Southsider

The extent of their description: "There will be two classes (1) box stock class; model is built using original kit parts only and (2) unlimited; 50% original kit parts." I interpret Class 1 as paint it however you want, but add something like wiring your distributer and you're in Class 2. I have no idea where flocking or different decals fall. I'm new to this and was going to enter just for fun, I just don't want to do it wrong.

Can you use your own paint schemes or do you have to follow the instructions?

I have not yet posted my first build, but I probably will once I get it done. I'm one of those guys that hasn't built a model in 25-30 years and is picking it back up. Back then in my teens, I know I wasn't very good, didn't have a ton of money to buy the good materials and such, impatient youth, etc. I remember how fun it was and now I'm trying to get my kids into it. If/when I post some pics of a build, I would totally welcome criticism. I hesitate to put a but in that sentence, however I feel it needs to be there. I like criticism if it's accompanied by some helpful advice. Simply telling me "You've got some bleed through on that line." is probabaly not the most helpful statement. I would think if somebody thinks enough of themself to critique somebody elses work, they know how it could have been done better. Perhaps a reply like "You've got some bleed through on that line, next time you should try..." that is infinitely more helpful and I would love to hear things like that. It also benefits those of us that are using this site for helpful tips and advice. On numerous occasions, I've been looking for some tips on certain things. I will come across posts where somebody may make one of these negative comments, and I'm left wondering, "OK, he's having the same problem and you noticed it, why not tell how it can be done better."

If you have a smaller piece, or even the body, whats the best process for painting multiple colors on it? I'm using Acrylics, both handpainting and using a single-action airbrush. I have some pieces that need two different colors, and I keep messing them up. I waited a few days to tape off on a freshly painted surface, and still that surface (a semi-gloss if that matters) is now messed up. At first it looked as though it may have been some tape residue (using Tamiya masking tape). But after trying to clean it off, it turns out that the shine seems to be taken from the paint. But not in a uniform way like turning the semi-gloss to a flat. On the body, I painted it and it looked pretty good (first model in 27 years). Then I taped off a couple areas where I needed to put some black down arounf the windows and front wheel well. When I peeled the tape away, turns out I had done a poor job witht he tape and had some bleeed through that I needed to clean, which caused me to have to celan it up and now I have to re-do the body. I don't want to have the same problem now with those black areas, I would like to tape them off before I re-shoot the body. This got me thinking on if I should have done those features first before dong the body color. It really stunk that I messed up the body just because of some details so perhaps I did not follow a standard procedure most of you do.

Hello all, Not your typical "how much should I thin my paint?" question. A few decades ago when I was a youngster and built models I always hand painted with a brush. I remember always being jealous of the kids who could afford an airbrush because their models always looked better than mine. Well, I'm picking up the hobby again and am building my first model in probably 25 years. I bought an airbrush and I am really getting the hang of it I believe. I've been using the Tamiya arcylics and I am pretty satisfied. I would like to transfer the paint to more user friendly bottles like the Faskolor type bottles my RC Lexan paint comes in. They make it pretty easy to squirt a few drops of paint out and use just what you need. I realize I could just use an eye dropper with the Tamiya bottles, but I'm looking for less cleanup (cleaning that dropper will get annoying imo). My plan is to buy the empty plastic bottles and just dump my Tamiya paints into their new homes. Easy enough. But then I thought "What if I thin them too, then I can just thin them once and they're ready to shoot whenever I need them?" One nice side benefit to this would be I could empty the bottle into a new plastic bottle, then put some thinner into the old bottle to swish around and dump into the new, thus not losing to much of my paint in the transfer (assuming the storing can be done of course). I seem to remember reading somewhere that thinning the paints and not using them right away, the thinner will break down the paint over time. However, I've watched some videos and it looks like some people do this practice I'm thinking about. Also, some paints come "pre-thinned" or so I'm told (Faskolor). So if those are sold thinned then I presume they don't break down over time so my idea will work. Wall of text I know, but I wanted to be thorough in my explanation for the experts here. Thanks in advance for any advice.