bob paeth

Excellent coverage, my friend, excellent coverage. bob

The story behind the box art of the original '55 Chevy by Revell: The '55 Chevy hardtop was in the model shop when I started with Revell. The model shop was in the process of making all of the prototype parts that would make up the final kit. Art Russell was the model maker. The responsibility fell upon me to make sure that all of the features of the kit were correctly done according to the engineering plans. In the meantime the art department was starting work on what the box art would look like and at the same time I was asked to suggest what to put onto the decal sheet. Because of the development cost of the kit I was relegated to design a very small decal. Being new to the "scene" and somewhat still stary eyed in my newfound posistion, I thought it would be cool to put my name on the decal. The three research analysts ( as we were called ) were Lloyd Jones ( airplanes and ships ) Jim Keeler and myself. I decided to name them also. I tried various combinations of the names ie. Paeth-Keeler-Jones, Jones-Paeth-Keeler etc. but decided that Keeler-Paeth and Jones had a certain "ring" to it. The engineering department did the original drawing of the decal and it was sent to the printer along with the order for a printing of 50,000. In the meantime, the art department commisioned Jack Lynnwood to draw the '55 showing a drag senerio. In his art work he depicted the decal sheet as it would be in the kit. As an aside, I also included the name of my immediate boss Jack Winslow on the decal. When the owner of Revell, Lew Glaser, saw the finished boxart he sorta went ballistic. No one at Revell should be in the picture. Because Keelers name was the first called out Lew figured he was the one who had designed the decal. He called Jim Keeler up to his office and demanded to know why he had done this action. Poor Jim didn't have an answer as this was the first he had known about it, ( I hadn't told him what I had done ). By the time Lew found out who was responsible, the box was being printed, the decal sheet was already finished and the cost to re-do everything was way too much to be realistic for change. As you can see, all of the reissues of the kit had a different decal sheet and the names were deleted. bob

Hans, some of the art work has been auctioned of with proceeds going to the model car museum in Salt Lake City. this took place at the GSL just completed this week end. There are four other works which may go to the slot car museum in Los Angeles, but this is not for sure. bob

I have never (almost) done an article for a magazine since my departure from Revell in 1970. I have, however, given many seminars on the use of the 'hot knife" over these past years. I will be giving another seminar at the GSL in less than two weeks. Maybe with a little pressure from the members here on MCM, Greg could take some pics for an article in an up-coming issue. Greg ????????????? bob

I have in the past, when painting the interior, taken some of the paint used on the body. Just add some talcom powder to the paint and it will become totally flat. I have always used a paint brush for the interiors because brush marks do not show and it is easier to create a two tone pattern if you desire. As mentioned before, after the paint is dry try rubbing the surface with your fingers. The oil on them will turn a "flat" into a semi gloss, similar to naugahyde. bob

My main claim to fame is having an imagination. I try to build at least one model every year with something or feature that has never been done before. A good example is the '60 Ford that I built about two years ago. It was designed to be an "air car", that is a car that floats instead of using wheels. I accomplished this by using four magnets, conceled of course. I am in the process, as we speak, building a Karman Ghia for the GSL in Salt Lake City. I gaurantee that no one has ever built one like this before. Hopefully it will be pictured, somewhere. bob

Just a short note to everyone: Many times when I have been mentioned on what I wrote or have given an opinion I have been refered to as Mr. Paeth. While I am old enough to be a father to most of you, you still have my permission to use my first name, Bob. ( along with my last name if you so desire ) I don't consider my self the absolute authority on anything so, a first name calling seems better to me. bob

You guys have made me very proud to part of this web site. I would be the first to agree that I am not always right on many subjects, but, apparently I can feel OK on this one. I have a very satisfied feeling this evening. Thank you people. bob

I haven't been a member for very long here, but, nevertheless I will state my opinion. This STUPID BICKERING that has been going on about some resin products has got to stop. When I joined MCM it was with the idea of forgetting other web sites that I had been active with. The enjoyment of participation had dwindled done to near zero because of negative coments from both the posters as well as the web masters. And please don't think that I always "go with the flow" on a web site. I agree with Jarius on letting this resin thing die. I would have locked the subject long ago. On the other hand, forgive me Greg, I do not agree with your opinion of Jeb. He may "march to a different drummer" but his participation, offerings and comments are all in good taste. One of the sites that I no longer have anything to do with insisted on grammer-correct sentences, perfect spelling, etc. This type of editing from this unnamed web site bordered on dictatorialism. We seem to have gone off on a tangent here. Lets get back to the light and fun postings that this web site has been famous for, OK ? bob

so that I might more understand what you people are talking about, I tried to avail my self to SLM. All I could get was a mention of a '57 Chevey model built for a contest in the past. I could find nothing in line with subjects or various threads concerning models and their building. What gives ? bob

Apparently, I have forgotten to inform the members here of the next BIG model car fest. This is the one sponsored by Scale Auto Builders Association ( SABA ). This event is being held in Portland, Oregon on the 21st of April. Location is the Elks lodge on 711 N.E. 100th ave. This is just one block North of N.E. Glisan and one block East of I-205. If you are coming on I-205 you will be taking the number 21-A exit either North or south bound. Hours are 9AM to 4PM. Awards will be given for peoples choice, best theme model and best classic. Theme is cars that are no longer made ( Studebaker, Olds, Nash, Plymouth, etc. ) The classic award is to honor a past member. There will be hourly drawings for door prizes, kits, posters, etc. Vendor tables are still being sold but we expect to have about 30, loaded with rare and desireable kits. Tables as of this date are $35.00. A table gets you in as an admission. To display up to 5 models we are asking $5.00. Additional models will be accepted at $1.00 each. General admission ( without models ) is $3.00. Parking is plentiful and free. Vendors will be helped to unload if asked, by members of SABA. There is no food available in the Elks lodge but there are many restaurants and fast food places within a very short walking distance. I f you need any further info please contact me at: jstbb@comcast.net bob

James, If I may interject on the subject of hobby shops ..............If you can make it up to Portland ( Beaverton, actually ) you could visit Tammies. This LHS has got to be the best one west of the Mississippi and maybe East of it too. What do you want ? they carry a full line of RC, trains of all scales, shelve after shelve of all scale offerings in cars, trucks, motorcycles. Manufacturers from all over the world. After market parts are available also. Paints, glues, tools, you name it. If you like, they also carry airplanes, ships, sci-fi, monsters and materials for dioramas, such as trees, bushes and buildings. do you get the feeling that this is a hobby shop for everyone ? bob

What I see is the result of a well diversfied modeler. Three builds and three different models. In a contest you would be competing in three classes instead of three models competing with each other. Any other "different" models lurking on the shelf ? bob

Quite a few of you fellow members know that I use a wood burning tool for just about everything I do. For real when I "try fit" a part I tack weld it into place not only to check for fit but also to see if it just looks right. If I want to simulate a welded seam I just continue with the same method that I used to start with. My wood burning tool has a tip that looks like the bow of a boat ( the pointy end to you land lubbers ). Using the point only I can make like a pretty good arc weld. If the end result is too rough I take the smooth side of the tip and smooth the weld down a bit. This method is instant dry and tends to give you a strong seam at the same time. bob

Hopefully, in a few weeks, I will be posting some art work that has never been seen before, ANYWHERE !!!!!!!!!! I have twelve original works of art that were drawn in the 1960's. Nine of them were proposals for box art for Revell, one looks like it might have come from GM and two look like they were drawn for Motor Trend magazine. The Revell proposals were all drawn by the late artist Jack Lynwood. This is the same artist who did all of the ship model art work as well as all of the airplane and car kit art. I am planning to offer them to E-bay for auction but I will be sure to post them here first. bob

All these guys waiting to see the finished product !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know you will have it finished in just over a month, right Art ? For some reason the number "4" comes to mind. Perhaps it is a date from some month ? May, for instance ? LOL bob

STAND BY : I have a collection of original art that was proposed for Revell boxes from the 1960's. I am considering an auction for them. Perhaps E-bay ? bob

TWO VOTES: #1 300 SL #2 Zeb ( for agreeing with my thought )

Gee, Larry, You missed the almost perfect name for your blog. You have one too many "S's" . LOL LOL LOL. Seriously I will look forward to your thoughts and ideas. bob

Hey, Jurm, welcome. I know you will like it here as much as I do. bob

First my thanks go out to all of you modelers who took the time to take and post the many pics of this annual meet. Being in the upper left hand corner of this great country of ours, it is difficult to participate in things on the East coast. Secondly, my hats is off the the modeler by the name of Bill Stillwagon. His custom ideas ( and workmanship ) are what I strive for. A wild imagination. KEEP IT GOING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bob

If you have a Home Depot near you, check out the small compressor that they have made by Campbell-Hausfeld. The price is $79.00 and it comes with a brad nailer as well. It has a double tank with a guage that tells you the presssure in the tanks and another guage that you use to regulate the air pressure. It also has extra fittings for tires, balls, etc. I bought one and it works as good as my big compressor and is a lot easier to handle. bob

Dave, just one, constructive, I hope, comment. Move the rear axle forward or the opening in the fender back a little ways. I think that you will achieve a better look by having the wheel center in the center of the opening. Other than that you're description of being WILD is correct. bob

I don't know Bob, you're method doesn't sound as much fun as mine. Seriously, I had forgoten the method you have described, and I promise when I want to do something dangerous, I will, at least stay away from altering spray cans. Besides, my wife has hidden all of the rags from me and I would have to use underware. bob

It has always been a goal of mine to help modelers in this great hobby of ours. I probably have more years of experience than anyone else which gives me even more incentive to spread my experiences. That said, here is my latest experiment in the name of model building. I wanted to use my airbrush to spray some primer on a model that I have been working on. I have been fighting the paint job on this model for about four weeks now and I have given up on a killer paint job. It is too big to strip as it is 1/16 scale. The last try came out so-so, so I thought I would sand out the bad spots and primer them to depict a car just being constructed. Not having any bottled primer, I decided to remove the primer from a spray can. I have tried, before, to spray from a can into a bottle with messy results. I reasoned that all I would have to do is to release the pressure in the can, drill a hole in the bottom and pour the paint into a bottle. Forty five minutes later I had two full fingernail polish bottles of primer. What took so long, you ask ? Well, the first thing that I did after I had the desired paint was to wipe down the hood, front fenders, grille and bumper of my Olds. Then I tackled the siding on the house. Next came the back stairs and the siding on the storage shed. Then I did the garbage can and the can that I store my emty pop cans and bottles in. Thought I was finished. Then I happened to notice the spots on my wifes bike. The paint had hit the frame, chain guard, front and rear fenders and the front tire. The spots on the concrete will just have to stay there. YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW FAST PAINT CAN COME OUT OF A SPRAY CAN WITH A VERY SMALL HOLE IN THE BOTTOM bob PS. forgot the time in wiping hands, face and glasses