mackinac359

Chad, I built that awful Italeri '53 foot USA trailer' - what a terrible trailer. Way out of scale height wise. Unrealistic to say the least. I built the Italeri Schmit dump trailer for MRC's display at iHobby a year ago - a nice trailer but very Euro in style. Tim

This is what I do: Assemble the cab shell, hood and sleeper box as individual units. Prime and paint. Be sure to paint under the hood, fenders, inside the cab and sleeper including the exposed lower edges. When you paint the cab/hood/sleeper, be sure to apply equal amount of paint to each unit so that the paint is consistent on all parts. Assemble the chassis including axles, springs, shocks, fuel tank mounts as a unit then prime and paint. Just like the 1:1 trucks are built. I leave the 5th wheel and 5th wheel plate off painting it separately so I can get paint to the inside of the chassis and axles. Tim

I assemble the cab leaving the floor out (unless I am going to paint the roof a different color,then I install the floor leaving the roof off). I then install the glass, and interior from the bottom (or through the top if I leave the roof off). Tim

Here are some with-trailer shots to show how the LoneStar fits with 1/25th scale trailers. I shot random trailers. The LS 5th wheel is a bit lower than the AMT 5th wheels so my multi-axle Michigan-type trailers seem to 'hover' over the LS's 5th wheel. The trailers were built to accept the higher AMT 5th wheel which always seemed too high and also to sit with the 1/24th tractors. The AMT and Ertl trailers fit width wise, but since these are mostly older trailers, the king pin is pretty far forward and there isn't a lot of room for the axles on a forward pin/forward 5th wheel set up modern config. An easy fix on a flatbed or the tanker, not so easy on the livestock or lowboy. I haven't tried the Beall tanker (because I haven't built one yet..) Tim (dump trailer added - a built-up I bought from ?)

How long will it be after the kit hits the shelves before someone offers a resin conversion to make a Harley version? I'm not thinking very long.. and it won't be long after the kit hits the shelves before someone builds it as a Harley version. Tim

Daniel, The DMM looks great! Wingra Stone Quarry out of Madison, Wisconsin used to have boatloads of these - red cabs, white mixer bodies - I can't remember what color the frames were. 6x6, no twin-steer. As a kid I was fascinated by them. Tim

Good idea.. I'll take some over the weekend. Tim

Before anyone gets wound up over wheelbase.. I'd rather have a kit have excessive frame than not enough. A long frame can always be shortened. A short frame is a bit more difficult. With that said.. the real truck that they measured (the blue one in another post) seems to have a long wheelbase, but the kit appears to be longer. The solution? Fill the space with some tool boxes. Doesn't Western have some long wheelbase west-coast versions? In my comparison photos - the yellow Revell 359 is a Revell of Germany kit with a Revell snap sleeper, Italeri wheels, tires and tanks and an AMT bumper. The wheelbase was shortened too. In reality, the real 359 looks crude compared to a modern truck. (Blasphemy! I know). Tim

Kostas, Here is a comparison between a few models. The difference between a 1/24th scale model is measurably different - but when parked next to each other it is hardly noticeable. The Italeri and Revell or Germany kits tend to sit high as if they were molded with the springs in the unladen height. If the Italeri Peterbilt had a Low Air Leaf suspension and low profile tires it would sit similarly to the LoneStar model. I'm thinking that you might be able to 'scale up' the LoneStar with 1/24th wheels and Italeri or aftermarket tires. Tim

Chris, I usually apply at least 2 coats of clear, let it cure then polish (or wet sand if I really mucked up). I use 3M rubbing compound for heavy polishing, then 3M cleaner wax followed by Mothers Carnuba pure wax. I recently started to use a product called "Beyond Clay" from Surf City Garage instead of the 3M cleaner wax. It tends to be more aggressive without scratching the paint. A technique I've been told works really well is to wet sand the 2nd clear coat, then apply another coat of clear on top of that and polish if needed. I haven't tried this yet.. but will. A modeler who does this on many small-scale model cars has fantastic results. Tim

Looks good. Tim

Dave, Thank you for sending me the kit for review. I doubt anyone will be disappointed. Tim

Kostas, The LoneStar is 1/25th scale, the majority of my Peterbilts are 1/24th Italeri kits. The LoneStar is longer than the Italeri 377/378. The tires and wheels in the LoneStar are smaller. Parking a Revell of Germany Peterbilt 359 next to the LoneStar and you can see they are in scale together. Tim

The steer axle "works" like the Italeri and Revell of Germany kits. The color is "Cherry Red Metallic" from Duplicolor. Tim

The last update to the main page was the 6th. I haven't added anything on my in progress page concerning the LoneStar. As for Box Art? I doubt it.. mine doesn't have the decals or the nameplate script on the doors. Tim

Charles, Yep.. St.Elsewhere. Very fitting. I'm from St.Ignace and me building a Navistar is something Else! Tim

Jim, The kit was molded in tan/gray plastic. I painted the interior gray with the "brick" accents. I don't know what color it will be molded in. I'm in the "banana belt" for snow. While everyone around me gets blanketed with feet of snow, my town gets it's usual 2-4 inches. (I am not complaining). Tim

Here is the test shot that I just finished. A report on it will be in the December issue of Model Cars. (November will be part 1). LoneStar on YouTube The LoneStar test shot build Tim

Um... "I think time dies on YouTube.." ???

Natural light sure makes things look better! Tim

Good work! Now build the trailers! Tim

A good printer will help too. My 3 year old Epson C88+ no longer prints clear decals or photographs. Tim

Here's what I do for colored plastic: 1). Light coat of primer. 2). Coat of BIN Primer/Sealer from Zinzer. 3). Coat of Duplicolor Sealer Primer. 4). Color. 5). Clear. Follow the instructions for each product for cure times before applying the next layer. The cab on this Pete below is from a red-plastic 377. Tim

The first unit is a 379-119 with Ultracab. This is close to the Italeri Long Hauler. Just modify the hood to be the 379-119 hood, a resin roof from P&P and some resin 2 holes, scratchbuild the moose guard and you're on your way. The second unit is a 378 but has a 48" low roof. The 378 also has under-cab routed exhaust piping and the fuel tanks are mounted quite a ways forward. Plenty of possibilities to replicate these two. Tim

Nice! Nothing better than a COE with stripes. Tim