Pierre Rivard
-
Posts
2,013 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Pierre Rivard
-
-
Fantastic stuff Matt. I love the idea of epoxy for the goggle glass, very realistic. These wheels will be perfect for this replica. You are taking this humble kit to the next, next level. No need to re-mortgage the house for a MFH kit...😄
- 1
-
You did say after the multi-year dragster masterpiece that this one would be a more standard build... right?
You are forgiven my son. We should not expect Rembrant to get into finger painting. 🤪
-
Despite the multiple hurdles the car looks beautiful John, but no thanks to Heller. When a highly skilled builder such as yourself calls a kit a pile of ... then it must be really really bad. We've been warned!
-
You're definitely giving this one the full treatment. Check out Ted's Marketplace for braided lines, they carry multiple suppliers and sizing options. I like the Pro Tech braided lines.
-
Superb work Rich. I like the way the suspension arms have accidently chipped off. In today's F! world a scratched part would be discarded but not 35 years ago. Perhaps with tires showing a bit of track use and modest mechanical components weathering (washes).
-
Another masterpiece from your bench Dave. Do you have special methods or materials to take out the surface irregularities from the printing process?
- 1
-
I love Bertone designs and the Stratos is the ultimate expression of this style. Such a beautiful car in comparison to today's HUGE mid engine supercars. Fantastic choice you are making to go with yellow on this one. Will this be a racing or road car... or something of a mix?
- 1
-
-
On 9/27/2024 at 7:20 PM, Dave B said:
And I thought I had patented that sanding drum!!!!
Looking really good Pierre, it's going to be the model you first envisaged.
Love it.
Dave B
Absolutely Dave. Lots to do on this one and the Otaki body provides a better starting point than the other one.
-
Gorgeous work Paul. The air deflectors are so realistic they look full size. So nice to see this project back in action.
- 1
-
The rear axle/diff/oil pump assembly is a model by itself. No 3D printing shortcut. In this shop we fabricate our parts! 😃
-
-
Love it Helmut. Stance is spot on. Such a beautiful race car.
-
-
WHAT? OOB... and miss all the fun?
Yes Andrew it is better now. Now please finish that exhaust header connection.
-
18 hours ago, Ulf said:
Hello Pierre
This thread and your post interests me a lot, are you able to share any tips?
For various reasons I have not been able to use my airbrush since the summer but the need to build is stronger than ever, in addition, the range of colors is not what it has been so I have bought a lot of Vallejo colors, read, watched Youtube, tested and tested again and a brief summary of the status today is that I'm starting to get a picture, a feeling for how to do and what materials are needed, the visits to the hobby shop were a bit like switching from 110 to 230 volts. Everything is new in the painting dep.
wetpalette, great so that you have some wet paint left to improve with hours later. Paint shaker, indispensable because the colors become absolutely wonderful by 20 seconds of shaking. Stainless steel balls to put in the paint cans. Vallejo primer, these are polyurethane based and much more durable than the colors, a thin layer is enough, these primers are available in colors which is good as the colors are a little transparent which in turn gives the opportunity to pre shade. Vallejo paint and clear coat. Vallejo clear coat polyurethane, these are just like the primer more durable. Vallejo airbrush thinner.
now, some parts are in soaking in the bath as the clearcoat could not be thinned with water, which was not visible until it dried, test test and test again ...
So to what was most difficult to understand without Youtube,
you do not brush out the color like Humbrol but rather apply quite fluidly with the brush so the color levels out and it dries quickly.
The brush is not as important as you might think, not like painting whit enamels.There are more videos whit handpainting(not brush) gunpla’s(WHAT is that ??) than 1/25 cars on Youtube.
Next up for my training is a one colour tank model kit.
Yes, acrylics are fragile but it’s better after a few weeks drying and as always, if you want to remove the paint, it sit rockhard.
Hello Ulf,
You are experimenting a lot and that is basically how I developed my method. I don't promote brush painting as the way to go but for me it was the only way because I live in a high rise flat and setting up a spray booth was just not possible. My best tip would be lots of thinning and multiple thin coats are the way to go to avoid brush marks on large surfaces. Vallejo primer, thinned about 20-25% with water. 3 to four coats, a few days to dry and then moderate wet sanding with 2000-3000 grit. Vallejo model color, thinned with at least equal part acrylic thinner (my favorite is Green Stuff World 2102 acrylic thinner). Again 3-4 coats, no sanding. Vallejo gloss varnish 70.510, 5 drops clear and 3 drops water for thinning. Usually 2 thin coats. I let it cure a few days before polishing. After decals I add a layer of Holloway House Quick Shine to seal them and it also evens out the gloss level.
- 1
-
The printed parts add so much details. It is a new world.
- 1
-
Lots of beautiful fabrication going on, and the F1 Specialties detailing kit may be scary to look at but it sure takes this build to the next level.
This may be the last truly beautiful F1 racer and you are building a spectacular replica of it.
-
Looks very good. How did you make the reinforced flexible fuel hose?
-
Another great build Matt. Such a wonderful race car. If you want the more accurate out-laced Borranis for the front end, USCP has them labeled as MB 300slr wire wheels and Jason Hupin (Jack Modeling) also makes them.
- 1
-
12 hours ago, 1959scudetto said:
Phewwww- lots of work you are doing here, Pierre (who thought otherwise?) - but the stance of the body onits wheels looks perfect. You are always looking for big challenges, aren't you?
If your intention was to build something in-between waiting for the missing parts for teh DB5, then you have certainly found a much bigger challenge with this one. Simply great !
Definitely not an in-between build. I've been scheming this one for a long time. A big challenge for sure!
9 hours ago, JollySipper said:CSL........... Coupe Sport, Lightweight..........
This is coming along great, especially that stance!
Thanks TJ. She looks all business but there is so much more to do.
9 hours ago, absmiami said:Yup …
A yup from the master is "goodenuf" for me. 😊
3 hours ago, jaymcminn said:Once you get the stance right the rest is gravy. That sits perfectly!
Gravy for you Jason, but not for me. I'm sh... scared of the decals but some more manageable stuff to do before I hit that bridge
- 2
-
-
15 hours ago, magicmustang said:
Outstanding build on a challenging kit. I read your WIP and because of your finished car, I drug mine out for the umpteenth time and tried to finish it. I am finally almost there (thanks to your advise in your WIP). Even got the stance lowered and the hood to sit flush over the carbs. The decals, however, were toast. Am trying to secure a Revell set off Ebay. Wish me luck.
Once again, great build on a difficult kit.
Thank you Gerald. It is a challenging kit but the gorgeous body casting makes it worth the effort. I have another kit of this great car and I expect the build to go much smoother with all the learnings from the first one. Decals on mine came from VRM and they were excellent. I don't know if they are still producing but the site is still up (v-r-m.com)
- 1
-
It really looks the part Mark.
This is a fabulous journey into the search for realism and scratch building all these components to reflect the car as it was built.
1955 Mercedes W196, Juan Manuel Fangio, Merit, 1/24, Roy Cross Tribute
in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
Posted
The entertainment never stops. You produce so much interesting material to follow. Who needs a Netflix account? 🤪