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Hey everyone, I recently got my hands on two versions of the TECHING DM121 1:12 cutaway turbofan engine – one 3D printed, and one full metal. I’ve built both, played around with them a bit, and also took some photos and short clips to compare. Thought I’d share my experience and hear what you guys think – if it were you, which one would you pick? (3D printed Version) (Metal Version) The 3D printed version is really light and easy to carry around, which makes it perfect if you want to take it to a club or classroom demo. It’s also more forgiving during assembly – small misalignments are easy to fix with some sanding. It runs quietly, too, which is nice if you’re showing it off to people without scaring them with mechanical noise. There’s also lots of potential for painting or customizing it afterward, so it’s fun to experiment with. stirlingkit-dm121 plastic video-2-metal-vs-3d-printed-which-one-s-right-for-model-enthusiasts.mp4 The metal version, on the other hand, feels super solid in hand. Once it’s fully assembled, it really looks like a proper engine on your shelf. The edges are sharp, the shine under the light is beautiful, and the mechanical sound when it runs is far more immersive. Honestly, for what you get, the metal version isn’t even that expensive – I was pleasantly surprised it doesn’t cost a lot more than the 3D printed one, considering how premium it feels. It’s definitely the type of kit you’d want to keep in a collection or display long term. 启动展示.mp4 For maintenance, the printed version benefits from some sanding, primer, and paint to get a nice finish, while the metal one mostly just needs occasional wiping and a bit of lubricant on the gears or shafts. In terms of budget and purpose, the 3D printed kit is more affordable and great if you want to tinker with it or bring it to a demo, while the metal version feels like the “final form” you’d proudly put on display. Now I’m torn between the two. The metal one looks amazing on a shelf, but the 3D printed one is fun to play with and much easier to carry around. If you could only keep one, which would you go for? Do you care more about the weight and realism, or the lighter, more customizable nature of the printed kit? Also, if anyone has tips for sanding or painting the 3D printed parts, or tricks for maintaining the metal version, I’d love to hear them. And if you have any ideas on the DM121, like adding lights, custom paint jobs, or stands, please don‘t hesitate to tell me.

I first saw these parts a while ago, but they were never in stock. At first I was only interested in the mesh for the trumpets of the Ford DFV to replace the solid, horrible things that came with the kit. Sometime later, I noticed the ignition/funnels detail kit and bought them both a couple months ago. I needed a break from my headache Benetton B192 kit, so it occurred to me to just pop these in after I had reason to look at how I did something on the Lotus. Not many parts... a simple and easy quick win to pause the frustration. I've read/seen a few forum blogs about MFH kit builds, all the various pluses and minuses of the metal parts, questionable fitment, etc. It would seem from my experience with this "quick win" that I need better glasses. Surely those other MFH threads talked about the prep work required. Here's my first encounter with MFH: These particular detail kits are super simple, not much to them: The parts felt a little clunky. For all the props directed at MFH, they seemed "cheap." And the fit was way worse than I would ever expect from a heralded manufacturer like MFH. So out comes various files — sandpaper is next to useless, it seems — to fix all those fitment problems and mold leftovers on every, each and every one, of parts. What I missed in all that I've seen about MFH builds is how careful you need to be when filing. It's like an amateur haircut, a little more on this side to even it out, and then back again, until you're bald. This is all the parts to paint with a couple coats of Tamiya TS primer (and proof of life for the B192). It says on the can of primer that it's good for plastic and metal. I've always thought that a dubious claim that they make a metal primer. It's that, or they're just gouging us by selling a metal primer. I'm going with the dubious claim theory. This is what one part looked like after two coats of Tamiya primer, two coats of Tamiya semi-gloss black lacquer, and the handling required to append the addon styrene (more about that later). Even after repainting and almost no handling, paint has come off corners and whatnot. The fact that little of all this will be visible (and still we put in the hours!) makes it less frustrating, but I can't help thinking I got something wrong. I washed the parts with dishwashing liquid and even took a brass brush to some of them. As for the brass brush, I must have misunderstood a modeler when I read that he used a Dremel with a brass wire brush. I did that and regretted it. I had to go back over the parts I used it on to return some of the detail that the wire brush muted. It left the surfaces looking pitted. Shiny bolt heads were now dull and the like. Lesson learned, but I'd like to know the correct procedure for prepping and painting metal parts.