
martsky
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Marty Nygard
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Les, I guess I tried to say that I have already made resin centers for Revolution wheels and they are already mounted. I am sure the 3-D versions are better but too late to change. The reality is that I mostly used 3 piece modular Revolutions on the HP car. Quite heavy even after I substituted titanium bolts for the steel. I also had one piece aluminum versions that had been sectioned down to our then current maximum 5" width. Nobody accepted the welding or heat treatment but everybody used them for the Runoffs because, you know, lighter! Real racing was fun, especially when I moved up to DSR, but little plastic cars are certainly less costly. M
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Ah, the UCSP revolutions are exactly what I could have used six years ago.
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I am still trying to finish making a Gunze Bugeye into a replica of my old H Production Bugeye Sprite. I have found that the Carrera Nascar 1/32 slot car tires rescale almost exactly in 1/25 to the 20.0 X 8.0 - 13" slicks I used to use. The Revolution wheels were harder. I contacted Revolution in UK to obtain a good straight-on photo of their product but they declined -- trying to protect intellectual property maybe? This led to my first and hopefully last try at resin casting. Good luck.
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I am by nature a Luddite but 3-D printed parts fascinate me. I have only used two suppliers but they both provided very accurately detailed results. The recommended two are: Ron Olsen's store on Shapeways (now defunct?) for many parts and bits. jpgmodels.com in Ljubljana. Many itty-bitty parts and some female mating sockets required enlarging but very authentic result on their Ferrari 250 Columbo engine. Delivery and shipping were prompt and well packaged (may be changed due to new tariffs?). Fun fact, Ljubljana once had the tallest sky scraper building in Europe. M
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Thanks Tex The model was of the Ferrari Columbo and was looking great until the incredibly cute individual velocity stacks for the very cute Weber carbs disappeared into the carpet monster. Now considering a turbo conversion. All of this for a glue bomb Aurora GTO Resto Mod. Marty
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1/24 Momo Porsche 935 Moby Dick
martsky replied to Pierre Rivard's topic in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
I saw this car at a Brainerd IMSA race. Moretti made his famous spaghetti for the paddock Friday night but we had to bring our own wine. Almost bought a Penthouse T-shirt but the Penthouse Pet that was wearing it might have caught a cold giving me hers. The car was almost perfect for the mile long Brainerd main straight -
Thanks Les, This process provides astonishing detail. Probably the nicest thing I have ever purchased from Ljubljana!
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I just received a 3D engine kit where the parts came on a spider web of little stringers which were then grown into a flat plastic plate. Two questions: 1) Is the flat plate the first or last part of the printing process? 2) Is the spider web individually modeled by the printing artist or is it generated by a modelling program? Thanks, Marty
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AMT XR-6 engine question
martsky replied to mrindy77's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Hello Cal, I have a good condition XR-6 engine missing the intake and exhaust. PM me you address and I will mail it to you. Marty Nygard -
Ferrari GTO Rear Suspension
martsky replied to martsky's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The Fujimi part definitely attaches to pins on top of the rear leaf springs. Greg's photo is probably correct so the Fujimi ends just need to be shortened up a bit. Thanks. -
I am just muddling along with the Fujimi GTO kit. Lots of nice fiddly bits and well shaped body. The rear suspension has me confused, however. The differential housing is strangely devoid of detail and appears a bit large. It also has what looks like a Watts link intended to attach the bell crank to the rear of the housing and also mount the link rods to the two leaf springs. I can find no reference photos of this device and also cannot see how it could possibly function. The Watts links I have personally (in a past life) fabricated have either had the bell crank attached to the differential housing with the outer links attached to the chassis or the bell crank attached to the chassis and the outer links attached to the axle tubes. Either way you can change the suspension roll center by moving the bell crank mount up or down. Does anyone have experience with the configuration included with the kit? As an aside, I hated solid rear axles so much that all my later cars were rear engined with independent A-arm suspensions.
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Thank you for all of your support
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I have never seen the Speed Racer cartoon but I found this snap kit for a low price and said why not. The first thing I noticed is that the kit was missing the 5,000 HP V12 engine. Probably a good thing since the kit tires were a bit narrow for that HP. Then there was the body itself; way to narrow for the wheelbase. What the car needed was fat slicks. So, the Revell Williams F1 kit came to the rescue with wings, wheels, slicks and suspension. This then required a wider body based on multiple cuts, spacers and putty. Finally I added half of a Cosworth Ford Indy car engine.
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Just a comment on the rear spoiler. Because the Chaparral had an automatic transmission, it did not require a clutch pedal. Instead there was a third pedal that the driver could push to flatten the spoiler on the straights. When braking for a corner, releasing the third pedal would cause the the spoiler to flip up and produce instant downforce.