Vito321

I've had this kit in my stash for a couple of years now & took it out recently to look it over, again. Online research about the kit has revealed that it doesn't fit together well. Seems that it has to be built either totally open or closed, the body panels don't fit well enough to be assembled such that they can be opened and closed. I'm still somewhat of a novice having gotten back into the hobby only a few years ago and am seeking comments and suggestions on this kit. Is it worth pursuing or is it to be avoided due to poor fit and design? Thanks in advance.

I'm using Model Master Clearcoat Enamel as the top coat on a '55 Chevy Nomad gasser. The top is Tamiya Racing White lacquer and the body is Testors dark green metallic enamel. I'd selected the enamel clearcoat as I thought it would be effective on both the lacquer and enamel color coats. The first coat of clear seems to be doing the job very well. However, I would like to add at least one more coat (maybe more) of clear but need to know how long to wait before I wet sand with 3000 and 5000 pads to remove a few dust gremlins that appeared in the enamel. I know that Model Master suggests at least 48 hours before recoating. Being a relative novice, having returned to the hobby only a few years ago, your assistance and suggestions in this matter are appreciated.

I'm considering building an auto hauler trailer (Revell auto transport trailer kit) but would like to know whether that trailer is compatible with the fifth wheel of the Monogram snap tite Peterbilt 359. I've been told that trailers and tractors from different manufacturers are not compatible such as the Revell trailer would not connect with the fifth wheel of an AMT truck. Your comments on this are appreciated, thanks.

I am working on a 1/43 resin kit from France of the 1988 Jaguar XJR9 and am having some difficulty getting primer and paint to adhere to the body. I've cleaned the body several time using everything from Dawn dish detergent to mineral spirits to lacquer thinner and each time the primer does the fish eyes routine. My most recent attempt at priming is with Dupont flexible acrylic primer; the stuff you'd use when doing a plastic bumper on a real car in a body shop. So far it seems to be fine. Any other suggestions? At this point I'm thinking of Dupli-Color Oxford White over the primer but I'll do the spoon test first. Thanks in advance for you assistance.

I have a Harbor Freight air compressor that I use mostly for filling tires. It's 1/3 hp, 110 psi, 3 gallon tank. I have a HF pressure regulator as well. Would this system be adequate for use with an air brush? Thanks for the suggestions.

A question I have regarding putting the bare metal foil on before the clear coat is whether there is a risk of damaging the foil when polishing the clear coat. Would you run the risk of ripping up the foil in the process of polishing and buffing? Also, what about using a Molotow chrome pen for window trim and panel details? If the Molotow was done before the clear coat, I think it would be protected and not damaged during polishing. Thanks for your comments.