Psychographic
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Posts posted by Psychographic
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12 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
At one point in my career, I owned an engineering consulting company that worked with inventors, patent attorneys, and made presentation models for marketing and product development.
During that time, I had the opportunity to work with a vast array of materials and procedures.
It's been more than 20 years since I've done much of that kind of work, but THIS company's products and technical advice have always been outstanding.
https://www.polytek.com/product-type/polyurethane-liquid-casting-rubbers
I forgot about them, Polytek is about 15 minutes from me.I've been there before and they were very helpfull.
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If like most airbrush compressors that come with a trap, it has it located at the compressor or tank, you need to move the trap. The trap has to be far enough away from the source so it can cool and the water separates from the air. What is happening is the warm moist air passes right through the trap and as it cools in the line and airbrush the water separates from the air. What I do is run a 6foot line from my compressor to the moisture trap and then hook my airbrush hose the trap.
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I've had good luck casting resin parts using the silicone and resin from Aluminlite. I would like to try casting some black rubber like tires such as the ones Modelhaus used to sell. Do I need a special silicone to make the molds? What resin do I need to get to cast them?
Thanks for any help.
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If you are looking for an actual sign program, it's going to cost you some decent money, there are no free ones. My very old copy of Signlab was about $2500 some 30 years ago.
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2 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Unbuilt in the box is pretty rare, but there are some factory-assembled and painted shells for cheap; they should strip easily with 90% isopropyl alcohol.
Thank you! I just ordered one.
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On 4/23/2018 at 11:45 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:
Bill is this a hard to find item? I could see this being combined with an Indy car kit for something pretty wild.
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I caught a rerun one day last week and even with a few cool cars, I thought it was boring. It's not a bad show, it's just not for me.
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I originally thought the idea of the stages was a good idea. It would add some actual racing to the whole race and prevent drivers from hanging back for 3/4 of the race. Then I saw the caution would be thrown and it changed my mind. I HATE mandatory cautions! Other than wanting more commercials for TV, there is no need to stop the race. Score the stage and keep racing. No one is tuning in to watch an extra 15-20 laps of cars going 60mph with no ability to pass when they could be racing.
My suggestions to improve NASCAR Cup racing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Stock sheetmetal, add a spoiler, airdamn, and sideskirts. No more common templates. I honestly don't care if foreign cars are used, nor do i car if it's a front wheel drive body. Just make it recognizable, even if it was just in primer.
Instead of 500 lap or mile races. 3 heat races of about 50 laps, a 25 lap consi and a 200 lap/mile race. Leave Daytona as it is or was. It's their big race and should have tradition.
Single car teams only! Unfortunately I doubt it could be enforced.
Let the teams design their own drivetrains. Limit Cubic inches to keep the speeds in check.
Make blocking ILLEGAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If Indycar can do it, so can NASCAR.
Let drivers speak their minds. I'm tired of brown nosing drivers who are fined and afraid to say what they really mean or want.
Bring back more short tracks. They don't all need to be in the southeast either. There are too many 1.5 mile tracks.
The post below reminded me of the biggest thing I hate, the playoffs. Reward the team that had the best full season, not the luck of the last few races.
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38 minutes ago, afx said:
They do run the full course for the 24.
Thank you for correcting me. Now I AM interested!
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To me the Nurbergring is nothing special if they don't run the full course.
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I haven't lost interest, but shortly after my last progress pics, I've managed to screw up my right shoulder. It's to the point where some days it is almost useless and I'm in a LOT of pain.
The only thing I've got done is getting the bomb headlights assembled and done. The fins are very thin and I broke one while sanding it. If it was styrene it would be an easy fix, but working with epoxy was a bit of a challenge. It took 2 days to do about 15 minutes of work.
I think they look good and add to the theme without going overboard.
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You mean to tell me I didn't need to spend hours making almost the same thing?
I just could've bought one?
I'm loving this doc. I also like your proposed colors.
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Daddyfink wins the award for best post in this thread!
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10 hours ago, Joe Handley said:
It does, but I would be ok with a resin repop if available.
If you don't need a stock grille, you could always take the hump out of the hood yourself,
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Doesn't the wagon have the earlier grille and hood?
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I'll take the silver version above over the patina any day.
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If you go the the site of the shop that built this and look through their galleries, it does appear the engineering and quality of what's underneath is hidden by the ratty outside. You will also notice that some of the "rat" was added after the fabrication as it looks less unskilled work in the building stages.
Although I really dislike the idea of building something that looks poorly built ( sorry I don't and never will get it), I love the proportions he comes up with. I remember seeing the Camino a while back and thinking "that would be so cool if it was a finished ride". It did have the full fenders when I saw it and I liked it much better with them.
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Very cool John. I would love to see a couple of different angles of it. I love the machine guns, did you scratch build them?
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It amazes me sometimes when two people have the same idea.
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1 hour ago, Deano said:
It's Pat's model he used as a master.
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If you are spraying closer try going a little faster with your passes, or not pulling the trigger so far (dual action) or close the needle a bit (single action). You also might want to give more time between coats if you are laying on more paint.
To be sure it's not moisture from your line or compressor, run your AB wide open on the air and spray just air onto a piece of paper that will show water easily. Hold it longer than the amount of time you are spraying normally. You might be getting a little bit of water and not noticing it.
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Is the airbrush absolutely clean? If so you can rule out old paint.
Do you have any moisture in the air line? .
Are you sure your not getting contamination from your compressor?
If the above things are all good, that leaves solvents being trapped creating bubbles.
Can you give a detailed of what when and how you are spraying?
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A little progress. Once I had a little more info on the engine (thanks Bill!) I made a water pump for the engine. It's not like the stock one, but I think it's pretty obvious what it is.
I also have the upper suspension arms mounted. I cut a slot on each side of the fuselage and filled it with some 1/8" tubing that I sanded to a little more than 180 degrees. The 3/32" tubing on the end of the arm fits nicely into the 1/8" tube after a little filing. I need to figure out the spindles next. I'm also not sure if I want to leave the flaps on the front wings as they are a little "thick" looking. I'm worried that I'll have to bring the ends to much to a point in order for clearance when the wheels are turned. If I decide to take them off, I'm first going to cut them off carefully and see if they look good in the up position to look like a race car wing.
I just ordered these resin bombs. I'm going to make headlight buckets out of them and they will hang from the front wings. This works out well with using the drop axle as lower arms, as there is a pocket for the bomb to fit into. The only other plane related things on the outside will be the gunsight from the stock grille and the machine guns. I don't want to go overboard with the plane theme.
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22 minutes ago, Pat Minarick said:
Page 10 and 11 of the 2018 Cannonball community build. Like your going to make something rusty?, next you'll be building box stock and actual looking at instructions.
Now that is FUNNY!!!
I think they look good and add to the theme without going overboard.
I just could've bought one?
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Moisture from airbrush even with moisture trap
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by Psychographic
I wouldn't trust letting the compressor cool off as a remedy. On a very humid day it doesn't take long for moisture to build up. Don't forget you are compressing the air which means you are also adding more moisture. You shouldn't have a problem with two traps, but as i said unless you move the first one, it's pretty much useless and it's easy to forget to check the traps. Relying on just that small one at the airbrush is risky. You are in Florida, not exactly a cool or dry place.