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Posted

No matter what you use, a good test to see if the stuff is clean, is to put a piece of masking tape on the resin casting. If it still has any residue on it, the tape usually won't stick well. Now, I'm not guaranteeing it's clean, but if the tape won't stick....IT AIN'T ! Not much worse than priming a body and having the primer flake off, because it's not clean IMHO

Posted

It does take a while to strip lacquer paint with Super Clean.

It doesn't actually affect the lacquer at all. It dissolves the primer, & then the lacquer comes off in sheets.

What type of primer was used probably will have a lot more bearing on how well the Purple Power works than the paint itself.

Scratching the paint in a few areas may help the Purple Power get under the paint & help speed things up a bit.

Steve

Posted

Thanks.

Is Super Clean more effective on old solid colors and metallics? So far i only used Tamiya primer,and i do not know what primer

was used on those old restore objects.


No matter what you use, a good test to see if the stuff is clean, is to put a piece of masking tape on the resin casting. If it still has any residue on it, the tape usually won't stick well. Now, I'm not guaranteeing it's clean, but if the tape won't stick....IT AIN'T ! Not much worse than priming a body and having the primer flake off, because it's not clean IMHO

Good tip. The Purple Power does work very well on resin for taking off the mold release,and does not damage it.

Posted

I think a lot depends on what type of paint was used.

The old model paints used on most of the old annuals is no match for the Super Clean, whether a solid or a metallic.

My experience with most of the old annuals that I have stripped is they come out squeaky clean within a couple of hours.

Some paints can be more stubborn & some can be literally unaffected.

The biggest problem I have had are flat paints, especially flat black.

Luckily, most of the built ups that I have purchased have been painted with light coats of enamel with no primer.

This '67 Bonneville was painted with metallic gold & came clean in a very short period of time. Maybe 4 hours.

The '61 Ford was a little more stubborn. The metallic green took a couple of days to dissolve.

The '59 Pontiac's solid green almost began to melt away before my eyes! within an hour it was as squeaky clean as new!

Steve

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Posted (edited)

Great results. I have had success with some of the kits i stripped,those where similar to the flat metallic you post pictures on.

The chassis,often flat black,and i have a 64 Belvedere and 71 Formula 400 in solid color where the PP looks to have no effect.

I should consider get Super Clean,from your experience and what i can see i think it is a bit more effective then Purple P.

There is a certain satisfaction to clean these when you see how nice they usually are under the awful paint.

Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Edited by om617
Posted

Great results. I have had success with some of the kits i stripped,those where similar to the flat metallic you post pictures on.

The chassis,often flat black,and i have a 64 Belvedere and 71 Formula 400 in solid color where the PP looks to have no effect.

I should consider get Super Clean,from your experience and what i can see i think it is a bit more effective then Purple P.

There is a certain satisfaction to clean these when you see how nice they usually are under the awful paint.

Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Thanks Tommy.

I'm not sure if the Purple Power vs. Super Clean is really your problem.

From what I understand, The two are pretty much the same thing.

Although, I cant verify that. I've never used Purple Power.

It could just be the particular paint used on those kits.

Occasionally, you'll run into something painted with some odd ball paint that just doesn't seem to respond to any stripper, but I guess anything is worth trying.

I agree, nothing brings a sigh of relief like checking back on a body in the tub of purple stuff & seeing the paint melting away! :)

Steve

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