Use Of Filler/putty

[Rudy]

I just tried my hand at using putty for the first time. I was filling the gaps betwen the front fascia and rear fascia/bumper on my 69' Mustang "Gas Rhonda" funny car. The only hobby shop I know of nearby is a sparsely stocked one. I bought some Squadron brand white putty. I now see that it says "fast drying" on it as I look at the tube. I was waondering what brand you guys use, where you get it, rough cost, etc. I was gonna ask why it dried so ###### fast but that question has been answered. It was a little too thick for what I was trying to do, so therefore I had to use a bit much to get the gaps filled, now I have ben sanding ALOT to get the extra off. What kind of spreader do you use? I just used an old razor blade, then got fed up with that and used my finger. Any tricks for sanding near body lines and tight inside corners? Such as between the molded in headlight (funny car body) and upper fender "Eybrow"? I know with 1:1 body filler you can mix it thinner, or thicker, to dry fast, or to take a while. etc. I may just end up getting some bondo. Any tips would be very helpful and greatly appreciated!!!

Thank You,

-Rudy

Edited February 22, 2008 by Rudy

[Raul_Perez]

I just tried my hand at using putty for the first time. I was filling the gaps betwen the front fascia and rear fascia/bumper on my 69' Mustang "Gas Rhonda" funny car. The only hobby shop I know of nearby is a sparsely stocked one. I bought some Squadron brand white putty. I now see that it says "fast drying" on it as I look at the tube. I was waondering what brand you guys use, where you get it, rough cost, etc. I was gonna ask why it dried so ###### fast but that question has been answered. It was a little too thick for what I was trying to do, so therefore I had to use a bit much to get the gaps filled, now I have ben sanding ALOT to get the extra off. What kind of spreader do you use? I just used an old razor blade, then got fed up with that and used my finger. Any tricks for sanding near body lines and tight inside corners? Such as between the molded in headlight (funny car body) and upper fender "Eybrow"? I know with 1:1 body filler you can mix it thinner, or thicker, to dry fast, or to take a while. etc. I may just end up getting some bondo. Any tips would be very helpful and greatly appreciated!!!

Thank You,

-Rudy

Rudy,

For small scratches and sink marks, I use BONDO brand glazing and spot putty. It comes in a 4.5oz tube for about $4. When necessary, I thin it with Testors liquid plastic cement, #3502. It is also prone to shrink if you put it on too thick. For any serious filling or shaping, I use a combination of plastic strip and super glue.

Good luck,

[MrObsessive]

I use Dynatron Putty-Cote which is a Bondo product. It's a two part mix like Bondo, but has some plastic in it which I've found handy when trying to attach trim or something on top during the build. I use whatever's handy when spreading the putty-------toothpicks for small areas, up to plastic knives for the larger stuff.

I strongly recommend staying away from anything Squadron when doing bodywork. That stuff is too unpredictable in the long run as it has a tendency to still be shrinking 6 months after the model is done!

Here's a few pics of the Dynatron I used on the roof of the '55 Ford I'm working on now...........

For getting in those tight corners and such, I use a riffler file for that..............

Excellent for opening up molded in grilles that are recessed in the body. To clean up exterior work, I just fold up various grades of sandpaper as tight as I can to get at the really tight corners. Riffler files can be picked up at a good hardware store...............or they can be found here.

[Raul_Perez]

Hey Bill, does the Dynatron Putty-Cote stick to raw plastic, or do you have to prime first?

[MrObsessive]

Raul, I've found that it'll stick better if the plastic is primed and dried thoroughly.

It feather edges great and I've not had a problem with shrinkage. It's dry and workable within a half hour------although for big jobs (such as that Ford roof) I've let it sit overnight.

[CAL]

I use Testors Pro Red, which is basically auto-body glaze, for bigger jobs Milliput, white.

I, too, would strongly recommend staying away from Squadron Green or White. I found it very hard to work with, also very aggressive on plastic i.e. if you use a lot it can distort and or melt plastic, hard to sand, and hard to sculp and shape.

Testors Pro Red and Milliput is light years better.

Edited February 23, 2008 by CAL

[Raul_Perez]

Raul, I've found that it'll stick better if the plastic is primed and dried thoroughly.

It feather edges great and I've not had a problem with shrinkage. It's dry and workable within a half hour------although for big jobs (such as that Ford roof) I've let it sit overnight.

Thanks, Bill!! I'll give it a try on my next custom build. I was a professional bodyman for 10 years, repairing mostly major collision damage, so I've used my fair share of Bondo. I've just never tried this particular product.

Regards,

[MrObsessive]

I ran across Dynatron by accident.....years ago I was looking for Evercoat Eurosoft(sp?). That stuff was as hard to find as hens teeth around here, so one day I went into a local autobody supply asking if they could order Evercoat.

The fellow working there said he couldn't, but he recommended the Dynatron, and I've been sold ever since. I've used regular bondo in the past, but as I mentioned before, it seems as though the Dynatron has some plastic in it which makes it nice to add styrene trim on.

Here's another example of such on the '55 Ford................

Here's a pic of the can of Dynatron....................

[Rudy]

Thank you very much for the help guys. I wish i would have asked before applying the squadron product. It was a real p.i.t.a to work with, that is for sure. I will have to get a set of those files too. They look real handy for a variety of jobs. Having no place to paint right now isnt helping. I only have a 1 car garage, and that has my 1:1 freshly painted mustang in there, so no painting allowed!! I cant wait for summer time. I hate michigan winters.

Thanks again, Rudy

[Raul_Perez]

Thank you very much for the help guys. I wish i would have asked before applying the squadron product. It was a real p.i.t.a to work with, that is for sure. I will have to get a set of those files too. They look real handy for a variety of jobs. Having no place to paint right now isnt helping. I only have a 1 car garage, and that has my 1:1 freshly painted mustang in there, so no painting allowed!! I cant wait for summer time. I hate michigan winters.

Thanks again, Rudy

Hey Rudy, when the weather gets too bad to paint model cars, I switch over to military and Sci-Fi stuff. As long as you can get it out of the can, flat paints always look good!

[CAL]

Thank you very much for the help guys. I wish i would have asked before applying the squadron product. It was a real p.i.t.a to work with, that is for sure. I will have to get a set of those files too. They look real handy for a variety of jobs. Having no place to paint right now isnt helping. I only have a 1 car garage, and that has my 1:1 freshly painted mustang in there, so no painting allowed!! I cant wait for summer time. I hate michigan winters.

Thanks again, Rudy

I use one of the riffler files from the squadron set in particular more than any other tool. It's a must have.