andy12646

Just purchased a food dehydrator for drying paint. It's a Costzon and the food area is (rectangular) 12.6 x 9.8 x 5.1. I thought the configuration would lend itself well for this purpose. Anyway, having never use one before, I would like to know what, if anything, is used to support the parts for drying? Support material ie: plastic, wood, metal? Also, any tips and or concerns using the dehydrator would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, Guys! I plan on trying each of the suggested methods. I want to get results like that in the photos. I read somewhere on the forum that suggested clear coating the chrome item before applying a wash. I tried that once but the clear coat seemed to somewhat "fill" the low areas where I wanted the wash to accumulate. Any Thoughts?

I like the look of a chrome grill that has a black wash but I can't seem to get consistent coverage. They always turn out rather blotchy (is that a word). I use acrylic black paint. Always flat but just recently I tried semi-gloss. It didn't seem to help. I always apply, remove and re-apply until I get somewhat close to desired results but still not as good as I believe it could be. Am I setting my goals too high? Is it the acrylic paint which I mix with water? I tried mixing with alcohol once but with the same results. I haven't tried any commercial washes yet. What would you guys recommend? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Great information, Guys. VERY helpful! Thank you! I'll keep trying.

I decided to make my own custom decals for a recent build. I created the decals using Microsoft Word to scale the text and to use the various colors available with the program. My problem is that, when the decal is applied, the text isn't heavy enough. It's as through the text is opaque and doesn't stand out from the painted surface. I'm using an HP Inkjet printer and Testors clear decal paper. The paper doesn't specify that is is for a Laserjet or Inkjet. And I did seal the printed decals with a light clear coat. Does anyone have any input? Sure could use some help!

FYI: Went the Pinstripe tape route. Worked GREAT! However, I still would like to try printing decals. Just not delicate stripes.

Thanks, Guys! I haven't ruled out masking and painting. Just would have to build up my nerve!

AMT kit #6926. Lower body racing stripe decals were horrible in every way! Gave up. Now looking for a QUALITY replacement. Any suggestions? I found some Mustang GT 350 stripe decals that appear to be the same width but the length would definitely be a problem when removing the GT 350 logo. I thought of trying to make them myself but not sure if my ink-jet printer would work. Also, thought of using 1:1 auto pin stripe tape. I would have to trim the width a tad to make them appear to be in scale. ANY input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance as I'm not sure how to respond to your suggestions.

I've been thinking of building the 1/16 scale Hawaiian Funny Car but would like something different. Does anyone know if the Willie Borsch Charger decals (1/16 scale) available from Model Roundup will fit without any difficulty? How about other decals available? Resin body? Your suggestions would be appreciated. THX!

That's it! Please contact me at billndeb_hlc6@yahoo.com or Bill at 419-206-8625. THANK YOU!

I'm planning on Arnie Beswicks 64 GTO for my next build, however, I can't seem to find any information on interior color. Can anyone help?

Does anyone know where I can get a decal sheet for the Revell Tasca Ford Thunderbolt?

What spray adhesive would you recommend for applying aluminum foil to a model? Also, if I screw up in the application, what would you recommend for cleaning the part (model) before starting the process over? I'm trying to learn this technique and it seems not difficult if your VERY careful and the RIGHT materials are used. Any input would be greatly appreciated and respected. Thanks for all your replies!

Does anyone know the proper color for the engine block of the Reher-Morrison/Lee Shepherd 83 Pro-Stock Camaro?

I recently purchased a Revell '57 Chevy Bel Air kit. I would like to change it into a Chevy Model 210. To do this I need to remove the appearance of the rear quarter panel insert which is molded into the body. This is the panel that defines the Bel Air from the 210. Any advice other than sand paper and patience? Also, there is a perforated metal panel behind the grill on '57's. This detail is also molded into the grill/front bumper which is all chrome plated in this kit. I would prefer to simulate this panel being removed. Any advice? My other options are to paint this entire area flat black or use a wash to highlite this area (last choice). Not sure as to what problems there might be in the paint or wash over the chrome. This will be my first build in many years. I've never used a wash. Any advice, tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you! That should keep me busy!

I am recently retired and thought I would get back into model car building for a hobby. Built many models in my pre and early teens which I truly enjoyed. However so many things have changed in fifty years that I have many questions. Here are a couple. I am interested in BMF. I have never had anything like this available in years past. Where can it be purchased? How is it applied?( I assume it is self-adhesive) How much overlap is recommended during application. What is the best method of burnishing? Trimming? This may sound dumb but is it applied after the model is completely finished and clear coated? Also, where is a good place to purchase parts such as rims, tires, engines, etc? (1/24 - 1/25 scale) I'm just getting started again and have no scrap parts from previous models. Sorry for the length of these questions. I have many more to post. Thx, Andy12646