Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

jwood

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jwood

  1. Thanks for all the nice comments. The conversion kit includes a chassis which has a narrow back end so that you can use the super wide pro street tires, an interior tub which also allows the pro street tires, and front & rear suspension parts which lowers the kit down in the weeds. A word of warning if you order the conversion kit. Perry's Resins takes a long time to get orders out so you may wait a year for your products.
  2. This is a build I finished a couple of weeks ago but the site was down so I wasn't able to post. I know there are a lot of '41 Willys builds that get posted so I wasn't going to create a post for this build. But, I was too excited not to because this build features a conversion kit that lowers the car. The conversion kit is from Perry's Resins and I had to wait over a year before the conversion kit arrived at my doorstep. I just about gave up hope that I would ever receive the order from Perry's Resins but after a year of waiting and about a dozen phone calls and emails I finally received my order. Some information on the build is listed below: Paint: House of Kolor Kandy Brandywine over a silver basecoat Wheels: Micro Nitro Tire Decals: Custom made using the DecalPro dry rub system Fittings: Detail Master Hope you enjoy!
  3. I'm sure these questions have been posed in one form or another many times already but I was not able to locate the information I am looking for using the search options. I have not used HOK paints before but I plan to use them on my next build. The more information I look for in regards to using the paints and what paints to use, it seems as though I get more confused. I plan on trying the Kandy Brandywine over an Orion Silver base coat. It looks like the only clear top coat that Black Gold offers on their website is the SG100. But, on the HOK website they list Clear SG100 as a base coat ONLY clear and they say that you should never use SG100 as a clear top coat, especially over a Kandy color. So I guess I have a couple of questions. - What HOK clear product should be used over their Kandy colors? - Does anyone know where to find general information about using their paints? Maybe Black Gold sends along information about using the HOK products such as when to apply the Kandy color over the base coat. When to apply the clear, etc. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!! Please! I don't want to waste a bunch of money in a botched HOK painting session. : ) Thank you, J jwood
  4. Thanks Roger, exactly the information I was looking for.
  5. For my next project I want to convert a 1964 Thunderbolt to a pro street machine. If anyone has built up a pro street version of this model car, what kit did you use for the back-half of the chassis? I think I have a 1966 Pro Street Nova kit in my stash that I could use but I was wondering if there's a beeter kit out there that I could use for the pro street chassis on the Thunderbolt? Thanks! JW
  6. Hey everyone! I'm currently building an all resin & white metal cast parts kit (first time building this type of kit). The white metal parts really prep up nice after some sanding and polishing but I'm having problems with the rims. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks for sanding and polishing white metal cast rims? It's pretty difficult trying to get sandpaper into such a small area but if I can figure out a technique I know these rims will clean up nice. If anyone has any experience with this or tips & tricks please share!! Thank you, JW
  7. I am going to be putting together the Model Factory Hiro Shelby Daytona Coupe in the near future and I was planning on ordering paint from Model Car World. I was wondering if anyone knows the name of the blue used on the Daytona Coupe’s body? If there is not a standard blue for the Daytona Coupe does anyone know what other people have used? Thanks, JW
  8. Thanks for the information! I was looking into the Comp Resin slicks. I may have to go that route.
  9. I'm working on the MPC 1/16 scale Street Charger. I would like to find treaded tires but I would settle for slicks. The tires that come with the kit just look a bit small (diameter). I want some tires that look a bit more aggressive. I remember seeing some slicks online somewhere that were 1/16 scale with a bigger diameter than the kit tires. I believe the kit tires are 1.5" in diameter and I was looking for something around 2". Thanks,
  10. Just wondering if anyone knows a good source for purchasing 1/16 scale aftermarket tires? I'm working on a 1/16 scale project and I don't care for the tires provided in the kit. Any suggestions? Thanks! JW
  11. That's a mean ride! Love the emblems, and stance, and paint, and..
  12. I said it was the first build completed since coming back to the hobby. I didn't mention all of the kits I started and didn't finish getting up to this point. LOL
  13. Thanks for all of the great comments! It’s always a bit intimidating posting builds in this forum because of all of the outstanding modelers in this community. Dragline – I will post some engine shots tonight. Engine detailing isn’t really my strong suit but I’ll post some shots. Also, if anyone hasn’t checked out the Donn Yost DVD’s for airbrushing model cars and tips & tricks for model cars you should do yourself a favor and order them. I used plenty of his tips in this build. jwood
  14. I know this AMT kit has been posted many times before but this is my first build completed after getting back into the hobby since I was a kid so I thought I would share. Some information on the project is listed below. Paint: Body: Testors Guard Red Interior: Testors Black Chrome Trim After Market Parts: Detail Master Distributor Detail Master Fittings AMT Dodge Super Bee Carburator & Tires JPS Pro Aluminum Rims Eduard Seat Belts from SMBC Tire Markings - Made on my computer & converted to dry rub transfers using Decal Pro System Aluminum gas cap, radiator cap & oil breathers from Model Car Garage Photo Etched body scripts and speaker grills from Model Car Garage Hope you all enjoy! Jwood
  15. I came across a free Jimmy Flintstone chopped '55 Nomad. I've only built a few resin kits in he past and I usually go with a different resin company but this was a free body. It's all ready chopped so I figured i would look nice lowered as well.
  16. I was just wondering if anyone knows of any tutorials or “how to’s†that are available for instructions on frame set-ups for lowering cars? I typically build street machine and pro street style model cars but I would like my next project to be an extreme low-rider. I’m sure I could hack my way through it but if anyone has any advice on proper frame modifications for lowering model cars it would be much appreciated! Thanks, J
  17. I've been building for about six months now (after a 15 year hiatus from the hobby) and I get crazy modelers highs! for the first three months, after returning to the hobby, I could barley sit still or go the speed limit when driving to my LHS for a new kit. It's been like Christmas every day for me. I only wish I would have gotten back into things a bit sooner. At least I'm, back into and can look forward to many more years of "modelers high"! Is there a support group for this yet?
  18. I'm about an 90 minutes away from Milwaukee (Fox Valley). If you can give me any info that would be great! I've been meaning to make a trip to Milwaukee to checkout some hobby stores. Thanks!
  19. Hey all, Just wondering if anyone knows of a good online resource for buying old, out of production and current model car kits? I did find a couple of sites doing a general search but I would like to buy from somone that has a known reputation. Any advice is much appriciated. Thanks, J
  20. I was hoping the builder would reply!! Thank you both for the advice. I have thought about cheking into the Citidal washes in the past. I might have to give them a try to see what I can come up with.
  21. I was just wondering what some tips or tricks are to detailing engines? When I say detailing I mean weathering the engine and making the chrome looked used like in the attached pic. Is there anything else other than chalks to use for effects like this . . . washes or special paints? I can't seem to achieve any level of realism when trying to make my model car engines looked used. Any advice? Thanks, J
  22. Wow! Thanks for the quick response!! It seems like the Super Bee kit works out well with a lot of other car kits. The box also comes with a lot of goodies! Thanks again for the help! J
  23. First I would just like to say hello! I am a new member and am just returning to the model car hobby. I built cars, trucks and armor until I was about 20 and then I took the next 20 years off. Now that I'm back into it I can't get enough. I think I've just about drained my retirement on tools and kits over the last four months. Also, I do have one question. I did look through your forum topics for tutorials on "pro streeting" a model car but was not able to locate any information. I understand the basic idea . . chop up the B frame and add on a pro street B frame. But, is there any data around as far as what pro street kits will work well with other kit bodies? I have a Monogram '55 Bel Air "Car Show" kit in my stash that I would like to pro street but I'm unsure on what other kit would work well with it. Any advice, help or information is appreciated! Thanks! J
×
×
  • Create New...