hawkeye649

Looks like something a car-minded kid would draw.... I love it!

I like the plow... er front suspension. This model was the first 'super detailed' and 'not show truck' one I ever built. Old farm truck with tools made from sprue and everything. Like the build!

Yea I love steelies too, but for a whole 'nuther reason. And it's not Yokohama (thinking tires I guess ) It's Yakima. Here is the factory URL for their baskets; http://www.yakima.com/racks/cargo/gear-baskets.aspx This is probably the model that Civic is using; http://www.yakima.com/racks/cargo/product/8007070/loadwarrior.aspx Mah baby 1:1. MMMMMMmmm...

My father used to make a lot of things out of leather, and if I recall correctly snake skin is just thin on it's on. But it wont be as supple, I don't think. I think some of the people here who would like to put it in new cars would be do go to look into the "leather shirts" they make. If I'm not mistake they are a split skin (suede on both sides) and then are perforated to help with breathing. They hang like a thin cloth. Might even work for Bill Geary's convertible.

While I hate to knock a build, I think the roof rack is too big. That looks about the size of the rack I have on my 1:1 K5. It also looks too far off the roof. I know that's a 2 door, but I think if you measure it will be much larger than anything Yokahama offers in roof racks? Why not a luggage rack on the trunk lid? Don't see many of those!

Of the numerous methods available, what is the safest method to remove testors spray enamel primer, but not damage super glue?

Agree! Thanks for taking the time! Glad I asked.

Dang gum kids put mah Ferrari engine inta a truck!

Hopefully you caught the correction. Dual tank = one on each side. Single tank is apparently on the drivers side. In any event, there are no body panel lines around the gas tank that gead to the cab and the top of the bed, like on the fleet side GMC bed.

bump

They are really nice, very clean. I love the super-detail in the other one too. I think I might need to make a brace of these for the V12 that's going in my chopped truck...

When I looked at the pic of the Silverado at first, I thought it was a 1:1 that you took inspiration from. To me, made all the more believable by the forked up redneck lift! The Ford to me was even more believable, with the house in the back ground. A+! SCARY STEERING!!

I like!

No I'm still thinking about that. I'm thinking of a clean DD custom type of truck. Deep blue (maybe 2 tone?). I'm already thinking I need to just make a frame from scratch. I think I should be able to get the frame scrapin' on the ground. The engine specs are kinda modest though - # Max Power: 520 PS (382 kW; 513 hp) @ 8000 rpm # Max Torque: 347 lb·ft (470 N·m) @ 6500 rpm Still the best option I have for it. Maybe a twin turbo setup?

Don't forget that it was on the other side for a single tank setup! Chevy trucks with dual tanks had a cap on each side (one of the dumbest things I can think of in the world of engineering, and I am a chevy man through-and-through). Actually, it is on the drivers side. But here is a GREAT idea that we modeler's can use! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=3139616 Those are fender tops!

Hmm, it's been years, but I remember it drying. I certainly don't remember it clogging the sand paper or being sticky?? That's horrible though. I ruined a model that had doors that clicked shut with watch pin striker bolts, trying to dry primer that wont dry? Why would anyone make a paint that doesn't dry???

I don't know if it was you, but I saw this reply almost verbatim when I was cruising around last night. I thought maybe, just maybe, this primer might be able to be removed w/o damaging the putty - although it isn't super critical. Positive, absolutely positive. The primer on it hasn't dried in 4 days now, with HOURS of artificial curing time. Farkin wrecked the model in the process, going to turn it into a rust bucket now. In any event! I just need a paint strip method that is plastic & super glue safe. Does DOT 3 fit this bill? I have some around that would be suspect for it's intended use now but would be perfect for this. I'll need to try some on some CD case though, unless someone knows this to be another type of safe plastic. However I might as well set the model on fire if my super glue would be damage - there are SOOOOO many 'bits' that make up this tub/fender/etc.

Of the numerous methods available, what is the safest method to remove testors spray enamel primer, but not damage super glue? Any ones available that wont eat squadron bondo?

THE PRIMER TACKED UP AGAIN! AAAAHHHHH!

Looks like it's moving, at least to me!

Even that will be tough - much of the damage looks like warped plastic, not bent metal.... The vent window frames are ridiculously mangled, the doors are just saggy (only way I can describe it) and the floor boards shrunk to a type of "hour glass" shape when viewed from above. I'm already looking at it with junker prospects, but this has been a WIP for 4 years. The primer was Testors spray enamel 1237 flat gray primer. The can was room temperature, and sprayed in my cellar (chilly but not freezing 55 I'd guess?). Once it had dried to the touch, I brought it up stairs and put it in the sun to dry. Later that night, it still wasn't dry. Then I started the toaster process (which I have used for years) and it was helping - and had gotten it to the point I was willing to prime it again (with something else). So I did some body work, washed it, and put it in the oven again to dry (the doors had gotten water in them since they are hollow). The primer gray from the before pictures is the same primer, same can, and I had no problems with it. Shaken well too. I was just using it as "high fill" for the final body work. All this body work was done with personal (email) help from Bill Geary - watch pin strikers and everything. Since I was drying water, I'd put it through two 1/2 hour sessions. It was about time for bed so I put it on for 1 hour (max on the timer) and turned down the heat. It's exacerbated by the different materials used in the build. Two different models, evergreen, and the gray plastic from a CD jewel case (way back when I was poor/highschool). >quote name='Chuck Most' date='22 February 2010 - 01:50 PM' >Spyder the Interrogator! :D > >You could make it part of a body shop diorama. > I had been thinking of making a diorama where the body was on a lift being lowered onto the frame, like it was in final assembly (hence the cleanliness of the build). Guess now I just need to roll back - guess I read how to make welded patch panels for a reason now. >quote name='Railfreak78' date='22 February 2010 - 02:02 PM' >Maybe turn it into a beat up rock crawler? Sorry to hear of your misfortune however thanks for posting so others don't make >the same mistake. It was supposed to be a crawler/mudder etc. More a concept truck of what I'd like to turn my 1:1 into. I had plans to bling it up a little more than I would w/ my truck (those skid plates for example) >quote name='robertw' date='22 February 2010 - 02:11 PM' >One might say that that model is toast !!! Excuse the pun. Looks like the frame is good. Built it as a super detailed chassis >and display it as that. > >rob w This thing must have been 'toasted' 10x or more in the 3 days before this happened. I think this was a time issue. 1:1 1:24

The death of my 1990 Jimmy build up. The primer on this truck had been refusing to cure, and I had been using the defrost on my toaster oven to help cure it. For three days I'd been throwing the model in here, and had done it 3 times the day this happened. After washing it to lay down some more primer on the recent body work, I put it in for an hour and this is what I came back too. Before After Before After The body is in OK shape (the floor of the cab was many pieces, so it's warped). I think I might be able to keep one of the doors, but it will need a dent. I might be able to crinkle the hood, and rot out the body now, and remove some of the floor boards to make it look like it's in the middle of a rust restoration. So much for my 1:1 of my truck, it's already past the body work stage. And I was pretty much done with the frame :-( Bleh.

Is there a tut on here for these seats? They look sweet.

Now that's even crazier, how did you make the hose clamps?

That is just SICK. The exhaust even has discoloration. That's amazing detail!