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v8horsepowercj

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Posts posted by v8horsepowercj

  1. Thank you...I found the Firebird funnycar decals and that is the way I may have to go to make the Monza. I have seen the pics of the old Slixx Monza sheet and maybe I can find one out there somewhere

    I'm kinda late responding to this but Last year a good buddy o mine who was big into modeling (actually the guy that got me back into it) passed away. Anyway i bought most of his collection and a 3 ring binder full of slixx decals. I recently moved into a new house but I will try to dig the book out this week and look to see if I have the sheet your looking for. You wouldn't happen to have the slixx number for the sheet you need would you?

  2. Jim your wheels look amazing, awesome machine work your doing and I will deff. be placing some orders with you soon. I have a 1/16th scale Fuel Altered that I will be needing a current set of wheels for. I do have a question for you though what type of Lathe and Mill do you use in producing these?

    Chris

  3. I am building a Monza funnycar and would like to know if they used magnetos or distributors back then. I have looked at some sites but can't get a clear picture and I am trying to be period correct.

    The older styles look like distributors but they are deff. magnetos (which is why they usually look so much bulkier under the cap area than a normal distributor does.

    (edit) Sorry guys I guess I should have read the other responses before answering the question.

  4. Hi Chris

    The chassis is just one of the revel 1/16th scale funny cars I think it was a charger but I am not sure..

    The body came from a guy from the 1/16th scale drag board I am a member of, he does a lot of bodies including the Monza, a 76 mustang and most recently an Arrow

    Flash point resin does some bodies as well

    I had to extend the wheel base of the chassis just a touch and lower the rear a lot to get it look right, the wheels/tires come from a guy in Canada he also does Etch metal for 1/16th funny cars and dragsters plus other resin stuff

    Hope this helps

    Mal

    Hey Mal, nice work so far can't wait to see how it looks after the bodywork is finished. Great job on gettingthe body to sit right those kits are notorious for having the tailend hiked a scale 3 ft higher than they should be. Would you mind posting the contact info for the gentleman that's doing the 1/16th Etch metal/ Resin pieces your speaking of? I'd like to see some of his pieces and place an order for a few 1/16th scale FC's I'm planning to build.

    Thanks

    Chris White

  5. Thanks guys......

    Motor is done for the most part. All detailmaster hardware on this one with Pro Tech PE bolts. The headers required major clean up so much I think I needed a little more on those inner seams..... :<img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Blast belts are extra seat belt material from model factory hiro kit. Again, I went for the older vintage look. This car had.

    <img src="http://images17.fotki.com/v308/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010019-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    <img src="http://images44.fotki.com/v1468/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010020-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    <img src="http://images27.fotki.com/v994/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010021-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    <img src="http://images45.fotki.com/v1450/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010022-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    Here is a chassis test fit. Its looking busy. And I am pleased by that. Building a top fuel car with no detail is like asking me to cut my arms off! ;D

    <img src="http://images42.fotki.com/v1466/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010023-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    <img src="http://images42.fotki.com/v1466/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010024-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    <img src="http://images42.fotki.com/v1466/photos/1/335511/7280700/P1010025-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    Beautiful work on this build David!!!! I've always liked how this kit depicted the front wheel offset (another Big Daddy) what a pioneer he was to the sport. I'm sure he will be thrilled with your build

    Chris

  6. I have been wanting to build up several of the S&M cars for many years now. I had a Jo Han S&M Cuda that was missing the body and the AMT 71 Duster for the project. Starting with the Jo Han Hemi the first thing was to plug the hole in the block for the original kits axle. I ended up hacking up the oilpan to get it to clear the steering and add capacity. Turning it around would of been much easier if it had not been assembled 30 some years ago with tube glue.

    I also sawed off the molded on bell housing and used a "lakewood style" from a "Rampage Camaro" kit , added some strip styrene to cover the open frame rails.

    http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/Summit_1/P2080007.jpg

    http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/Summit_1/P2080008.jpg

    The Trunk floor was cut out to eliminate the spare tire well and molded in fueltank. Also the rear frame rails have been moved in to accommodate the narrower Jo Han Cuda Axle Housing

    http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/Summit_1/P2080009.jpg

    Lots of test fitting has been needed

    http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/Summit_1/P2080012.jpg

    http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/Summit_1/P2090016.jpg

    Thanks for looking in till next time.

    Coming along nicely Sean. Great work on the suspension the stance looks great. Can't wait to see more of this build.

    Chris

  7. My best friend from High School now runs a Body Shop and he used to carry "the treatment" wax for 1:1 autos. I realized that this was the same wax I had purchased previously (at a hobby shop) in a much smaller bottle for 4 times the price ! I purchased a large container of this stuff for 1:1's almost 8years ago and I still have plenty left. I personally favor Novus #2 and #1 polish over the carnuba waxes in most (but not all) cases now.

    Chris

  8. Looks like the guy tuning really knew what he was doing :lol: I have a traxxas Jato with the 3.3 in it I run it on 30% and with a slightly rich ( safe ) tuneup it makes so much power you can't keep the front end on the ground. I can't for the life of me figure out why somone would spend that kind of cash on an RC and disregard the break in and tuning instructions????? But hey he did provide the customer with a really nice wrist pin inspection port (HOLE) LOL

    Chris

  9. David thanks for the reply I will deff. have to order a set or two of those tires from the modelhaus now. Ironically I just walked into the house from watching the real 1:1 pullers just like these tonight and man you scale version is looking dead on bud. Outstanding work and I like the contrasting paint colors you chose. keep up the awesome work

    Chris

  10. I have an additional way to simulate that trim that I thought I'd pass along to you. I was looking for something to use on musclecars to simulate all the chrome trim on muscle cars that (just as in your case) for whatever reason failed to get molded into the kit interiors. What I found worked best for me is some stuff called line-o-tape. It comes in an actual chrome finish I use the .010 size mostly for replicating the pieces similar to the seat chrome like your doing. The great thing about it is the adhesive is strong enough so it stays put, it conforms to curves easily and you don't have to worry about any glue "fogging" on your painted seats. If you can't find the tape at your LHS let me know through an e-mail and I'll try to get you the companys address.

    hope this helps.

    Chris

  11. David,

    I,ve seen a few guys build these and I always thought it would be cool to try one since every summer the NTPA makes a stop about 15 minutes from my home. My holdup has always been the tires where do you find those at? Great Job so far.

    Chris

  12. Man that's an awesome start on what's sure to be one wicked ride!!!! The twin turbo setup is gonna make that thing into a beast for sure!!! It doesn't look like you will need any but if you'd like some ref. pics of some turbo setups I have some that I took of the ORSCA Outlaw 10.5 and Limited street cars last time we had the Pro Mod at the track here. If you think you can use them for your project e-mail me at V8horsepowercj@bellsouth.net Keep up the awesome work.

    Chris

  13. James ,

    This is a really awesome looking build so far man. I really like the outlaw 10.5 look that's happening with this build. I know alot of the guys were not real happy about you dropping that chevy engine into a Ford and I can kinda understand that (If I was a ford guy I'd probably feel the same way) however this year I've seen alot of Mustangs with chevy power in them running in the Outlaw, Limited Street, EZ Street and other heads up classes. I've been kinda shocked at the frequency that this has been happening lately and most of the cars I've seen like this were some of the top running cars in their classes. With that said I still like the Fords powered by Fords and the Chevys powered by a Chevy and I'm glad you have a Ford Mill to drop in it now. Keep up the awesome work man I can't wait to see how this one turns out. You've given me an idea as I have both these kits LOL.

    Chris

  14. Great work Charlie. The fuel system lines and fittings as well as the puke tank (and plumbing to it) look outstanding. The Pro Tech parts deff. bring out the detail on that engine. I especially like the dual filter setup. Can't wait to see more of this one.

    Chris

  15. I saw this post and thought I'd pass along this info in the hopes that it might help someone out. Theres a company called "line o tape" that makes pinstripe tapes. I use their chrome tape all the time as trim for the chrome pieces on interior, dash trim etc etc. For some applications I've found that their adhesive isn't strong enough. On interiors that can be cured by adding a little glue. On exterior a simple clearcoat over them would void the adhesive problem as well. It can be bought in most common colors as well as Chrome and Gold and it also comes in several widths ( the tape I normally use is .010 in width). I don't have a phone number for them but their address is listed below. Hope this helps someone.

    Chris

    Line O Tape

    Pinstripe Tapes

    7911 S. Suburban Road

    Centerville, Ohio 45458

  16. Well I really need to drop some hobbies!! Other than Car models as of late I've found myself purchasing some current armor (stryker, Humvees, Tanks etc). Other than modeling I like RC I have a traxxas Jato, I just sold my Losi Aftershock. I'm into music I have a Korg recording board some line 6 effects boards a few amps and several guitars but most of the recording stuff is behind too many model kits for me to even use it now LOL. I also enjoy competitive action pistol shooting (IDPA type events) and some mid-long range rifle shooting. In the winter I hunt as well. I have a 1:1 drag car but I need to freshen the engine up in it therefore I haven't run it in about a year. I also enjoy drawing (drag cars of course) And I try to attend at least one or two national drag racing events a year, but in the past few years I've become just as interested in the Outlaw street car events at the smaller tracks. I guess you could say when I'm off work I've got to be doing something all the time LOL.

    Chris

  17. Guys,

    I remember some time ago seeing a WIP and a pic of the engine showed an electric water pump like the old style (pre CSI)

    I think either edelbrock or Moroso made them in the early 80's. I know I've seen this piece in a kit before but I can't for the life of me remember which kit it was in. This particular style of pump had the elctric motor enclosed and it was pretty much a flat chrome piece across the front. Can any of you guys help me out and let me know what kit a pump like this would be in. Or if anyone has one I'd be willing to trade anything I might have that you need or $$$$$. If theres an aftermarket one being produced in resin that would work as well. I'm trying to build a copy of a friends engine and I need a water pump like that.

    Thanks Guys

    Chris

  18. Sorry I looked thru all my old Super Stock pictures and couldn't come up with anything other than a pic of Running Bear the 421 tempest built by Arlen Vanke then authorized by Pontiac (from 1963) The only 62 catalina I could find was the A/Stock of Skip Stegenda. And of course Jim Wangers Catalina pic (with the whitewalls LOL) Sorry I couldn't be of more help to you.

    Chris

  19. Reminds me of a guy I built a pretty hot pump gas engine for. He insisted on putting a Dominator carb on it because "it looks so awesome sitting on there" :P Anyway the thing ran just like I thought it would it was way overcarbed loaded up all the time black smoke everywhere! The really messed up thing was you could drive it to the track with the 750 CFM 4150 series carb on it and run 7.30's (1/8th mile no nitrous) all night and then cruise back home with it. This was several years ago when running 7.30's in a street driven car was very fast. He kept asking me why can't you tune it to run right with the dominator finally I got disgusted and told him look I could probably make it run fine with the dominator but your carb fuse has been blown all along thats why we can't get it to run right. Of course I then gave him directions to the local speed shop where he should go and ask for a Carb Fuse specifically for a Holley Dominator after the few days of fun we had at his expense he decided to stick with the 750 LOL.

  20. Actually the way that Wayne built those in the pic he supplied is pretty much how it's done on the 1:1 P/M's the only thing different from his technique and most of the 1:1's I've worked on is that they use small tubes welded directly to the roll cage that the small pieces attached to the door slide into. Also on some of the 1:1's they add a tie wrap to the bottom of the pieces that attach to the dorr after they are run through the tubes as an extra measure to keep them from leaving the car at mid track or during some especially rough tire shake. Great work Wayne!!

    Chris

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