Tamiya paints are easier to come by. 

    Polycarbonate paint is for R/C car bodies.  I'm not sure if it would be good for the metal body.

    Mike.

     

    Thanks Michael. I have found contact of a Tamiya distributor in Pakistan. Will be contacting them shortly!

  8. Could someone please answer these?

    1) What sandpaper should I be using for final sanding? Currently I am using 120 and 220 grit. This works well with metal but when it comes to filler, I think I should be using a finer grit because it leaves it rough.

    2) Wet sanding or dry sanding? I haven't tried wet. Is it preferred? If so then why and when?

    3) Can I use Plaster of Paris as filler?

  9. Sanded A pillars today. They do look symmetrical but there is still some fine sanding to be done. Also the rear is taking shape very well. Sanded that too. Still needs some filling but I ran out of depoxi.20160619_043900.thumb.jpg.ecfd1b28216ba020160619_043913.thumb.jpg.08cb72ee20df4120160619_043926.thumb.jpg.06e0b51594ab9620160619_043934.thumb.jpg.da78cfb626ee23

    The part where the roof ends is a little more curved downwards when I compared to the original pictures and other models. I am thinking of leaving it as is though I can change it by filling. Also, can I use plaster of paris for filling?

  10. i have to say you have a great eye for creating shapes ..the shapes look spot on  ! , roof might need work but the shapes are there ! very cool ,

     

    idea > to make the moldings around the windows you could use round wire and after they are on .. sand them in shape ..

    i made the window moldings on my 1/25 revell charger from brass , bend them and glued them on with superglue .. then filed the shape in them

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    and as for wheels you can look for some 1/18 wheels online there are nice rims/tyres out there .. or get hold of a old 1/18 model and use the wheels?

    your windows ..rear window is easy its pretty flat you could use clear material from anywhere , food containers .. bet would be to get hold of some thicker lexan ... but  that front window is harder .. it curved ...i could be poible to make a mold from styrene or wood and then put on some clear material and by heating it (oven?) make it ink over the mold ...

    Thanks Richard. I actually cut paper parts when it came to matching the complicated shapes like fenders. Others are very simple for this car as it turns out. 

    The window idea is great. I think a copper or brass wire will be quite easy to sand than steel. Will try that for sure. Did you tape the windows while painting or put them afterwards? Heating and molding came to my mind earlier but that is way too out of the things I can do :) 

  11. Added B pillars insides, and A pillars. More filling and sanding too. Getting A pillars aligned was tricky, and I messed it up a little bit. But then I covered them both in depoxy and sanded until they looked the same, pictures of that later. These ones are before the correction.20160617_205534.thumb.jpg.d8de63f9ac7dd620160617_205547.thumb.jpg.add3edc92ef5d720160618_000754.thumb.jpg.c5e522c3bfc6e020160617_205525.thumb.jpg.3d13114ba58f50

  12. Your ideas sound good!  Plastruct and Evergreen Scale Model both make nice styrene shapes that might also work for the frame but the steel rods will be stronger.

    What color will you be painting this?  

    Thanks. I may end up painting black (like fast and furious) or red or maybe pearl white. What color should I use? Normal spray cans that I get off the stores aren't good for this. Plus I have spent so much time on it, spending a little extra on paint would hurt. Any brands that make paints for scale models?

  13. Very impressive work so far!

    Will you be scratch building the interior?

    How do you plan on making the chassis?

    Thanks. Yes, I want to scratch build the interior and chassis. For the Chassis, I could use the same steel rod I used for framing the body and then covering it with same sheetmetal. Though I haven't tried it yet so may or may not work.

    Any Ideas on that?

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