Scale-Master

Thanks. The rotors match the photos of the real car this is replicating.

Brake Pads, more designing in SolidWorks… Ready to send off to Fraxional for growing.

The engine... As simple and easy as it builds up, it does its job well when viewed through the rear window.

More details and the other (outer) side. The rotors will be machined; I just wanted a blank to make sure it would all fit later. Now to make the pads...

The steering wheel is just Tamiya Flat black. The silver paint is just Tamiya lacquers. After a few days I added a few more coats of clear. It's even shinier now... Brakes. I used the Tamiya Panel Line Accent for the vent holes. I used the brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent on the chassis.

I started drawing up the calipers. This is an inboard half. Still more details to be added.

I sent you an email Pete.

And new fittings for the rear pivot points, same construction as the front ones. Upper control arms dry fitted.

New fittings and bushings for the front pivot points. Machined aluminum & brass with steel reinforcements. Both arms with upgraded front bushings and adjusters.

Thanks Ben. The interior colors were done as called out in the instructions. I went with a suede look for the steering wheel grip. I

Front upper control arms as they come in the kit.

I'm fully aware of the fitment of this kit. I built one of the very first ones into the country last year for the Scale Auto review. (Hence my comment about one more of the same kit...) The headlights are exceptionally well engineered.

Thank you Trevor! I added two more "ears" to the front bulkhead for the front shock and upper control arm mounting points (per photos of real T-70s).

Just all silver.

Yep, one more of the same kit. (I don't just build multiples of Sevens…) I decanted some TS-76 Mica Silver and airbrushed most of the body parts separately (like before). After it dried for a couple hours, (it's warm here), I sealed it with some decanted TS-13 Clear.

Reworked and assembled rear hub carriers. Brass tubing was added for the hinge points and open holes.

Rear lower control arms. Left is kit part as it comes. On the right is the reworked one ready for brass and aluminum hardware upgrades.

Front spindles. Step one, remove the brake calipers.

Thanks Sonny. I'll try not to disappoint... Rear hub carriers. Step one, remove the brake calipers.

Once I mocked up the heads with the headers on the engine in its final orientation due to the motor mounts I could see the headers should have a little more clearance around the rear shock upper mounting points. They fit, but I wouldn't want the heat from them on a real car. I used a metal wedge and a hair dryer to bend the pipes. I had to replace the header flanges too, luckily Fraxional provided me with a second set before I decided to make this change. I also had to lengthen the inboard pipes on both headers with some Plastruct tubing.

Now that I have the bellhousing to positively locate the engine, I can start to make the front motor mounts. Good old sheet styrene fabrication… Front: Rear: Dry fitted:

Done for the same friend as the orange one.

Nope, it is the correct unit for this application. As I have mentioned before, this is a street car. There are quite a few things that differ on it from a '60s era race car.

Thanks Trevor. Since I'm not using the magneto (I'll make a distributor) I have to add an alternator. I designed a proper Delco-Remy alternator in SolidWorks and it will be printed by Fraxional. To make it look more realistic I made it in four main pieces. I'll machine the pulley later as well as the other hardware and electrical connectors.

I had Fraxional grow me a second bellhousing after I reengineered the center section where the transmission mounts to it. (Very easy to deal with this 3D printing service.) More magnets are used to hold these sub-assemblies together.