Brett Barrow Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) I'm really interested to know how important the clear and polishing is - have you tried SS over Alclad without the clear/polishing? What percentage of improvement would you say it has?I'd use clear even over black. I think it creates another level of reflections or something that enhances the effect. I've seen examples of clear over black and they just looked better than black alone. You have to use clear over the alclad aluminum because it's not glossy by itself. I like the silver base because you don't get dark spots or a weird color if your coverage is spotty. You also use far less product, with a silver base it's literally one or two passes. Believe it or not, the spraying at an angle makes the biggest improvement of all of it for me. I always would get spots where it turned out perfect, but overall was not pleased. Then I started seeing mentions of it (I think Gregg wrote an article in the mag about it) and it clicked, those spots where it was perfect must have been where it was hitting at an angle. It's like magic when you get it right. Edited June 8, 2015 by Brett Barrow
fseva Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I'd use clear even over black. I think it creates another level of reflections or something that enhances the effect. I've seen examples of clear over black and they just looked better than black alone. You have to use clear over the alclad aluminum because it's not glossy by itself. I like the silver base because you don't get dark spots or a weird color if your coverage is spotty. You also use far less product, with a silver base it's literally one or two passes. Believe it or not, the spraying at an angle makes the biggest improvement of all of it for me. I always would get spots where it turned out perfect, but overall was not pleased. Then I started seeing mentions of it (I think Gregg wrote an article in the mag about it) and it clicked, those spots where it was perfect must have been where it was hitting at an angle. It's like magic when you get it right. Brett, I like the idea of going with a silver base, but not necessarily Alclad - it's too expensive, and now I have a supply of AK Extreme Chrome, which will make an excellent base for the SS (it doesn't do any better as a "chromer", but it is more durable - was able to apply Tamiya Wax, and buff it like crazy - only got a little bit off, and the most at the edges, where it was already super-thin). Would you believe I have done the angle thing for a couple years now, and I do know that certain spots seem to get it just right - like on the curved bumper end, where the spray doesn't reach too well if you're going back and forth over the breadth of the part. Just wish I could get that effect all the time... however, it would still not be "kit chrome".
fseva Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I've had good results with Spaz Stix. All the chrome on this model is done with it. Very nice, Harry! Any tips to pass along on using SS?
Harry P. Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Very nice, Harry! Any tips to pass along on using SS? Not really. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I spray it on like any other paint... maybe a touch less, though. I seem to get the best "chrome" effect using less of it... seems like if you lay it on too thick the "chrome" effect isn't as strong. Here's that same model earlier in the building process... '
fseva Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Not really. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I spray it on like any other paint... maybe a touch less, though. I seem to get the best "chrome" effect using less of it... seems like if you lay it on too thick the "chrome" effect isn't as strong. Here's that same model earlier in the building process... ' Looks even better, here! It's funny you should mention that you perhaps use less paint... I believe the instructions say that you should lay it on pretty heavy - to the point where there's "paint dust" visible! Then, after allowing some cure time, you go back and gently buff the powder away...
Harry P. Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Looks even better, here! It's funny you should mention that you perhaps use less paint... I believe the instructions say that you should lay it on pretty heavy - to the point where there's "paint dust" visible! Then, after allowing some cure time, you go back and gently buff the powder away... I've never tried it that way. Maybe I should, just to see which way gives better results. But either way I'm a big fan of the stuff. It may not be the equal of kit plating, but I'd say it's 90-95%. If I didn't say otherwise, I'd bet nobody would suspect that the "chrome" on my Rolls is actually spray paint!
Pavel A. Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) I'm not sure what you mean by 2K Clearcoat... I don't think it's available in the states... Would any lacquer clear work the same way, or have you only tried it with the 2K Clear? After you're completely done, does it withstand handling any better than the way Spaz Stix recommends? Hmm, So. For good results for the aplication of Spaz Stix (so as Alclad) you need black, gloss and dust free surface. The first I apply black colour (doesn´t matter which sort - best is for example flat black from Tamiya), than I apply 2k clearcoat (you can buy it at each color or painthouse, it is clearcoat for real cars). 2K clarcoat is the because you can apply it on each sort (type) of colors. Its going harder on base of chemical reaction. I can say simple, 2k is not aggresive to colors, so as decals. Why I apply 2k over black? Because it makes real "black mirror", what is necessary before Spaz or Alclad apply. Here are some photos, how I make it... I use 2k Ivat, it is Italian products used by Ferrari. ...And if it is prepared surface like this, than I apply Spaz (surface is not polished on the photo) And here it is apply on real car colors. Red and black are nitrocolor, blue is waterbased color (pure water for thinnig! no stink!), and chrom is Spaz. Red and blue were matt after aplication, The high gloss makes 2k... Edited June 8, 2015 by Pavel A.
Quick GMC Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 this is Alclad over gloss black, THEN lacquer clear, then Alclad. And here is the same color over nothing but a plastic spoon. For me, the black only changes the hue of the chrome, nothing to do with the shine. If the surface is ultra smooth and glossy, regardless of color, your Alclad will be also
om617 Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 Here is Alclad rattle can over Tamiya TS14 gloss black. The surface was not ideal (My own fault)
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