Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning

[aurfalien]

Guys, stay on point here. This is critical work that the Earth is depending on.

Tnx!

[jwrass]

Brian,

I'm glad you are you using the paletting the process to load your brushes! If the brush doesn't have a properly load of paint you will never get great results.

Don't get to hung up on reduction with brushing and don't premix. Dip your brush into the paint and start paletting if you feel to much drag just dip the end of the brush into your thinner and return to the palette and work that thinner into the mix, as you practice this process you will aquire a feel for how the paint should be for what you are trying to do, detail work a little thinner, larger parts thicker.

I personally would use Talklon brushes as the are not to stiff or to soft. I use these with water based, oil, urethanes. Taklon is a awesome all around go to brush! I use natural brushes for much of my work but they don't work well with water based paint, they turn to mush.

re-tard-er: To cause to move or proceed slowly; delay or impede: to be delayed ( I hope this clears that up!!!! Did we really have to go to dark side with the retarder comment. Jeez)

Retarder used to be commonly used back in the lacquer 1:1 refinish days to get the paint to flow longer and to eliminate a condition called Blushing which is a condition that happens on humid days, The basic premise is that as you spray the material the water vapor in the air gets mixed with the paint and you will have a cloudy appearance to the top coat ( it looks like steamy windows) the moisture get trapped because the lacquer dries so fast, This condition can usually be buffed out however a bit a retarder can help on a really humid day. I cringe every time I use it as it can open a real can of worms of paint problems. When I had to use this I would add it in small increments like a 1/2 cap from the can to a qt of paint this is a very small amount of what is recommended. I personally would not use this process and if I did I would add it in very small amounts.

A little tip for storing brushes. Always oil you brushes after you have cleaned them, place the oil on the brush, shape the brush with your fingers and lay them flat. I know I know WHAT ABOUT FISH EYES. When you go to use that brush again double clean it with mineral spirts ( I use shot glasses ) you will have a perfectly shaped brush ready to go and no fish eye problems There are brush oils that you can buy but 3&1 works great.

Try this process with one of you brushes and use it on a regular basis, in a very short time you will see great improvement on how your brush handles.

Keep swinging the brush brothers!

Jimmy "RASS"

[aurfalien]

Wow, thanks jwrass, very very cool info.

I'll look for that type of brush. I plan to brush a 1" x 6" panel to see what happens. I stopped off in a Blicks Art Supply and didn't like it much, will hit Michaels tomorrow.

Would you get the white ones;

http://www.michaels.com/M10133609.html

Or the beige ones;

http://www.michaels.com/craft-smart-variety-brush-set-golden-taklon-3-piece/10408283.html#start=31

Yup, I'm getting hung up in premix phase and will instead dip in the pot, then thin when needed. I just don't like a dirty thinner is all. Perhaps I'll poor /dropper some thinner in my palette and dip from there.

I also read that some one analyzed Tamiya Thinner and found it to be a simple blend of alcohol, water and fragrance. Now the devil is in the details with regards to what parts of each

Still I am looking forward in testing Vallejo. If it works as good as the Intrawebs say, then it would simplify workflow and be a joy to brush paint. I mean ready to brush paint out the bottle, wow man! No stupid toothpicks/etc to mix with, no stupid paper towels as I prefer keeping a very clean work area.

My test will be to brush paint a Monogram 904 or a Cobra body using Vallejo, that is once I spray on a good primer.

Edited April 29, 2015 by aurfalien

[jwrass]

Brian,

I'm surprised you didn't like Dick Blick! I have never been to one of their stores but I have been buying brushes from them for forty years. They make some great liners and striping brushes, Again I have never been in a store. But the Dick Blick line of custom paint brushes are awesome.

I have a few of the white brushes but don't care for them (to stiff for me) I prefer the Golden Taklon (still a little stiff but if you use them enough and oil them they take on their own personality and are a great brush)

When I dip into my thinner container to get the right consistency I very rarely leave any color behind! It's just like dipping your toes in the pool! Not a cannon ball If you are still concerned have one pot for light colors and one for darker colors. Shot glasses (glass) work great and you can get them the dollar store!!!!! for well, a dollar.

Keep working on those paletting skills!!!!! No dip and paint. Get the shape of the brush by dragging through the paint! Your brush paint skills will be so much better and when you see that you can shape the brush to meet the technique you are looking for, the brush will become your friend!

Jimmy "RASS"

[aurfalien]

Well its not that I didn't like em, its that I had no coupons like what Michaels offer which are simply killer. Michaels even carries models etc...

[jwrass]

Brian,

Hobby Lobby and Michaels carry basically the same brushes and in many varieties. Their brush sections are second to none and you can use your coupons! Golden Taklon!!!!!

[aurfalien]

One thing to note, so I decided to use a brush full of Liquitex Flow Aid rather then Tamiya Thinner and hmmm, ... not bad.

The paint actually flows much better and doesn't dry as fast. I mixed it in a palate with a few drops of paint, say 3 off a tooth pick.

The Tamiya Thinner contains alcohol so the paint dries very quickly depending on how much is added. Or so I've noticed.

At any rate, still looking forward to a more simplified work flow. Plus my wife loves hobbies and crafts and she may want to paint various things. I imagine she would find Vallejo easier to deal with than Tamiya. That is if practice holds up to theory.

[jwrass]

Brian,

I'm happy to see that you are experimenting with your paints. I.E. Reducers, Mixes.

On all my 1:1 paint work I record all components I put into the paint. This helps me match a custom finishes should it show up for repairs latter, now I'm not going to say you have to do this with models. However while experimenting with brush paint materials log percentages and highlight the one that works best for the material you are using.( A recipe book if you will) Remember not all paints are created equal!!! One color may need more or less reducer to get the results you are looking for. Palette, Palette, Palette!!!! Become one with the brush

Jimmy "RASS