Scale-Master

I made the plug for the alternator and the hot lead with a small eyelet and nut. The loom was made by wrapping .0085 wire around .039 diameter wire. The leads for the tach and battery for the distributor are also poking out. I added the signal wire to the solenoid (with another tiny eyelet and brass nut).

The cut-off switch was also milled from resin as was the switch knob. Custom decals were made for it too. I also finished the starter cable that runs from the switch to the solenoid; the smaller wire feeds the fuse block.

I made decals for the fuse box and lightly distressed the top one as often the printed ink gets scuffed. I did a little dirt and dust wash around the crevices and the mounting hardware has been installed too.

The fuse block box was milled from resin and styrene was used to make the latches and mounting bracket. A little paint…

I figured I'd make the terminal for the starter solenoid too… Just a little more brass.

The battery hold-down clamp/strap. Brass and aluminum.

I added the positive and negative symbols to the top and the two little caps. I drew custom decals and printed them for the labels.

The lugs for the carrying strap on the sides of the battery were made from milled brass and thin sheet styrene.

Thank you Mike S.! The battery cable ends are made of brass. The terminal bolts and washers are machined aluminum.

Thank you for returning it to the proper place Mike. However, since you brought it up, I do not see how any of what I wrote could be considered "snarky" unless someone is going out of their way to be offended and then it's on them. Since you of all people know I will respond when others say disparaging things about me here, (hence the reason all my posts are being moderated as you also well know), I have to wonder why you would write that if you're truly trying to keep the peace. With that in mind, could you please explain, so we all know going forward, just how does politely asking for the right thing to be done this week (because of an error you admitted you made) become the "exact reason you moderate my posts" for the last six months? Your comments blaming me for how I worded my request caused more "discomfort" than an honest mistake being rectified. I believe the funniest irony lies in your truly snarky comment hypocritically and incorrectly inferring that I was being "snarky". Why didn't I send a message you ask? (Maybe a better question is why didn't you read the first post of the thread before you moved it?) The reason is the last couple times I sent private messages, one was simply not answered and the other was a response that made it clear my point of view meant nothing to the moderator(s) and included an inaccurate retelling of the incident. At least by asking nicely, and more importantly publicly, the desired result was achieved. Furthermore, I have nothing to hide so I don't see why posting publicly should be an issue. To be fair, and taking your own "advice", you could have just returned the thread to its rightful place as requested without adding your snide comment aimed at me and all would have been just fine. I'm just here to share my work and try to help others build better models. I thought that was the reason/goal for the forum. I used the battery to size the battery box I built in the tub. The terminal rings are brass. A little more detail has been fleshed out on the battery box. A magnet will secure the battery.

Again I ask... (Since you moderate every post I make I have to assume you at least read what I post. If not, what's the point?) To the the moderator(s) who decided to move this STREET CAR as it has been clearly stated multiple times, to a Racing Section, would you please return it to the proper section it has been it for the last two and a half years (according to the forum guidelines). In fact the very first post states "It will be built as a street car T-70 replica with some modern upgrades." I milled a battery from a block of raw stock resin I high-pressure cast for low porosity.

To the the moderator(s) who decided to move this STREET CAR as it has been clearly stated multiple times, to a Racing Section, would you please return it to the proper section it has been it for the last two and a half years (according to the forum guidelines). In fact the very first post states "It will be built as a street car T-70 replica with some modern upgrades." The rear tray section is done for the time being. The insulation pads are cigarette foil/paper wrapped around thick paper.

The kit's fuel cell access panels were chrome plated with molded in bolts. One of them had a huge boss coming out the top to mount the fire extinguisher to. So I made these and machined 36 bolts.

Thanks Guys! Originally I made the engine cover hinges out of brass and styrene, but it turns out they weren't strong enough. I made a new pair out of brass reinforced resin but I was concerned they would not be strong enough either. So I machined a third set from aluminum and pressed the brass tubes into them. They ride on stainless steel and brass tubes, hopefully that will be strong enough… This created a weak link issue and I had to replace the plastic hinge eyelets in the engine cover with metal parts, so I machined new aluminum ones. Brass tubes are used for the secondary hinge points.

Just be gentle with them. They don't want to release from the paper as quickly as some decals. Give a good 90 seconds to two minutes for them to slide easily.

Straight out of the box build.

Once the clear had cured I was surprised how much die back it had on the white panel decals. Since they had to be sanded/polished out the whole car needed to be as well. Made for a much nicer overall finish. I used Hasegawa Flat Black Finish for the windshield frame. It works a lot like BMF but is a vinyl material. A hair dryer is helpful getting it to conform. The glass, headlights grille door panels etc. were installed too.

The dull sheen of the decals absorbed the clear more than I expected so a little more clear was put down than originally planned. Sure does wake up the color. Plus being in direct sunlight…

With that issue brought to light, and a little extra caution, the rest of the decals went on pretty well. They are matte finish so clear coat (already planned) needs to be used. I knocked down the blue paint with 1500 before decaling it.

The side window trim was done with Warbird Decals Chrome Stripes. The windshield banner decal was the first one I applied to the exterior of the car, looks like they are on the brittle side. A small piece chipped out during application. I filled it with a drop of acrylic black and sanded it smooth.

I milled the 7/16 bolts and washers for the headers. And wrapped them with heat insulation…

I machined the fuel filters. The primary is like what I run on my real cars and all aluminum. (It even has the three spot welds on one end.) The secondary is one of those glass types (that I don't use on my cars…), but I thought it would look cool on this one. I machined the glass tube from some slightly tinted acrylic rod to give the look of it being filled with fuel. The ends and filter element are aluminum and it has gaskets between the glass and metal.

The chassis/underside is no more detailed than the interior, but a little detail painting and mild weathering serves it well.

I also machined the fittings and mounting hardware for the fuel pump. The pump is a mix of cast and grown parts; the motor is machined brass. The bolt on the clamp for the pump is threaded. I made the decals for it too.

It was easier to install Harald around the steering wheel, then slide the seat under him. The interior is not overly detailed, but then it was a motorized model/toy. The gauges on the console received the same treatment as the dash.